Hangers Way 50k Ultra Marathon

When: June 23rd 2024
Start: Alice Holt Forest, Farnham, GU10 4LS
Finish: Queen Elizabeth Country Park, Gravel Hill, Horndean, PO8 0QE
Distance: 50.4 km (31 miles)
Elevation change: +965m / -951m. Net -14m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Hangers Way, The Shipwrights Way, South Downs Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 22, 224, East Hampshire Circular Cycle Route
Maps:
- Basingstoke, Alton and Whitchurch: Sheet 144 (OS Explorer Map)
- Haslemere & Petersfield Map | Midhurst & Selborne | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL33
- Chichester Map | South Harting & Selsey | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL08
Finish time: 7 hours 57 minutes
Links: Hangers Way (LDWA), Alice Holt Country Park, Selborne, Selbourne Common National Trust, Butser Hill, Queen Elizabeth Country Park

This was my 13th Ultra, my 4th with my friend Mark and my 1st with my sister Lisa. After doing last year’s Race The Sun on my own it was nice to be with a group on the same event, even if we all did it at our own pace.

The Hangers Way gets its name from the series of steep, wooded hills known as the Hampshire Hangers. The route itself winds its way from Alton railway station to Queen Elizabeth Country Park, through a diverse landscape of ancient woodlands, rolling hills, and charming villages. The Hangers Way walking route is ~33km so the 50km Ultra route adds in and extra 16km from the start at Alice Holt Country Park plus a bit of extra meandering along the way.

Although I’d been to the country parks at the start and finish before I’d not experienced any of the route in between. It was a beautiful, warm mid-summer day and the countryside was stunning. A pleasant mix of woodland, open farmland and old English villages.

The warm day also meant that it was a bit too hot for my liking. I’ve completed a 50K in just over 7 hours before and I’d love to get in just under 7 one day. Based on the temperature and a glance at the elevation profile I estimated an 8 hour finish time for this one.

Mark and I kept together until the 2nd Aid Station at Selborne before he gradually edged ahead. Lisa was looking after a friend who was on her first Ultra so was taking a slower pace. On her own Lisa would likely have been a similar pace to, or faster than, Mark.

The route became hillier after Selbourne and my slow running became a power-walk. Keeping an eye on my pace via my Garmin, I was doing roughly 5km per hour which would bring me in more or less on 8 hours. I could probably have done a few bursts of running on the downhills but realistically it wouldn’t have got me there much faster so I kept the pace and saved my energy for the hills.

The final 15k was brutal with steep climbs at 35k, 45k and then Butser Hill right at the end. By the summit of Butser I was 15 minutes off the 8-hour mark and could see the finish line in the distance. I found a final spike of energy to get me down Butser to cross the line at 7:57. Very happy with that. Mark had finished 30 minutes earlier and Lisa and her friend came in shortly after.

As with most Ultras the pain soon fades once you have the medal on and talk turns to the next one. Next one for me is The Lap around Lake Windermere next year. It’s 75km on a mountain route so I’ll probably need to do more training than my usual parkrun and a 10k a week before.

Richard gowerRun, Ultramarathon, National Trust, South Downs, Hampshire, EnglandComment
Chichester Harbour National Landscape High Points
 

Significance: Chichester Harbour National Landscape High Points
Member of: N/A
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Bow Hill
Historic County: Hampshire (of which Pilot Hill is the County Top)
Elevation: 9m
Date “climbed”: 1st June 2024
Coordinates (Alpudram Airfield): 50° 48' 49'' N, 0° 48' 37'' W
Coordinates (Bosham Boathouse): 50° 50' 17'' N, 0° 50' 10'' W
Map: Chichester Map | South Harting & Selsey | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL08
Links: Wikipedia (Chichester Harbour, RAF Appledram), Peakbagger (Apuldram, Bosham Boathouse)

 

Chichester Harbour is one of the smallest of the National Landscapes. It also has the lowest high point at 9m. The highest point isn’t obvious with at least 2 points showing a spot height of 9m. Here’s both….

Alpudram Airfield

This spot is on a small lane connecting Alpuldram and Chichester Marina. The coordinates take you to a layby with an information sign describing the old Apuldram Airfield.

Bosham Boathouse

This one is on the A259 Main Road between Fishbourne and Bosham at the junction with Chequer Lane. The most interesting point is the old wooden boat converted into a flower bed outside the Bosham Boathouse B&B.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Coast, Sussex, EnglandComment
Chiltern Walks: Bovingdon Green and Shillingridge Wood

Navigating a fallen tree near Kent’s Wood

Start & Finish: The Royal Oak, Frieth Road, Marlow, SL7 2JF
Distance: 10.9 km (6.8 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 152m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Chiltern Way, Shakespeare’s Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Royal Oak at start and finish
Map: Chiltern Hills East Map | High Wycombe, Maidenhead & Rickmansworth | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 172
Links: Bovingdon Green, Pullingshill Wood & Marlow Common

This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

For this walk we parked at the Royal Oak pub on Frieth Road. From here take a left to walk along Frieth Road in a westerly direction and take the first footpath on the right. Follow the path north for 300m then take a left onto Mundaydean Lane. Follow Mundaydean Lane for it’s full length and continue when it becomes a footpath into Shillingridge Woods. At a footpath junction ~2.3km into from where you joined Mundaydean Lane, take a left to cross farmland.

The path will join Finnamore Lane then Frieth Road. Take a right onto Frieth Lane then first left onto Chrisbridge Lane. Follow Chrisbridge Lane for 2.5km then take a path on the left to cross farmland. Continue heading south until you meet the Chiltern Way and The Shakespeare’s Way on a small unnamed lane. Take a left onto the lane, then first left back down through the woods to the clearing. take a right to continue on the Chiltern Way and The Shakespeare’s Way.

Cross through Pullingshill Wood and into Davenport Wood where you’ll reach a path junction at 9.7 km into the walk. Leave the Shakespeare’s Way which continues towards the east and instead take a left to follow the Chiltern Way in a north-easterly direction. Continue along the Chiltern Way until you’re back at the Royal Oak pub in Bovingdon Green.

Shakespeare’s Way Previous Section (west): North-East Hambleden Circular

Shakespeare’s Way Next Section (east): Marlow and Harleyford

Richard gowerTrek, Chilterns, Buckinghamshire, EnglandComment
RideLondon 2024

Brian and I, somewhere in Essex. Photo by Sportograf

RideLondon had been on my back-burner for years. It began life in 2013 as Prudential RideLondon, following the route of the 2012 Olympics road race from London to the Surrey Hills and back. In the early years it was so popular that there was a ballot for places. I didn't get in for a years, then missed a few as it coincided with our summer holiday dates, then I kind of forgot about it.

The route changed completely in 2022 when it moved from Surrey to Essex. There was also no ballot and the date changed to late May. After my friend Brian did it in 2023 it soon came back to the top of my list.

It had been a long time since I'd done an organised cycling event, preferring self-organised bike-packing adventures instead. I didn't doubt that I could do the distance but I was concerned about what bike I would take. A light road bike is the obvious choice but I had one stolen a few years back. My only other one is very old and permanently lives on my turbo-trainer for Zwifting. Rather than go through the faff of renting a bike I decided to go on my mountain bike. It's really heavy and definitely not intended for 100 miles of road, but I love riding it. I decided that the extra effort was worth the time and cost saved from other options.

The event day was awesome. It was expertly organised with 25,000 cyclists getting though 103 miles of closed roads. The route follows a diverse mix of Central London to Canary Wharf, the East End through Newham and a long stretch of the A12 dual carriageway before the more pleasant North-London suburbs and quiet Essex countryside.

Brian and I kept together for the first 70 miles then I slipped back a bit and stopped for a few minutes to pick up some more water. Brian would have waited but his RideLondon app showed me as being ahead of him so he powered on.

Brian arrived at the Tower Bridge finish line 20 minutes head of me. After the official timings had filtered out the welfare stop, our finish times were only 9 minutes apart. Given the heaviness of the bike I had I was very pleased.

Completing RideLondon takes me to 2 out of the 3 events that I need for the London Classics Medal. I already had the London Marathon in the bag so it's just the 2 mile Serpentine Swim to complete. I just need to learn how to swim now ....

Richard gowerCycle, NCN, Thames, London, EssexComment
Chiltern Walks: Sharpenhoe Clappers

View to Sharpenhoe Clappers Hill Fort

Start & Finish: Sharpenhoe Clappers Car Park, 349 Sharpenhoe Road, Sharpenhoe, Bedford, MK45 4SH
Distance: 10.4 km (6.5 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 153m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Chiltern Way, Iknield Trail Path, John Bunyan Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): Icknield Trail, Chilterns Cycleway
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Chequers, Streatley (4.2 km in)
Map: Luton & Stevenage Map | Hitchin & Ampthill | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 193
Links: National Trust Sharpenhoe and Sundon Hills, Sharpenhoe Clappers Fort, Streatley, John Bunyan

This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

Sharpenhoe Clappers is a classic Chilterns walk in the northern exclave of the Chiltern Hills AONB. This is where there’s a gap in the chalk ridge created by the River Lea as is meanders south from Leagrave, through Luton and eventually to London. It’s a lot quieter than the main section of the AONB and has some outstanding views from the top of the ridgeline. The free National Trust Car Park on Sharpenhoe Road is a good place to start. The Chiltern Way, Icknield Way and John Bunyan Trail and route through Sharpenhoe Clappers. This walk is just over 10km but you can create longer or shorter options with different choices on the intersections of these 3 trails.

From here follow the Chiltern Way/John Bunyan Trail heading in a north-easterly direction from the car park. After 100m there’s a fork in the path where you’ll take the left hand path to keep on the Chiltern Way/John Bunyan Trail now heading in a northerly direction. This first 1km takes you along the edge of a peninsular of chalk ridge leading up to the site of the old iron age hill fort. At the tip of the peninsular the John Bunyan Trail continues to the north. Instead, keep on the Chiltern Way as it curves around towards the south, joining the Icknield Way Path after the paragliding take-off spot. Keep following the Chiltern Way as it curves around the ridge to Streatley.

After a rest at the Chequers Inn, continue along Sharpenhoe Road until you reach a footpath on the left leading to the large transmitter towers. Follow this path then take a left onto the Icknield Way/John Bunyan Trail. Follow the path in a westerly direction for 1.5km until the Icknield Way and John Bunyan Trail split. Take a right to keep on the Icknield Way descending to the remains of an old quarry and another Icknield Way/John Bunyan Trail intersection. Take a right to follow the path at the bottom of the ridge back to Sharpenhoe Road. Cross over Sharpenhoe Road and take a right on the path to ascend steeply up to the car park.

Richard gowerTrek, Chilterns, National Trust, Bedfordshire, EnglandComment
The Maltese Three Peaks

Dingli Cliffs

Malta is the EU’s smallest country by both size and population. It’s also fairly flat and has great transport connections making it easy to bag its high points.

The country high point is on Dingli Cliffs on the main island. There’s 2 other large islands in the Maltese Archipelago, Gozo and Comino. Both have high points worth visiting for great views of their respective islands.

Dingli Cliffs

Also known as: Ta'Dmejrek (in Maltese)
Significance: High point of the island of Malta and country of Malta
Elevation: 253m
Date climbed: 9th May 2024
Coordinates: 35° 51' 11'' N, 14° 23' 3'' E

Start & Finish: Parking Dingli Cliffs, Triq Panoramica, Maddalena, Dingli
Distance: 1km (0.6 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 12m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Mdina Walk
Guidebook: Europe's High Points: Reaching the Summit of Every Country in Europe
Links: Malta (Country), Malta (Island), Dingli, Peakbagger

 

For Dingli start at the Dingli Cliffs Viewpoint. There’s parking for a few cars and it’s a popular stop for sightseeing coach tours. From the parking spot check out the views across the sea to Filfla island from the back of St Mary Magdalene Chapel.

From the parking spot walk along the pavement in a westerly direction towards the radar station (the big white golf ball). About half way to the radar station there’s an obvious high point on the cliff top rocks. While not quite the high point, it felt like it should be so we took the banner phone above there.

To reach the actual high point you’ll need to cross the main cliff top road and walk up a private track to the radio transmitters.

Ta' Dbiegi

Significance: High point of the island of Gozo, Malta
Elevation: 194m
Date climbed: 7th May 2024
Coordinates: 36° 3' 6'' N, 14° 12' 49'' E

Start & Finish: Free Parking outside Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, Triq ir-Rokon, St Lawrence, Gozo
Distance: 1.5km (0.9 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 58m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Links: Gozo, San Lawrenz, Peakbagger

 

The Gozo high point is a more interesting walk as it’s more challenging to get to. Note that the hill is in private farmland. There’s a well marked path to the top and, at the time we visited, no-one around to ask permission from. When scanning through previous logs on Peakbagger I saw that other walkers had a similar experience of either no-one around or farmers not being bothered by visitors walking to the summit.

We parked at the free parking spots outside the Kempinski Hotel on Triq ir-Rokon, San Lawrenz. From the parking spot continue along the road for 120m the take the first farm track on the left. Pass the houses on the right and continue to a bend in the track at 400m into the route from the parking spot.

Take the path on the right that ascends the hill to the summit. You’ll need to cross over a metal pole and a couple of signs saying “no entry, private farmers lane”. The summit is makes by a small cairn of white stones. From the top you can see across the whole island and to Comino and Malta islands.

Return via the same route.

Comino High Point

Significance: High point of the island of Comino, Malta
Elevation: 74m
Date climbed: 10th May 2024
Coordinates: 36° 0' 44'' N, 14° 20' 44'' E

Start & Finish: Ferry berths, Blue Lagoon, Comino
Distance: 7.7km km (4.8 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 125m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Links: Comino, Peakbagger

 

The first task in reaching the Comino high point is finding a boat to get you to the island. There’s a lot of options, from the ferry at Cirkewwa or the numerous tourist boats that go from many places on the main island. We arranged for seats on a small boat that picked us up from our hotel and took us back a few hours later. Whichever option you take make you that you have at least 3 hours on the island to do the circular tour and enjoy the views.

Unless you have a private charter, most boats will drop you off at the moorings at the Blue Lagoon. This is a beautiful bay that’s worth visiting in it’s own right. The vast majority of visitors to the island don’t stray far from this bay and it can be very over crowded. There’s several food and drink kiosks by the boat moorings. Make sure that you either take food and drink with you or buy it from the kiosks when you arrive as there’s no other shops on the island.

From the Blue Lagoon we took the coastal path in a clockwise direction. The path is well maintained and has a few metal signs along the route. You can’t really get lost but there’s a few different options so we were glad to have the GPX route on the phone. There were a few places where we could have taken a path closer to the coast but kept inland being mindful of the departure time of our boat.

It is possible to take a shorter out-and-back route through the centre of the island to the high point. It only saves around 3km though, and the coastal route is such a nice walk that it doesn’t make sense to rush this one.

When we visited in May 2024 both the Comino Hotel in Saint Nicolas Bay and the Hotel Bungalows in Santa Maria Bay were shut and fenced off. I read that they were being redeveloped to re-open in 2025 but that felt optimistic as they were derelict and there was no sign of any work being done.

The actual high point is just off the main coastal path but hard to miss as there’s a small cairn at the top.

On the route back to the Blue Lagoon you’ll pass the remains of the old pig farm, the 19th century isolation hospital and Santa Maria Tower. The cliffs between the Tower and the Blue Lagoon are the most spectacular part of the walk.

We loved this walk and it was, for us, the highlight of our week in Malta. Dingli may be the highest point, but this was our favourite.

Richard gowerTrek, Country High Points, Coast, Island High PointsComment
Chiltern Walks: Marlow and Harleyford

Pullingshill Wood

Start & Finish: Entrance to Higginson Park off High Street, Marlow, SL7 2AB
Distance: 10.2 km (6.3 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 94m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Thames Path, Shakespeare’s Way, Chiltern Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe in Higginson Park at start and finish. Harleyford Golf Club bar (4km in). Many in Marlow High Street.
Map: Chiltern Hills East Map | High Wycombe, Maidenshead & Rickmansworth | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 172
Links: Marlow, Harleyford, Harleyford Estate, Pullingshill Wood & Marlow Common

This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

For this walk we parked at Pound Lane car park at the northern end of Higginson Park. From here follow the Thames Path in a south-westerly direction for just over 2km. Take a right onto Harleyford Lane and follow it for 1km to to a T junction. Take a left and follow the footpath in a westerly direction through the Harleyford Estate. Approximately 600m past the Golf Course Club House you’ll reach a path junction in the woods. Take a right here and follow the path to the A4155 Henley Road. Cross over the A4155 and take a right onto Thames Reach. This will curve round to the north through RAF housing.

Continue along Thames Reach then North Close and into the footpath into Hog and Hollowhill Nature Reserve. Continue in a northerly direction into Pullingshill Woods. Look out for the information board detailing the woods’ history as a WW1 trench training. Shortly after the information board you’ll reach the junction with the Chiltern Way/Shakespeare’s Way.

Take a right onto Chiltern Way/Shakespeare’s Way and follow the path in a south-easterly direction. After ~300 the Chiltern Way and Shakespeare’s Way split. Leave the Chiltern Way and keep on the Shakespeare’s Way continuing in a south-easterly direction. When you reach the A4155 Henley Road, cross over and follow Pound Lane all the way back to the Pound Lane car park at Higginson Park.

Shakespeare’s Way Previous Section (west): Bovingdon Green and Shillingridge Wood

Shakespeare’s Way Next Section (east): Marlow Donkey

Richard gowerTrek, Thames, National Trails, Chilterns, Buckinghamshire, EnglandComment
Chiltern Walks: Stonor and Turville Heath

Between Turville Heath and Pishill

Start & Finish: Road-side parking in Stonor Village, RG9 6HB
Distance: 10 km (6.2 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 208m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Shakespeare’s Way, Chiltern Way, Oxfordshire Way, 7 Shires Way
Other routes touched (cycle): none
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at the Stonor House Visitors Centre
Map: OS Explorer Map (171) Chiltern Hills West, Henley-on-Thames and Wallingford
Links: Stonor, Stonor Park, Pishill, Maidensgrove

This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

For this walk we parked in a small layby in Stonor village centre. From here walk up the B480 in a northerly direction until you reach the corner of Stonor Park. Pass through the kissing gates and follow the path in a east/north-easterly direction for 1.9 km. Take a left onto Drovers Lane, following it in a north-westerly direction. Along Drovers Lane you can choose to either stick to the road or, as we did, take the parallel path through Summerheath Wood.

At the end of Drovers Lane continue onto Dolesden Lane, cross over Balham’s Lane then take a footpath on the left at the end of Dolesden Lane. Follow the footpath to the left of the converted church building and follow the path through farmland as it gently descends to Pishill. As you approach Pishill the path will meet a T-junction with the Oxfordshire Way. Take a left, then a right onto the B480 then a left onto Church Hill. Follow the Oxfordshire Way in a southerly direction up Church Hill then out into farmland. Continue for 2km from Pishill until you meet the junction with the Chiltern Way / Shakespeare’s Way at Maidensgrove. Take a left onto the Chiltern Way / Shakespeare’s Way to follow it all the way back to Stonor.

Shakespeare’s Way Previous Section (north): Russell's Water, Pishill and Maidensgrove
Shakespeare’s Way Next Section (south): Southend and Skirmitt (blog post coming soon)

Richard gowerTrek, Chilterns, Oxfordshire, EnglandComment
Walking The River Tyburn
Walking The River Tyburn

The boating lake at Regents Park, once fed by the River Tyburn

Start: Hampstead Underground Station, Hampstead High Street, London NW3 1QG
Finish: Westminster Pier, London SW1A 2JH, United Kingdom
Distance: 10.1 km (6.3 Miles)
Elevation change: +47m / -150m. Net -103m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): Regents Canal Towpath, Jubilee Greenway, Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Walk, Thames Path
Other Routes Touched (cycle): C27, 3, 56
Map: OS Explorer 173 London North
Guidebooks: London's Lost Rivers: A Walker's Guide, London's Lost Rivers, London's Hidden Rivers: A walker's guide to the subterranean waterways of London
Links: River Tyburn, Hampstead, Shepherd’s Well, Swiss Cottage, Regents Park, Baker Street, Mayfair, Green Park, Westminster

For today's London lost river trip we met up with some friends at Hampstead Tube station to walk the route of the old River Tyburn. The Tyburn, once a vital artery of London, now flows silently beneath the bustling city. Originally a meandering stream that provided water and powered mills, its course now follows a network of sewers. Despite its disappearance, the Tyburn's legacy lives on. Its path can be traced through street names and subtle dips in the land, while its past function is remembered in landmarks like Buckingham Palace, which it once flowed beneath. Though hidden from sight, the River Tyburn remains a fascinating reminder of London's ever-changing landscape.

From Hampstead Tube Station follow the A502 Hampstead High Street in a south-easterly direction then take a right onto Shepherds Walk. Continue onto Spring Walk and follow it all the way to Fitzjohn’s Avenue. Take a left onto Spring Path and follow it to the junction with Shepherd’s Path. This junction is the approximate location of the source of the River Tyburn.

Take a right onto Shepherd’s Path and follow it back to Fitzjohn’s Avenue. Here you’ll find Shepherd’s Well, a former source of drinking water and now an early artifact of the route of the Tyburn. Continue south along Fitzjohn’s Avenue where you’ll pass the statue of Sigmund Freud on the corner with Belsize Lane. At the Swiss Cottage Junction continue in a south-easterly direction onto the B525. You could either follow this straight to Regent’s Park or, to keep closer to the route of the old river, take a right onto Norfolk Road, a left onto Woronzow Road, a right onto St Johns Wood Terrace and a left onto Charlbert Street. Cross over Prince Albert Road and cross over Bridge #8 on the Regent’s Canal to enter Regent’s Park.

Head south through Regent’s Park and along-side the western side of the boating lake which was once filled by the Tyburn. Exit the park onto Baker Street just before the footbridge that leads to Regent’s University. Head south along Baker Street, then over the A501 into Marylebone. The area takes its name from the River Tyburn and the nearby St Mary’s Church (“St Mary’s on the bourne” = Marylebone). The route of the Tyburn meanders south through Marylebone and across Oxford Street (known as Tyburn Road in the eighteenth century) at Bond Street. Continue south into Mayfair and take a moment to stop at Gray’s Antiques Market where’s it’s claimed that the river still runs through its basement.

At New Bond Street then route of the Tyburn curves to the south-west taking you along Curzon Street and White Horse Street to Piccadilly. Cross over into Green Park and cross the park in a south-easterly direction to Buckingham Palace. The Tyburn flows under the Palace, emerging on the south side near Ambassador’s Court. Here the Tyburn splits into two with one section flowing south to Pimlico and another branch west to Westminster.

We chose to follow the Westminster branch, following the route along Buckingham Gate, Caxton Street, Dacre Street, Victoria Street and onto Parliament Square. Cross the grass centre of Parliament Square towards Westminster Bridge, then walk north on the Embankment to Westminster Pier. The unmarked confluence of the Tyburn and Thames is approximately at the spot of the Protected View to St Paul’s Cathedral.

The Eastern Source: Belsize Park to Charlbert Street

Start: Belsize Park Underground, Haverstock Hill, London, NW3 2AL
Finish: Drunch Pub Regent's Park, 38 St John's Wood Terrace, London, NW8 6LS
Distance: 3.3 km (2 Miles)
Elevation change: +6m / -35m. Net -29m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched: None
Links: Belsize Park

Having walked the Hampstead to Westminster branch of the Tyburn I wanted to visit the alternative sources at Belsize Park and the eastern confluence at Pimlico. I used OpenStreetMap as a guide as some layers show the route of the Tyburn. There’s actually 2 eastern sources shown at Belsize Park, one near the Everyman Cinema on Haverstock Hill and the other in the ground of Hillfield Court off Belsize Avenue. Both are within a few minutes of Belsize Park Underground Station.

To follow the course of the Tyburn from the eastern sources, find the junction of Glenloch Road and Glenmore Road. Follow Glenmore Road in a south-westerly direction, take a left onto Glenilla Road, then a left onto Belsize Park Gardens. Here the course of the river cuts under the terraced houses so you need to take a longer route round to pick up Lancaster Drive on the southern side. Follow Lancaster Drive south, right onto Lancaster Grove, left onto Strathray Gardens, right onto Eton Avenue and left onto King’s College Road. Here the course goes through a private estate. From the map it looked like you could walk through the estate, but I choose a slightly longer route around via Winchester Road and Harley Road to pick up the course again at Wadham Gardens. Take a right onto Elsworthy Lane, a left on to Avenue Road, right onto Acacia Road, left onto Woronznow Road, and a right onto St Johns Wood Terrace.

According to OpenStreetMap, this branch of the Tyburn merges with the Hampstead branch at the junction of St Johns Wood Terrace and Charlbert Street. The junction is flanked by the Drunch Pub and a hairdressers.

The Pimlico Branch: Buckingham Palace to Grosvenor Road

Start: Gates to Ambassadors’ Court, Buckingham Palace, London, SW1A 1AA
Finish: Thames Path by Tyburn House, 140c Grosvenor Rd, Pimlico, London, SW1V 3JY
Distance: 2.1 km (1.3 Miles)
Elevation change: +12m / -18m. Net -6m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): Thames Path
Other Routes Touched (cycle): NCN 4, C8
Links: Buckingham Palace, Pimlico

To pick up the Pimlico Branch, return to Ambassadors’ Court on the south side of Buckingham Palace. The main walk detailed about heads west from here to Westminster. Instead we’ll continue south through Westminster, Victoria, Pimlico and to the confluence with the Thames.

From Ambassadors’ Court, cross over the A3124 Buckingham Gate and walk south down a small alleyway, also called Buckingham Gate, then take a right onto Stafford Place. Continue south, crossing Palace Street, along Cathedral Walk and onto the A302. Follow Carlisle Place briefly then divert onto King Scholar’s Passage to stay closer to the course of the Tyburn. Cross over Vauxhall Bridge Road and onto Upper Tachbrook Street then Tachbrook Street. At Pimlico Underground Station, cross over Lupus Street and follow Aylesford Street to Grosvenor Road that runs parallel to the Thames. Take a left onto Grosvenor Road and follow it for ~100 metres to find Tyburn House on the south side of the road. Take the alleyway to the Thames Path to meet the confluence of the Tyburn with the Thames. You’ll find it marked by a slate plaque by artist Paul Mason listing key points along the course of the Tyburn.

The Tyburn Tree and Tyburn Convent

The Tyburn Tree and Tyburn Convent are fascinating places to visit after the walk.

For over 600 years, the Tyburn Gallows loomed over London as a grim symbol of punishment. Nicknamed "The Deadly Never Green Tree," this wasn't an actual tree but a permanent, three-pronged wooden scaffold where public executions took place. From the 16th to the 18th centuries, thousands met their demise here for crimes ranging from petty theft to treason. The process could be gruesome, with condemned souls hanged, then sometimes even drawn and quartered as a chilling deterrent to onlookers. Though a morbid landmark, the Tyburn Gallows offer a glimpse into London's harsh past and the evolution of justice. Today, a solitary plaque marks the spot where countless fates were decided.

Around 300m west of the Tyburn Gallows is the Tyburn Convent. Built in the early 1900s, it serves as a shrine to the Catholic martyrs executed there during the Reformation. The convent houses a community of nuns, the Tyburn Nuns, devoted to perpetual adoration and the legacy of these martyrs. Visitors can explore the poignant Crypt of the Martyrs, learn about the gruesome history of the site, and experience a place of solace and reflection.

The Tyburn Tree and Convent are not directly on the route of the old River Tyburn. They can be visited either as a diversion when crossing over Oxford Street or via a short Tube ride at the end from Westminster to Marble Arch with a change at Bond Street.

Links: Tyburn Tree, Tyburn Convent

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Richard gowerTrek, Canal, Middlesex, London, EnglandComment
Walking The Roman London Wall

Start & Finish: Tower Hill Postern Gate, Tower of London, London, EC3N 4DR
Distance: 4.5 km (2.8 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 50m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Jack The Ripper Walk, Jubilee Walkway, Barbican Highwalks, Green Link Walk, Thames Path (Northern Bank)
Other routes touched (cycle): C3
Pubs / Cafes on route: Everywhere. Many are only open on weekday but you’ll pass many on weekends too. We stopped at Barbie Green (2.5km in)
Map: London North Map | The City, West End, Enfield, Ealing, Harrow & Watford | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 173
Links: City of London

Beneath the towering skyscrapers and bustling streets lies a 2,000-year-old testament to the city's Roman roots – the London Wall. Built around 200 AD, the London Wall once encircled the Roman city of Londinium, enclosing an area roughly the size of the current City of London. Though much of the wall has been lost to time, several sections remain scattered throughout the city, offering a fascinating glimpse into London's Roman past.

The beauty of the London Wall lies not just in its historical significance but also in its unexpected presence. Sections of the wall peek out from behind modern buildings, offering a surprise encounter with the past as you navigate the city. Keep an eye out for informative plaques along the way, helping you piece together the story of this ancient barrier.

Having walked the City of London Boundary, our next London walk took us along the route of the old London Wall. The whole route is only 4.5km which means you could do it within an hour. There’s so much to see along the way though that I recommend talking it slow and experiencing it over a few hours.

Each section below describes the route between the locations of the old gates. The first 4 sections to Cripplegate have a lot more to see, both remains of the wall and other points of interest.

I’ve noted the blue London Wall information plaques in each section. We didn’t find them all and I assume that some have been lost to redevelopment.

Let me know if you spot any mistakes in the post or if you have any suggestions for improvement. I’ll donate £1 to one of my causes for each update made.

Tower of London to Aldgate

Section Start: Tower Hill Postern Gate, Tower of London, EC3N 4DR
Section Start Coordinates: 51°30'33.7"N 0°04'33.6"W
Section Start Nearest Station: Tower Hill (Circle, District)
Section Distance: ~700m
Section End: Aldgate Old Roman Gate Site, 88-87 Aldgate, EC3A 5DE
London Wall Plaques: 1,2,3,4
Links: Tower Hill Postern, Tower of London, City Wall at Vine Street,
Directions:

  • From plaque 1 at the Postern Gate walk north to the section of the wall next to Tower Hill Station.

  • Walk north up Trinity Square and take a right into the courtyard of the Leonardo Royal Hotel London City to find another wall section and plaque 3.

  • Cross through the hole in the wall and follow the path onto Crescent. Take a left to walk up Crescent, onto America Square, across Crosswalk and onto Vine street. Here you’ll find plaque 4 and the City Wall at Vine Street Exhibition.

  • Take a left onto India Street then a right onto Jewry Street. Walk north to Aldgate Square to find plaque 5.

Aldgate to Bishopsgate

Section Start: Aldgate Old Roman Gate Site, 88-87 Aldgate, EC3A 5DE
Section Start Coordinates: 51°30'49.0"N 0°04'36.6"W
Section Start Nearest Station: Aldgate (Circle, Metropolitan)
Section Distance: ~450m
Section End: 105 Bishopsgate, London EC2M 3UE
London Wall Plaques: 5, 7. Missing: 6
Links: Aldgate
Directions:

  • From plaque 5 continue north along the western edge of Aldgate Square onto the A1211 Dukes Road to the junction with the A10.

  • Plaque 7 is on the wall of Bevis Marks Synagogue.

Bishopsgate to Moorgate

Section Start: 105 Bishopsgate, London EC2M 3UE
Section Start Coordinates: 51°30'57.9"N 0°04'54.1"W
Section Start Nearest Station: Moorgate (Circle, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City, Northern)
Section Distance: ~520m
Section End: 34 London Wall, London EC2M 5QX
London Wall Plaques: none remain. Missing: 8, 9, 10
Links: Bishopsgate
Directions:

  • Continue in a north-westerly direction along London Wall until the junction with the A501.

Moorgate to Cripplegate

Section Start: 34 London Wall, London EC2M 5QX
Section Start Coordinates: 51°31'03.1"N 0°05'20.1"W
Section Start Nearest Station: Barbican (Circle, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City)
Section Distance: ~670m
Section End: St. Giles Cripplegate, Monkwell Square, Barbican, EC2Y 5BN
London Wall Plaques: 11, 13, 14. Missing: 12
Links: Moorgate, St. Giles Cripplegate Church
Directions:

  • Cross over the A501 to see the Roman Wall Ruins at the junction with Coleman Street.

  • Cross back over to the north side of London Wall (road) and follow it in a westerly direction to London Wall Place. Here you’ll find the St. Alphage Roman Wall at Salter's Garden.

  • At the western end of St Alphage Garden, after passing plaque 13, take a right onto Wood Street.

  • When Wood Street curves to the right to become Fore Street, take a moment to look at the plaque commemorating the site of the first bomb dropped in WW2.

  • Enter the Barbican Centre and visit St Giles Cripplegate and plaque 14.

  • Climb the stairs to the Barbican Highwalks heading west to the site of the St Giles Cripplegate City Wall Tower. Descend to the lower level.

Cripplegate to Aldersgate

Section Start: St. Giles Cripplegate, Monkwell Square, Barbican, EC2Y 5BN
Section Start Coordinates: 51°31'06.2"N 0°05'41.5"W
Section Start Nearest Station: Barbican (Circle, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City)
Section Distance: ~550m
Section End: St Botolph’s-without-Aldersgate, Aldersgate Street, EC1A 4EU
London Wall Plaques: 15, 18, 21. Missing: 16, 17, 19, 20
Links: Cripplegate
Directions:

  • Walk south, cross over London Wall (road) to see the remains of the wall at Noble Street.

  • Return to London Wall (road) and take the stairs or lift up to the Highwalks.

  • Walk east to the Museum of London then south to cross over the road then descend to street level to walk south down St Martin’s Le Grand (road).

  • Plaque 21 is opposite St Botolph’s-without-Aldersgate.

Aldersgate to Newgate

Section Start: St Botolph’s-without-Aldersgate, Aldersgate Street, EC1A 4EU
Section Start Coordinates: 51°31'00.9"N 0°05'48.7"W
Section Start Nearest Station: St Paul’s (Central)
Section Distance: ~600m
Section End: The Old Bailey, EC4M 7EH
London Wall Plaques: none on this section
Links: Aldersgate
Directions:

  • Head west through Postman’s Park to Little Britain (road)

  • Take a right to head south down Little Britain.

  • Take a right onto the A40, looking out for the plaque for the site of the old Christ’s Hospital on the junction.

  • Head west to the junction with Old Bailey, the site of Newgate.

Newgate to Ludgate

Section Start: The Old Bailey, London EC4M 7EH
Section Start Coordinates: 51°30'58.1"N 0°06'06.8"W
Section Start Nearest Station: St Paul’s (Central)
Section Distance: ~200m
Section End: 44-46 Ludgate Hill, EC4M 7DE
London Wall Plaques: none on this section
Links: Ludgate
Directions:

  • Head south down Old Bailey to Ludgate Hill.

Ludgate to Blackfriars

Section Start: 44-46 Ludgate Hill, EC4M 7DE
Section Start Coordinates: 51°30'50.4"N 0°06'09.3"W
Section Start Nearest Station: Blackfriars (Circle, District)
Section Distance: ~450m
Section End: Blackfriars Bridge, Blackfriars Road, SE1 9UD
London Wall Plaques: none on this section
Links: Blackfriars
Directions:

  • Cross over Ludgate Hill and walk south down Pagemaster Court.

  • Take a left onto Pilgrim Street then first right onto Ludgate Broadway.

  • Continue south down Blackfriars Brewery and onto Blackfriars Lane.

  • Take a right onto Queen Victoria Street then left onto the A201, passing the entrance to Blackfriars Station.

  • At Blackfriars Bridge take the steps down to the lower level and the end of the walk at the River Thames.

More London posts

Richard gowerComment
Chiltern Walks: Lewknor and Pyrton

Weston Road between Lewknor and South Weston

Start & Finish: The Leathern Bottle, 1 High Street, Lewknor, Watlington, OX49 5TW
Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 79m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Oxfordshire Way, The Ridgeway, Aston Rowant Discovery Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Leathern Bottle at start and end
Map: OS Explorer Map (171) Chiltern Hills West, Henley-on-Thames and Wallingford
Links: Lewknor, Pyrton

This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

This route is part of the Chilterns sections of both the Oxfordshire Way and The Ridgeway. Take a clockwise route if you’re following the Oxfordshire Way south to north or, as described below, an anti-clockwise route if you’re following The Ridgeway east to west.

For this walk we parked near the Leathern Bottle in Lewknor village centre and followed Weston Road in a north-westerly direction. After 1.5km take a left onto Rectory Lane following it in a south-westerly direction. When the lane ends continue onto the footpath to meet the Oxfordshire Way at 2.5km into the walk. Take a left at the footpath junction to follow the Oxfordshire Way to Knightsbridge Lane in Pyrton. Take a left onto Knightsbridge Lane, still following the Oxfordshire Way and cross over the B4009 Watlington Road. Continue along Station Road until you meet the junction with The Ridgeway.

Take a left onto the Ridgeway and follow it in a north-easterly direction for 3km. Take a left onto Hill Road and follow it for 700m then carefully cross over the B4009. Continue along the footpath onto Hill Road to return to the start point near the Leathern Bottle. We were keen to try out the pub as we had heard good reviews but it was closing as we got there. Check opening times before you go as it closes for a few hours each afternoon.

Oxfordshire Way Next Section (south): Christmas Common, Watlington Hill and Greenfield

Richard gowerTrek, Chilterns, Oxfordshire, EnglandComment
Cycling The Thames Estuary: Thames Barrier to Margate

The Thames Barrier, London

This was a trip that had been at the back of my mind for 30 years. Back in the summer of 1994 I cycled the length of the Thames from the source near Kemble in Gloucestershire to the Thames Barrier near Woolwich, London. The last day was a long one and we ended up at the Barrier after dark. At the time we had considered the adventure to be complete. A few years later I started to plan a second part: from the Barrier east along the Thames Estuary to Margate.

Over the intervening years I got more excited about other trips. I also either lost contact with a few of the old Thames Path gang or they got preoccupied with having babies. Early in 2024 the stars aligned and the Estuary adventure popped up to the top of my cycling backlog.

The route to Margate mostly follows NCN Route 1 with a bit of the Route 15 Viking Way at the end. It also runs parallel to the main rail line between London and Margate making trip logistics fairly simple. We did it over a weekend, staying both the Friday and Saturday night at the Chatham/Gillingham Victory Pier Premier Inn.

Day 1: Thames Barrier to Chatham

Start: Charlton Railway Station, London, SE7 7QG, United Kingdom
Finish: Premier Inn Chatham/Gillingham (Victory Pier) hotel, Blake Avenue, Gillingham, ME7 1GB, United Kingdom
Distance: 62.8 km (39 miles)
Elevation change: + 408m / -409m (Net +1m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Thames Path, Capital Ring, Jubilee Greenway, Green Chain Walk, London Loop. Cray River Way, Hoo Peninsula Path, Weald Way, Thames and Medway Canal Towpath, Saxon Shore Way, England Coast Path, Strood Community Trail,
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 1, 125, 179, Q14
Pubs / Cafes on route: At Woolwich Arsenal (4km in), Erith (15km in), Dartford (25km in), Gravesend (39 km in), Rochester (57km in), Chatham (59km in)
Maps:
- Greenwich & Gravesend Map | East End, Docklands, Bromley, Sidcup & Thurrock | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 162
- Gravesend & Rochester Map | Hoo Peninsula | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 163
Links: Charlton, Thames Barrier, Woolwich Arsenal, Erith, Dartford, Gravesend, Thames and Medway Canal, Rochester, Chatham, Gillingham

 

Like all Saturdays the day started with a parkrun, this time at Great Lines Heritage park, just over a mile from from the hotel. From there we headed to Chatham Station to get the train to Charlton. The Thames Barrier is a 1.4km ride from Charlton Station.

Navigation is straightforward, keeping to the NCN Route 1 all the way to Chatham. The first 20km hugs the riverside passing a mix of pleasant gentrified areas like Woolwich Arsenal and ugly industrial parts. After Erith the Route 1 cuts south away from the river to Dartford avoiding the entrance to the Queen Elizabeth Bridge. We had planned a coffee and cake stop in Dartford but nothing inspired us so we carried on. By the time we reached Gravesend we were really hungry and, as pubs were open by then, were optimistic about finding food. We found Gravesend equally inspiring so didn’t stop there either.

After Gravesend the scenery becomes much more pleasant. With the Route 1 following the disused Thames and Medway Canal. Watch out for the obelisk that marks the half-way point between the cities of London and Rochester. The Route 1 leaves the canal at Lower Higham which, conveniently for us, also has a train station. Brian was having problems with his wheel after several punctures and we’d run out of options to fix it at the road-side. Here we decided that Brian would head to Chatham by train and I would finish the first day on my own.

As it turned out Brian missed one of the best parts of the first day. The final section included quiet countryside and a descent down to Rochester. Had we kept together we would have stopped in Rochester for food ahead of the final few miles. I decided that I was on a mission to beat Brian’s train journey back to Chatham so I wasn’t hanging around. A 20 minute wait for the train meant that I was back at the hotel before Brian arrived at Halfords in Chatham. With a newly fixed wheel and fresh supplies of inner-tubes we were now ready for Day 2.

Day 2: Chatham to Margate

Start: Premier Inn Chatham/Gillingham (Victory Pier) hotel, Blake Avenue, Gillingham, ME7 1GB, United Kingdom
Finish: Margate Lighthouse, Harbour Arm, Margate, CT9 1AP
Distance: 87 km (54 miles)
Elevation change: + 514m / -513m (Net -1m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Saxon Shore Way, England Coast Path, Swale Heritage Trail, Invicta Way, Wantsum Walk,
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 1, 174, 15: Viking Coastal Trail
Pubs / Cafes on route: At Sittingbourne (22km in), Faversham (40km in), Whitstable (59km in), Herne Bay (66km in), Westgate-on-Sea (83km in) and Margate.
- We stopped at Cafe Guild in Faverham (40 km in) and The Ship Inn, Herne Bay (66km in)
Maps:
- Gravesend & Rochester Map | Hoo Peninsula | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 163
- Sittingbourne & Faversham Map | Isle of Sheppey | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 149
- Canterbury & Isle of Thanet Map | Herne Bay, Deal & Whitstable | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 150
Links: Sittingbourne, Faversham, Crab & Winkle Way, Whitstable, Herne Bay, Reculver, Westgate-on-Sea, Margate, Margate Lighthouse

 

Shortly after leaving the Chatham/Gillingham area, the Route 1 passes through Riverside Country Park. It was very popular with dog walkers early that Sunday morning so it was a good chance to take it slow as we warmed up for the day. After the Country Park the route cuts away from the estuary from Rainham to Sittingbourne.

Sittingbourne was our original plan for a breakfast stop but we were similarly uninspired by food options as we were on day 1. By the time we arrived in Faversham with 40km down we were starving. It was worth the wait though as Faversham is a very nice old Kent market town with several good cafes.

After Faversham the route heads back towards the coast then takes a detour up the steepest hill of the route to bypass Whitstable Town Centre. After a well-earned descent we reached the Crab & Winkle Way, a disused railway that once connected Whitstable to Canterbury. This was the point where we left the NCN 1, which follows the old railway line to the south. Instead we followed the Crab & Winkle Way north to join the Route 15 Viking Way at the Whistable coast.

The last 28km along the Viking Way from Whitstable to Margate was my favourite section of the whole route. This section keeps to the coast along flat boulevards passing seaside towns and the remains of Reculver Towers. We had made good time so we stopped for a while at a pub in Herne Bay to gaze across the estuary and contemplate future adventures.

Our 2-day adventure finished at Margate Lighthouse, an obvious place to mark the end of the Estuary adventure. We really enjoyed the trip and, baring the wheel & puncture issues at the end of day one, found it pretty easy going. I still didn’t get the sense of completion though. Yes, we had cycled the estuary to complete the Thames Path, but we had now left the southern section of the NCN Route 1 uncompleted. Within a couple of days I was already planning the next 2 day adventure to complete both the NCN Route 1 from Whitstable to Dover and the rest of the Viking Way.

 

The Full 2-Day Route

The Millennium Mileposts

Dotting the UK's National Cycle Network are over 1,000 unique markers known as the Millennium Mileposts. Unveiled in 2000, these cast-iron sculptures are more than just waymarkers. Designed by four artists, one from each nation of the UK, they celebrate the diversity of the cycling routes. These artistic mileposts come in various shapes and can be found in both bustling towns and scenic landscapes, adding a touch of artistic charm to a cycling adventure. Here’s the 14 Mileposts that I spotted on the 2 day estuary adventure.

Richard gowerCycle, NCN, Coast, Canal, Railway, Disused Railway, Thames, London, Kent, National Trails, England Comments
Walking The Guildford and Shalford Disused Railways

Broadford Road bridge over the disused railway path

Start: Shalford Station, Guildford, GU4 8JD
Finish: Guildford Station, Guildford, GU1 4UT
Distance: 9.1 km (5.6 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 52m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Wey-South Path, National Trust Railway Walk, Scholar’s Trail, North Downs Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 22, Downs Link
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Snooty Fox cafe near Shalford Station, The Weyside (7.9 km in), many others in Guildford
Map: OS Explorer Map (145) Guildford and Farnham
Links: Shalford, Guildford, Wey and Arun Canal, National Trust River Wey and Godalming Navigations and Dapdune Wharf, The Cranleigh Line

This is part of a series of short walks in and around the Surrey Hills. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

I’d had this walk in mind for a few years after I completed the Downs Link with my friend Mark in 2021. The Downs Link connects the North Downs Way and South Downs Way, mostly following disused railways. It starts at St Martha’s Hill following footpaths and joins the old rail line near Chinthurst Hill. However, there’s a section of this old line from Guildford that the Downs Link doesn’t follow so we needed to return to complete the rest.

This is a point-to-point walk with Guildford and Shalford Stations at either end. We originally planned to start at Guildford and return back on the train from Shalford. Although the train ride between them is only 8 minutes, the trains are fairly infrequent at weekends. As there was a Guildford-Shalford train leaving shortly after we parked at Guildford we took that one and did the route in reverse.

From Shalford Station cross over the A281 Horsham Road and follow the path across the common in a south-westerly direction to Broadford Road. Take a right and cross the bridge over the River Wey. Follow the path on the western side of the Wey north for approximately 1 km until you see the path on the left to the National Trust River Wey Navigations Railway Line Walk. Climb the old embankment to the WW2 Pillbox at the top and follow the route of the old rail line. This is the old section of line where trains from Shalford would have crossed over the River Wey to turn south onto the line to Petersfield. After ~400m the path reaches the fence where you can see the current Guildford to Petersfield line.

Continue a bit further and you’ll see where the Cranleigh Line used to split off from the Guildford to Petersfield line. Look closely near the A3100 Old Portsmouth Road bridge and you can see some remains of the old track with a tree growing out of them. This is the start of the old Cranleigh Line which becomes the route of the Downs Link further to the south.

Follow the route of the old rail line for another 2km, crossing under Broadford Road, across Horsham Road and back onto the Wey-South Path. Our walk reaches its southernmost point at the Tannery Lane bridge where the Downs Link joins from the north-east. Having already done the rest of the Cranleigh Line on the Downs Link, this now completes the full stretch of the disused railway.

To complete the walk, turn around and retrace your steps back to Horsham Road. Instead of following the old rail line again take a right onto Horsham Road and follow the Wey-South Path. Stay on the Wey-South Path, along the banks of the Wey all the way back to Guildford. On this final stretch you’ll retrace the 1 km of the route between the Broadford Road Bridge and the start of the old railway line. You’ll also cross over the route of the North Downs Way. For me this would have been a more logical place to start the Downs Link as it would have run closer to the route of the rail lines. I guess whoever designed the trail wasn’t as much of a completist as I am and thought St Martha’s Hill was a more impressive place to start.

Annoyingly, the end-point of the Wey-South Path at Millmead Lock was blocked off when we got there. The footbridge onto the island was destroyed after heavy rain in 2019 and is still out of action. There’s an easy diversion along the A281 past The Weyside pub and then over the footbridge behind the theatre. The final 1 km of the walk follows the west bank of the Wey back to Guildford Station.

More Disused Railway Posts

Richard gowerTrek, Railway, Disused Railway, Canal, National Trust, Surrey Hills, Surrey, EnglandComment
Chiltern Walks: Bourne End, Cookham and Wooburn

River Thames at Cookham

Start & Finish: Wakeman Road Car Park, 2A Wakeman Road, Bourne End, SL8 5SX
Distance: 8.2 km (5.1 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 83m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Thames Path, Shakespeare’s Way, Beeches Way, Chiltern Way Berkshire Loop, High Wycombe to Bourne End Disused Railway
Other routes touched (cycle): N/A
Pubs / Cafes on route: Several in Bourne End and Cookham village centres. Also The Ferry (2.4 km in), The Garibaldi (3.7 km in), Chequers Inn (5.3 km in),
Map: OS Explorer Map (172) Chiltern Hills East
Links: Bourne End, Cookham, Wooburn

This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

For this walk we parked at Wakeman Road Car Park in Bourne End and walked to the River Thames via the footpath to the left of the station. At the Thames cross over the railway bridge and, at the bottom of the steps, take a right to follow the Thames Path in a southerly direction.

Leave the Thames Path at Cookham Bridge and cross over to the north side of the Thames to follow Ferry Lane north. Here you have 2 choices: to follow The Beeches Way by taking the first path on the right after the bridge or to take an alternative route via Hedsor Road. Both options come together around the 5km mark at the top of Harvest Hill. We had already done the Beeches Way option so we took the alternative described below.

Continue north along Ferry Lane the take a right onto Hedsor Road, following it for ~500m to take a left onto Heavens Lea. Cross over Hedsor Hill (road) to follow Harvest Hill (road) in a north-easterly direction to Kiln Lane. Take a left onto Kiln Lane then a right onto a footpath just before the Chequers pub. Follow this footpath all the way down to Wooburn Park then cross over the River Wye and Town Lane.

Take the path to the left of Spake Oak depot to reach the disused Wycombe to Bourne End Railway Line. Follow this in a south-westerly direction to the end at the A4155 Cores End Road. Follow this back to the car park in Bourne End.

Shakespeare’s Way Previous Section (west): Marlow Donkey

Shakespeare’s Way Next Section (east): Beeches Way

Richard gowerTrek, Chilterns, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Thames, National Trails, Railway, Disused Railway, EnglandComment
Chiltern Walks: Watlington and The Ridgeway

View to Watlington Hill

Start & Finish: Public Car Park, Hill Road, Watlington, OX49 5AB
Distance: 7.9 km (4.9 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 59m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Ridgeway, The Oxfordshire Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Spire and Spoke (at start and end), The Chequers (7.3km in). Others in Watlington.
Map: OS Explorer Map (171) Chiltern Hills West, Henley-on-Thames and Wallingford
Links: Watlington

For our latest Chiltern Walk we returned to the Oxfordshire Way. This is a 66 mile long-distance path connecting Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds with Henley-on-Thames. Our plan is to start with the Chilterns section, taking it on in short circular walks of around 10km. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

For this walk we parked in the public car park near The Spire and Spoke on Hill Road, Watlington. From the north-western side of the car park follow Watcombe Road in a south-westerly direction then a right onto the B480 Brook Street. Take a left onto a footpath after ~20m which will open out into a large field. Cross the field diagonally in an easterly direction to meet a footpath. Take a left to follow this path for approximately 1.4km in a southerly direction to The Ridgeway. Along this path you’ll pass Willow Pond, a public space with a stream that you can walk either side of.

Turn left onto The Ridgeway and follow it in a north-easterly direction for approximately 2.5km. Take a left onto Station Road and follow it to the intersection with the B4009 Watlington Road. Just before the intersection, on the right hand side, you’ll pass the remains of the disused Watlington Station. There’s not much left and access to it is locked off but you can see the remains from the road.

Cross over the B4009 to follow Pyrton Lane for 55m until a junction where Pyrton Lane diverts to the left and Knightsbridge Lane continues to the north-west to Pyrton. This juction is as far as we go on the Chilterns Section of the Oxfordshire Way. The junction with the B4009 was the point where the Oxfordshire Way crosses out of the Chiltern Hills AONB.

Follow Pyrton Lane in a south-westerly direction for 40m then take a footpath on the left following the boundary of Icknield Community College. Follow the boundary of the college to Love Lane, following it onto Chapel Street then High Street. Take a left onto High Street and follow it back to the car park.

Oxfordshire Way Next Section (south): Christmas Common, Watlington Hill and Greenfield

Richard gowerTrek, Chilterns, National Trails, Oxfordshire, EnglandComment
Isla de Lobos, Fuerteventura

Punta Martiño Lighthouse on the northern tip of the island

The Canary Islands are a regular choice for us to spend our end-of-winter holidays. They’re always warm in February and, at 4 hours flight time, they’re about as far as we want to travel for a one week trip.

Our goal for these trips is always resting over adventure and I’ve learned not to get over-excited about ticking off everything on the islands. We’ve missed most of the highest points either due to weather or length of walk. Due to this we’ve managed to successfully miss the highest points on Tenerife, Lanzarote and La Gomera. We did manage to get to the Gran Canaria summit although that’s only the highest accessible point very close to the actual high point.

So, on our week in Fuerteventura I had written off the high point even before we left the UK. Pico de la Zarza is not a very difficult hike but it was too long and too hot for our relaxing break. I added it to the list of the other Canary High Points to cover later on a different type of trip at at a different time of year.

My need for high point bagging ended up being satisfied by a trip to a small island just off the north coast of Fuerteventura. Isla de Lobos is a 5k / 15 minute ferry ride from Corralejo harbour. It has well-marked hiking trails totaling 10k and an out-and-back ascent of Montaña La Caldera.

We took the 12:30 foot ferry run by Naviera Nortour. By the time all the tourists had stopped their faffing on and off the boat it was 13:00 before we started the hike. This gave us a full 3 hours on the island before needing to be back at 16:00 for the 16:15 return ferry.

We had read on other blogs that the 10k circuit takes 2 and a quarter hours to complete. That would be a very fast pace, especially if including the high point. We walked at a steady pace, stopped for lunch 15 minutes at the lighthouse and took the full 3 hours.

We took the anticlockwise route having seen a recommendation in another blog post that this would be the less popular route. Everyone with us that day must have read the same post as most people were going the same was as us.

A few minutes later east of the ferry pier is El Puertito where there’s a pretty bay and a restaurant. We passed through it quickly as it was already crowded. From there we took a side route from the main path that takes in Las Lagunitas.

The paths around the island are well maintained and mostly flat. When you get to the lighthouse be prepared for a short climb up the hill. You’re now roughly half way into the walk and a good place for photos and a rest.

After the lighthouse return to the base and take the right hand path, now on GR131. After 3.5 km you’ll reach the spur to climb the hill to the high point. If you don’t fancy it you can carry straight on back to the ferry pier.

The weather had changed for the second half of our walk and we had some light rain on the approach. As we started ascending the rain stopped and some heavy wind started. Timea got to around 100m of elevation and decided that was enough for her as she didn’t want to be blown off back to the mainland.

I continued the remaining 10 mins to the summit to reach the Trig Pillar, get a few photos and tried not to be blown off. Even that day there were great views to both Fuerteventura and Lanzarote but I didn’t hang around for long to admire them.

From the path junction to the Montaña it’s another 20 minutes walk back to the ferry pier.

With a new island and a high point bagged I was now happy to head back to the hotel to relax for the rest of the trip.

The Hike

Start / Finish: Lobos Island Ferry Pier
Distance: 9.9 km (6.1 miles)
Elevation Change: +/- 128m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): GR131 Camino Natural de Fuerteventura
Cafe / pub on route: Chiringuito Lobos Antoñito El Farero, 600m from the Ferry Pier
Guidebook: Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura (Cicerone)
Links: Fuerteventura, Corralejo, Lobos Island

Montaña La Caldera

Also known as: Caldera de Lobos
Significance: Highest point on Isla de Lobos
Elevation: 127m (although listed as 124m on Peakbagger)
Date “climbed”: February 23rd 2024
Coordinates: 28° 45' 6'' N, 13° 49' 49'' W
Links: Peakbagger

Isla de Lobos from above

Richard gowerTrek, Island High Points, Trig Pillar, Coast, Canary Islands, SpainComment
Walking The Silchester Trail

Walking the old Roman walls

Start & Finish: Bramley Inn, The Street, Bramley, Tadley, RG26 5BT
Distance: 10.7 km (6.6 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 71m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): St. James Way, Brenda Parker Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 23, Calleva Trail
Pubs / Cafes on route: Bramley Inn at the start and finish
Maps:
- Reading, Wokingham & Pangbourne Map | Thames Path | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 159
- Basingstoke, Alton & Whitchurch Map | Odiham, Overton & Hook | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 144
Links: Bramley, Silchester, Silchester, Roman City Walls and Amphitheatre

The Sichester Trail is a ~11 km walk taking in the remains of the old Roman town of Calleva. The Hampshire County Council’s guide to the walk describes it very well so I won’t repeat those details here. I also recommend Paul Whitewick’s 20 minute video about the Roman town to learn about the history of the site before you visit.

There’s a few different options for starting the walk and we chose to start at Bramley where there’s free on-street parking near the Bramley Inn. Starting here means that the Roman Town is in the middle of the walk and you have a pub at the end.

Having completed a couple of the Camino de Santiago routes we were pleased to discover that the English section of the Camino Ingles runs through the Roman town on its path from Reading to Southampton. We’ll likely be back one day to walk that whole Camino Trail.

Richard gowerTrek, Railway, English Heritage, Hampshire, EnglandComment
Chiltern Walks: Nettlebed, Park Corner and Maidensgrove

View down to the Chiltern Way near the Five Horseshoes, Maidensgrove

Start & Finish: Nettlebed Kiln, The Old Kiln, Nettlebed, Henley-on-Thames, RG9 5AX
Distance: 8.5 km (5.3 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 159m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Chiltern Way Southern Extension, The Chiltern Way, Shakespeare’s Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Five Horseshoes, Maidensgrove (roughly half-way)
Map: OS Explorer Map (171) Chiltern Hills West, Henley-on-Thames and Wallingford
Links: Nettlebed, Nettlebed Kiln, Maidensgrove

This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

For this walk we parked on The Old Kiln (road) where there’s a few on-street parking spaces. If those are taken there’s a few around the grass island around the wooden shelter between the Kiln and the main road. Before heading off on the walk take a few minutes to check out the information boards for the Kiln and the Pudding Stones next to the shelter.

From The Old Kiln take a left onto The Green, following it in an easterly direction towards Crocker End. After ~650m take a left to follow the Chiltern Way Southern Extension in a northerly direction until at path junction at the bottom of a valley at ~2.3km in. Take a right to follow the Chiltern Way up the hill to reach the road at the southern edge of Maidensgrove and Russel’s Water Commons. Take a right to follow the road to the Five Horseshoes pub, a great half-way point for a rest.

When leaving the Five Horseshoes, continue in a north-westerly direction for ~100m then take the first footpath on the left to descend the hill back to the Chiltern Way. Take a left then first right to follow the Chiltern Way in an westerly direction to Park Corner. At Park Corner take a left after Chears Farm to follow a road heading south, then the first paths on the left, then right to head south towards Nettlebed Common Wood and back to the start at Nettlebed.

Shakespeare’s Way Previous Section (north): Swyncombe & Park Corner
Shakespeare’s Way Next Section (south): Russell's Water, Pishill and Maidensgrove

Richard gowerTrek, Chilterns, Oxfordshire, EnglandComment