Posts tagged Mountain
100 OS Trig Pillars

A Christmas Day walk in Swinley Forest, Bracknell was the event of my 100th bagged OS Trig Pillar. There was a bit of a debate, mostly with myself, about which Trig would count as my 100th. I’ve only logged pillars that I could either touch or get within a few metres of, not ones that I could only see from a distance. Of those some were listed as “remains” and have been replaced by new monuments. So, my 100th was:

UK Historic County Tops with differently named Trig Pillars

Trig Pillars near parkruns

Trig must be within 2,5km (half a parkrun) of the start line of the event.

Richard gowerTrek, Trig Pillar, England, Scotland, Wales, Chilterns, South Downs, MountainComment
Traverse of The Picos de Europa
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Unlike most of my adventures which are conceived and planned a year in advance, this was a last minute affair. This year’s summer trip was meant to be Part 3 of the big cycle trips following LEJOG and Titanic Ireland. LEJOG started with 6 of us, finished with 5 and by Belfast we were down to 3. By early June this year it was pretty clear that no-one else shared my excitement about the 2019 trip.

I loved last year’s High Peaks of The Balkans trip so much that the KE Adventures website was my first port after killing the cycle trip. Of the 4 possible trips in July the Picos de Europa Traverse stood out. With my current Camino obsession it also ticked a couple of boxes. This would be another Northern Spain trip tucked between the routes of the Caminos Frances and Norte. I could even do a tiny bit of the Norte when passing through Bilbao.

So, 6 weeks later, I was wandering around Bilbao airport looking for 11 random people that I would spend the next week with. I'd done group trips like this a couple of times before so I knew what to look for: rugged types, alone or in couples with big bags, also looking lost. Eventually we all found each other and the local Guide and started the 2 hour drive into the National Park.

The Picos de Europa is split into 3 massifs by the Cares and Duje rivers. This trip covers the Western and Central Massifs in a continuous 6 day trek. Day 1 was a good intro with a long, steady day, a 2,026m summit and a variety of terrain. As well as a taster day for the trip, it gave our guide Rosanna an idea of abilities in the group.

The first night was the Vegarredonda Refuge where we had an outbuilding to ourselves. Even having done my share of refuge/albergue stays, it still takes a night or 2 to get used to the communal sleeping and basic toilet facilities. This wasn’t a bad start though and still luxury compared some of the stops in the Balkans.

Day 2 was the least memorable and mostly covered in low clouds. It started with retracing our route back to the parking spot then heading East to Lago de la Ercina. This was the day where I wasn’t sure that I would enjoy the trip. In hindsight it was the Balkans that set my expectations too high. Having had such a great experience on that one I was too eager for this to match it from the outset.

Any fears of being underwhelmed vanished on day 3. This started with a 4-hour steep descent into the Cares Gorge. The gorge splits the Western and Central Massifs and it’s a beauty. The footpath follows a man-made channel that takes water from the Cares River to a hydroelectric plant further North. The trail provides some easy walking with dramatic views along the steep limestone walls.

That evening gave us a break from the refuges as we stayed in a nice hotel in Poncebos. We were now at the lowest elevation of the trip so the only option now was up. Day 4 gave us the most elevation in 1 day at nearly 2,000m metres. We had the option of taking the funicular railway to avoid the first third of the climb. We’d already learnt not to take any of the easier options as there was always something amazing to be missed. This was no exception as the completely enclosed funicular misses a rewarding climb. This day finished at the Vega de Urrielu refuge under the imposing Naranjo de Bulnes, a popular climbing spot.

Day 5 was the technical day with more steep scrambling sections. Our guide did well to manage our expectations on the difficulty of it. After last year’s tricky climb of Montenegro’s Zla Kolata I figured that it couldn’t be so bad. It definitely wasn’t, but it was still an exhilarating diagonal traverse of the back of Torre de los Horcados. The end of this section rewarded us with a summit of that peak and a lunch stop at the quirky Cabaña Verónica.

The rest of the trip was mostly downhill with pleasant walking. There were still interesting diversions like the stay in a hotel once owned by the King of Spain, an abandoned mine, a final summit and an excursion to Potes, an historic town near the end of the trek at Espinama.

While this didn’t have the drama of the Balkan peaks or any country high points, this matched that trip in overall enjoyment. The lack of heavy tourism will keep it a hidden gem and one for those of us wanting something different. As a tour company, KE Adventures more than lived up to expectations and I'm sure I'll be signing up for several more of their trips.

Day 1 - Lago de Enol to Vegarredonda Refugio

Date: Monday July 15th 2019
Start: Aparcamiento Pandecarmen near Lago de Enol, 33556, Asturias, Spain
Finish: Vegarredonda Refugio, 33556, Asturias, Spain
Rest stops: Mirador de Ordiales, 33556, Asturias, Spain
Distance: 12.4 km / 7.7 miles
Elevation Change: +958m / -577m / Net +429m
Walking time: 6 hours 32 minutes
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched: El Anillo de Picos, PR-PNPE 5 Bufferera-Ordiales
Summit: Pico Cotalba (2026m)

Day 2 - Vegarredonda Refugio to Refugio Vega de Ario

Date: Tuesday July 16th 2019
Start: Vegarredonda Refugio, 33556, Asturias, Spain
Finish: Refugio Vega de Ario, 33556, Asturias, Spain
Distance: 14.7 km / 9.1 miles
Elevation Change: +694m / -521m / Net -173m
Walking time: 6 hours
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched: El Anillo de Picos, PR-PNPE 4 Vega de Ario

Day 3 - Refugio Vega de Ario to Puente Poncebos

Date: Wednesday July 17th 2019
Start: Refugio Vega de Ario, 33556, Asturias, Spain
Finish: Hotel Garganta del Cares, Lugar Puente Poncebos, 0 S N, 33554 Camarmeña, Asturias, Spain
Distance: 17.6 km / 10.9 miles
Elevation Change: +830m / -2,168m / Net -1,338m
Walking time: 8 hours 34 minutes
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched: El Anillo de Picos, PR-PNPE 3 - Ruta del Cares

Day 4 - Puente Poncebos to Naranjo de Bulnes

Date: Thursday July 18th 2019
Start: Hotel Garganta del Cares, Lugar Puente Poncebos, 0 S N, 33554 Camarmeña, Asturias, Spain
Finish: Naranjo de Bulnes: Refugio Vega de Urriellu, 33554 Cabrales, Asturias, Spain
Rest stop: Refugio de la Terenosa
Distance: 11.9 km / 7.4 miles
Elevation Change: +1,748m / -20m / Net +1,728m
Walking time: 6 hours 42 minutes
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched: El Anillo de Picos, PR-PNPE 3 - Ruta del Cares, PR-PNPE 19 Canal de Camburero, PR-PNPE 19 Vega de Urrielu, GR202 Ruta de la Reconquista

Day 5 - Naranjo de Bulnes to Refugio Aliva

Date: Friday July 19th 2019
Start: Naranjo de Bulnes: Refugio Vega de Urriellu, 33554 Cabrales, Asturias, Spain
Finish: Hotel Áliva, Puerto de Áliva s/n, 39588 Puerto de Aliva, Spain
Rest stops: Cabaña Verónica, Parque Nacional Picos de Europa, s/n, 39570, Cantabria, Spain
Distance: 11.8 km / 7.3 miles
Elevation Change: +685m / -989m / Net -304m
Walking time: 6 hours 42 minutes
Other Routes Touched: El Anillo de Picos, PR-PNPE 23 Horcados des Rojos, Mirador de El Cable - Cabana Veronica
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Summit: Torre de los Horcados Rojos (2,506m)

Day 6 - Refugio Alvia to Espinama

Date: Saturday July 20th 2019
Start: Hotel Áliva, Puerto de Áliva s/n, 39588 Puerto de Aliva, Spain
Finish: Hostal Restaurante Nevandi, Barrio Espinama, s/n, 39588 Espinama, Cantabria, Spain
Distance: 10.3 km / 6.4 miles
Elevation Change: +255m / -1,036m / Net -781m
Walking time: 4 hours 21 minutes
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched: PR PNPE 24 - Puertos de Aliva - Fuente de, , GR202 Ruta de la Reconquista
Summit: Pico Valdecoro (1,841m)

The Full Traverse

The full 6-day Traverse from North West to South East. Note the overlap between Days 1 (Red) and 2 (Blue)

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, SpainComment
Werfa: Bridgend County Top

Unloved Trig Pillar at the summit of Werfa

Also known as: Mynydd Llangeinwyr
Significance: Highest peak in Bridgend (Present-Day Principal Area). Previously within Historic County of Glamorgan.
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Craig y Llyn
Elevation: 568m
Date climbed: June 24th 2019
Coordinates: 51.6412°N 3.5726°W
Route Start / End: Out and back from parking place on A4107
Route Distance: 2.6 km (1.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 68m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0732 - Llangeinor
Map: OS Explorer Map (166) Rhondda and Merthyr Tydfil
Links: Wikipedia (Bridgend), Wikipedia (Mynydd Llangeinwyr), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

We visited Werfa on the way back home from the Western Wales County Top trip. Having conquered both Plynlimon and Foel Cwmceryn in 1 day we had a spare morning before heading back home. We researched the Welsh Present-day County Tops we settled on Werfa, the high point of Bridgend. It ticked off our main criteria of being an actual mountain, not far from the M4 and having a Trig Pillar.

Based on other people's trip logs we parked at a layby on the A4107 and took a bearing up through the fields to the Trig just behind a radio transmitter. In a clear day the massive wind turbine would have been a useful target. Low cloud meant that we could see the bottom 10m of it and only when we were already up close.

From the Trig Pillar we followed the access road back down to the road, crossing it and heading North to Crug Yr Afan, another Trig Pillar. In hindsight the parking spot on the road between the two trigs would have been better. The map here shows the route using that spot.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Glamorganshire, WalesComment
Western Wales County Tops

View from Aran Fawddwy

“Remote” and “obscure” are relative terms. If you live in Aberystwyth then Arran Fawddwy, Plynlimon and Foel Cwmcerwyn are all local and accessible peaks. If, like the rest of the us, you don’t then they’re a bugger to get to.

Over my 7 years of County Topping I’d managed to pick off the rest of Wales. Snowdon came first and I’d repeated it several times. The rest of the North was ticked in one trip in 2016, the South in 2014 and all between came on weekend adventures over the years. The final 3 are pretty well spaced out so they could only be done on a road trip rather than a single location adventure. If I’d known earlier that this trip would be such fun I’d have tackled these much earlier.

As is mandatory for all weekend trips now, travel happens on a Friday after work. Saturday starts with the nearest parkrun not yet done. This time is was Dolgellau, a beautiful course along the Afon Mawddach river and Madwddach Trail. The Sustrans signs along the route reminded me that I’d passed through here before on my NCN8 end to end Wales trip in 2010.

Arran Fawddwy

Significance: Highest peak in Merionethshire (Historic CT)
Member of: Hewitt, Marilyn, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Snowdon. NHN = Peak 931
Elevation: 907m
Date climbed: June 22nd 2019
Coordinates: 52.7880° N, 3.6881° W
Route Start / End: Out and back from Llanuwchllyn, LL23 7TR
Route Distance: 18.2k / (11.3 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 898m
Subsidiary tops on route: Arran Benllyn (885m), Erw y Ddafad-ddu (872m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0865 - Aran Fawddwy
Map: OS Explorer Map OL23 Cadair Idris & Llyn Tegid
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Merionethshire), Wikipedia (Aran Fawddwy), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Llanuwchllyn, our start point for the Arran Fawddwy, walk was only 20 minutes from Dolgellau so we were on the trail by 11:00. We were lucky with the weather and had a the most amazing sunny day with clear skies and view for miles. The 360° view from the summit was a rare prize amongst so many cloudy summit days in my Welsh trekking experience.

Arran Fawddwy is a long but easy trek with only a small bit of scrambling in the last 20 minutes. It’s quiet up there too. At 2976 feet it narrowly misses out on being in the Welsh 3000s and the nearby Cadair Idris gets much more attention. If it wasn’t for it being a County Top I’d likely never have gone there either. That would have been a shame as this was one of my most enjoyable UK hikes in several years.

Once off the mountain we drove an hour South to the YHA at Borth. I didn’t know what to expect when I booked this one. My friend who was in charge of accommodation booking had made such an arse of it, I had to take over with only a month to go. This one was booked on the only criteria that it was near Plynlimon and still available.

As it turned out, Borth was a hidden gem. It’s an old Seaside resort that missed the memo about the need to become cheap and tacky. Our room in the YHA was spacious and had a sea view. Dinner in the seafront Victoria Inn and a beach walk back topped off a perfect adventure day in Wales.

Plynlimon

Also known as: Pumlumon Fawr
Significance: Highest peak in Cardiganshire (Historic CT), High Point of the Preserved County of Dyfed and the Principal area of Ceredigion
Member of: Hewitt, Marilyn, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Pen Y Fan. NHN = Craig Cwm Amarch
Elevation: 752m
Date climbed: June 23rd 2019
Coordinates: 52.4675°N 3.7828°W
Route Start / End: Out and back from parking place on Nant-y-Moch eastern road plus a loop of Pumlumon Fach
Route Distance: 7.7 km (4.8 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 400m
Subsidiary tops on route: Pumlumon Fach (664m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: none
OS Trig Pillar: TP5480 - Plynlimon
Map: OS Explorer Map (213) Aberystwyth and Cwm Rheidol for Plynlimon
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Cardiganshire), Wikipedia (Plynlimon), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Plynlimon is just a few miles as the crow flies from Borth. We were driving though so it took a winding 45 minute trip so many hairpin bends and a route around the Nant-y-Moch reservoir.

The start of the trail is a small parking spot on the Maesnant road where it meets a farm track. There's 2 options from here: an out and back following the Maesnant stream or a circuit of the Pumlumon Fach. As we were following Jonny Muir's guide an wanted a more interesting route. We opted for the circular plus a couple of detours to bag the summits of Pumlumon Fach and an unnamed peak nearby.

Plynlimon was a much shorter trek than yesterday's Arran Fawddwy trip so we were back down by lunchtime and quickly on the road towards Newport YHA. Even with a short stop to bag a bonus Trig Pillar near Cardigan we arrived at the YHA by 15:00. I'd not read the check-in instructions so didn't realise that we were 2 hours too early. We could get a whole other mountain bagged in that time.

Foel Cwmcerwyn

Significance: Highest peak in Pembrokeshire (Historic County and Welsh Principal Area), Pembrokeshire Coast National Park High Point
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Plynlimon. NHN = Garreg Lwyd
Elevation: 536m
Date climbed: June 23rd 2019
Coordinates: 51°56′44″N 4°46′29″W
Route Start / End: Out and back from parking place on B4329
Route Distance: 6 km (3.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 135m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP5522 - Prescelly
Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer OL35 North Pembrokeshire
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Pembrokeshire), Wikipedia (Foel Cwmcerwyn), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

By the time wed reached the parking spot for Foel Cwmcerwyn it was proper rainy. The summit was apparently not far away but we couldn't see anything. Sticking to the GPS route and a straightforward path we arrived at the Trig Point in under and hour. The completion of the Welsh County Tops was a bit of an anticlimax in a damp field with views stretching across the nearest 15 metres.


Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Snowdonia, National Park, Merionethshire, Cardiganshire, Pembrokeshire, Glamorganshire, WalesComment
Cycling Sant Pere Màrtir, Barcelona
View across Barcelona from the trails

View across Barcelona from the trails

Start / Finish: Sant Just Desvern, Barcelona, Spain
Distance: 15.2 km (9.4 miles)
Elevation Change: +/- 400m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (cycle): PRC-164, PRC-171, Carretera de les Aigües

This was the first of 2 unexpected micro-adventures on a business trip to Barcelona. Timi was there for a conference and I tagged along on a combo of working-from-hotel and a Friday off. While we were there we caught up with an old friend from work who now lives in the city. I didn't think twice when he offered to take me on a evening's ride in the nearby mountains.

I've been to Barcelona a few times and always loved it. Its has the right mix of culture, coast, city and access to mountains. It's always been a potential future place to live and this trip only reconfirmed that.

The ride started in Sant Just Desvern, a suburb to the west of the city. From here you can be off road and climbing the trails within 15 minutes. My friend knew the route well and I was in the rare situation of just following along and not really knowing where we were heading. By KM 5 were were up on the Carretera de les Aigües with outstanding views over the city.

From here there's loads of options including a longer route to Mt Tibidabo. Instead we chose to climb Sant Pere Màrtir, the nearest peak before heading back. Its not a summit you can't easily miss as the giant transmitter can be seen for miles.

By the time we reached the top it was dark and I wimped out of cycling the steep 100m first section on the other side. The combo of my weird nervousness of slipping, the dark and my lack of helmet all kicked in. Beyond that first section the rest of the descent was an amazing ride back through the trails, mountain roads and town to the start.

Richard gowerCycle, Mountain, SpainComment
Walking in South Mauritius

I was preparing to get bored on Mauritius. It was our big holiday and this time it was Timi's choice as I had chosen Peru last year. Timi wanted a more relaxing beachy holiday and Mauritius ended up top of the list. It looked lovely in the brochure but it didn't look like there would be a lot of adventure to be had. I was wrong.

The island is well known as a honeymoon destination but there's loads to keep the adventurous busy. After the first week of relaxing and driving around the North-Western part we had worked out what to do for week 2.

We already knew that our hotel for the 2nd week was close to the island's highest mountain. We just didn't know how easy it would be to get there. One interesting blog post about it had a link to one of the big travel companies there. On enquiring about the trip it would be 60 Euro per person plus another 60 for transport from the hotel.

It was a lot of money and we asked our travel rep at the hotel if they had options for the same trip. A couple overheard us and came over after to give us some advice. They had been up the peak the day before without a guide and found it very easy. They had also seen many other walkers on the route without guides.

I wrote back to the travel company to let them know that we didn't need their services. Then followed an amusing e-mail chain where the company rep's attitude quickly changed from pleasant to threatening. They said that it was dangerous and illegal to trek in Mauritius without a guide. When I asked for them to point me towards evidence of this they told me to "Google myself". So I did. One connection was to a guy who wrote a great blog on Mauritian treks. He explained that there was no law about local guides. Many of the routes are not dangerous but some go through private land. The advantage of a guide would be to steer you in the right direction. Other than that, there's little advantage if you're an experienced walker.

I also found the contact details for the Mauritius Office of Tourism. Nothing on their website referenced the need to use a guide. I e-mailed them to explain the situation but no reply came. So, we we pretty sure that we didn't need a guide but not 100% so we took a risk and did it ourselves anyway.

Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire

Significance: Highest peak in Mauritius
Elevation: 828m
Date climbed: 11th October 2018
Coordinates: 20° 24' 32'' S, 57° 24' 29'' E
Route Start / End: out and back from lay-by on Plaine Champagne Road, just west of Gorges Viewpoint Parking
Route Distance: 6.7 km (4.3 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 241m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee

Piton de la Riveire Petite Noire is the highest mountain in the country. There was an option of walking there from our hotel, approaching from the South-West. Instead, taking advantage of our rental car, we drove to the more popular start near the Black River Gorges Car Park. The best option is to park in the lay-by West of the Car Park, starting you much closer to the trail.

The trail is very easy to follow and very little chance of going wrong. Much of it cuts through dense trees with a few gaps to see the view. For most of the route its not particularly steep either. The main hazard is the combination of mud and tree roots. We went on a dry day following a few days of rain and it was fine. It would be a lot trickier under much wetter conditions.

The final 10 minutes is much steeper although there are ropes in places to help you up. One rope was tied to a tree that had fallen over and I wasn't completely confident that it was anchored properly. It held fine and we were up to the top in no time. This would only part where you would need a guide for safety reasons. Even so, compared with the trickier parts of many UK mountains, it's pretty straight-forward.

The summit rewards you with amazing 360° views over the South of the island. Le Morne Mountain to the South-East is particularly enticing from the angle. It was here that we decided to climb that one too a few days later.

On the descent, following the same route, we counted up how many people we had passed on the trail. For the full walk there were 25 people in 10 groups of which only 3 groups had a guide. Having tested the route for myself I can't see any reason to use a guide unless you're really inexperienced or the guide has amazing stories to tell along the way.

map below: Trailhead at Gorges Viewpoint Parking

Le Morne Mountain

Elevation: 556m
Date climbed: 13th October 2018
Coordinates: 20° 27' 10 S, 57° 18' 60 E
Route Start / End: out and back from parking at Le Morne Trail Entrance on the south of the peninsula
Route Distance: 7.3 km (4.5 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 560m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee

Inspired by our easy conquest of the country high-point, we set off for Morne Mountain 2 days later. This was the walk where most articles suggested that having a guide was either mandatory or highly recommended. The 2 reasons for this are the steepness of some sections and that some of the route goes through private property. Taking the advice of the couple we'd met in the hotel earlier in the week we decided to try it ourselves.

Parking for the walk is easy to find on the South Side of the Morne Peninsular. You need to sign in at the control booth by the gate. There were a couple of employees in the booth but neither seemed bothered about either checking or helping people.

From the trail-head the first 3 km is a gradual easy ascent on wide paths. This takes you to a fence and a gate which marks the entrance to the private area. I'd read stories of people either being turned away or charged an entrance fee for going past this point. On the day we went the gate was open and no-one was around so we passed straight through. This is a good point to make a decision whether to attempt the full climb or call it a day. From here you can see the steep part and several people we spoke to had decided they weren't fit or brave enough to go further.

A few minutes past the gate you'll reach the Chimney. This is a steep high-sided section that's the hardest part of the route. Normally there's ropes on either side but these had been removed for maintenance. There's lots of rocks and routes to hold on to though and we found it easy to help each other up. I definitely would not have attempted this on a wet day as the descent through it would be treacherous.

Even if it wasn’t for the sharp edges, this is not a route to rush through. There’s an amazing view out of every angle. On a clear day like the one we had you can see for miles and get a great perspective on the underwater waterfall next to the peninsula.

The walking route ends by a big metal cross. The actual summit can only be accessed with climbing gear and proper experience. We had neither but it’s hard to be disappointed with a finish as spectacular as this. The Cross was rammed with people queuing for the best selfie positions. We found a quiet rock, waited patiently for our turn whilst taking a breather, then started our descent.

We took our time on the way down as we negotiated the tricky parts of the chimney. We were thankful that we didn’t take a guide so that we could have the walk to ourselves. Observing some of the other trekkers on the way up though, it was clear that some people should have taken a guide. Some were clearly not fit enough, others poorly dressed, one was carrying a baby and some had no water with them. If all a guide did was tell them to be better prepared, then there’s definitely a reason to use them.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not certainly against guides in general. They play an important part of the local travel economy, especially in developing countries. I had some amazing experiences with guides on Kilimanjaro, the Inca Trail and the Balkans. In these trips the guides kept us safe, informed us on local history and were great ambassadors for their countries. My problem is with companies, like the one I battled with in Mauritius. They try to exploit tourists with “mandatory" guides for simple trips like Piton de la Riveire Petite Noire. We were happy to save the money this time and spend it on bigger tips for locals who really deserved it.

Far from being just a honeymoon destination, I discovered a wonderfully diverse, fun and adventurous island that would be high on my list of places to return to.

More on the web:

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Coast, Mauritius, Country High Points, Island High PointsComment
High Peaks of the Balkans

I’d seen the ad for this trip on Facebook about a year ago. It ticked all the right boxes to get me over-excited. 4 new countries, the highest peak in each, and a new airport. What's not to like? I signed up straight away expecting to rope in a few friends along the way. No chance ... 1 or 2 showed interest but came up with excuses like no money, lack of approval from the wife or “just had a baby”. Meh.

So, 1 year later I turned up at Tirana airport on my own looking for others with KE Adventures bags. I had the cunning plan of wearing my KE shirt so I could be spotted by others. All that did was make them think that I was their official guide for the week and I ended up carrying bags around. Once gathered together with our actual guide we started the 4 hour transfer to the first night's accommodation.

As it turned out, the other 11 in the group were lovely and all interesting people. KE seems to attract the more serious walker and adventure-seeker. All had incredible stories of previous trips and with none of the one-upmanship that comes with some groups. By the end of the trip I’d compiled a long list of future trips and kit advice.

Day 1: Mt Korab

Significance: Highest peak in both Albania and (FYRO) Macedonia
Elevation: 2,764 m
Date climbed: July 1st 2018
Coordinates: 41.7901° N, 20.5471° E
Route Start / End: Circular route from Hotel Korabi, Radomirë, Albania
Route Distance: 17.2 km (10.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 1,527m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Web: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korab_(mountain)

One of the things I loved about the trip was how much was packed into each day. Day 1 was no exception with a 06:00 wake up call for the trek to Mt Korab, the high point of both Albania and Macedonia. This was the highest of the 3 summits on the trip and a long day at 9 hours. It was a nice warm-up and a chance to get to know the rest of the group and our guide Geri a bit better. We climbed up from the Albanian side then had lunch in Macedonia over-looking Mavrovo National Park. The return was more or less the same as the ascent, with a nice diversion through a forest and meadows. After a quick celebratory Albanian beer we set off on 3 hour bus transfer to the Kosovan city of Junik.

Day 2: Đeravica

Significance: Highest peak in Kosovo
Elevation: 2,656 m
Date climbed: July 2nd 2018
Coordinates: 42.5318° N, 20.1399° E
Route Start / End: Point to point route from Gropa e Ereniku to Dobërdol
Route Distance: 15.9 km (9.9 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +1,053m / -947m. Net 106m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Web: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deravica

Kosovo was a pleasant surprise. My only awareness of it was from grim news reports from the 90s. I’d tried not to have any expectations, just an excitement from being able to tick off a new country, and an obscure one at that. Following our last comfortable night for a few days we took a bumpy 4x4 trip to a remote valley to start of our 4 day trek.

After the gentle initial ascent of Korab, today’s climb got steep quickly. The post-lunch scramble reminded me a bit of the Barranco Wall on Kilimanjaro. Once at the summit I was more hesitant to climb on top of the trig-like pillar than on Korab due to the high winds and steeper sides. Fortunately there was a flag pole to grip onto and attempt to look vaguely heroic.

After the initial descent from the summit, the rest of the trek continued north-west, re-entering Albania after traversing a steep sided valley. A large ice field tested my long held nervousness of slipping. The more experienced of the group trudged straight across it while I followed Geri on a longer steadier route.

From the Kosovo/Albania border on the final pass, the end of the day’s walk was a pleasant wander down the Alpine Valley to the farm where we stayed for the night. This was to be the most basic of the guest houses: a single barn floor with a row of mattresses. The 3 snorers in the group, of which I was one, took the option of a separate barn 5 mins up the valley. Although intended as a gift for the others, we ended up with the better deal with a cosier barn and better toilet.

Day 3: Dobërdoll to Çerem

Elevation: from 1,800m to 1,220m
Date walked: July 3rd 2018
Route Start / End: Point to point route from Dobërdol to Çerem, Albania
Route Distance: 17 km (10.5 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +418m / -994m. Net -576m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee


Day 3 was a break from the summits with a gentler plateau walk, mostly descending, from 1,791m to ~1,200m. The route crossed the Albania/Montenegro border several times a highlight being our lunch stop on a hill with views across to Zla Kolata.

Accommodation that evening was a pleasant but basic guesthouse in Çerem. We were amongst around 50 guests squeezed into the main house plus a few outbuildings. The good news was that it had a shower, but with just 1 for 50 sweaty walkers, there was a bit of a queue. Dinner arrangements were impressive as one lady in a small shed managed to serve up a hearty meal for everyone in 1 sitting.

Day 4: Zla Kolata

Significance: Highest peak in Montenegro
Elevation: 2,564 m
Date climbed: July 4th 2018
Coordinates: 42.4850° N, 19.8972° E
Route Start / End: Point to point route from Çerem, Albania to wild campsite on south side of Zla Kolata
Route Distance: 17.1 km (10.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +1,457m / -1,148m. Net -309m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Web: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zla_Kolata

By avoiding the screening of the World Cup quarter final nonsense I managed to get an early night. It was just as well as the next day was epic. This was Zla Kolata, the High Point of Montenegro. It was a monster.

The morning was a nice ascent through forests and meadows up to pass on the Albania/Montenegro border. We stopped for an hour for lunch while Geri met up with 2 local guides who would help us on the summit climb. I spent much of that hour looking up at the ascent in fear. From there it all looked like sheer cliff faces and steep ice.

Most of the actual ascent was fine. Taking it step-by-step tends to be much less daunting than from a distance anyway. The tricky bit was not far from the top where the only passing point on an icy ridge was a thin, rocky ledge with a long drop below it. My slipping fear was kicking in but I pressed on, helped enormously by the local guides.

For the final push to the top we were down to 8, with 5 of the group having decided they had met their limits. The final 20 mins was a steep, but relatively easy and mostly grassy scramble to the summit. It was well worth the effort as we were rewarded by clear 360 degree views of both countries. It was a good competitor to Toubkhal for the best summit view I’ve had so far.

The descent to the pass was the same route, although several bits were tougher than I remembered on the way up. I held back to keep fellow trekker Stephen company. He had been struggling with his feet since the first day and was slowed down due to the pain of red raw toes. To be honest, I was also glad of the slower pace to take my time on the steep parts.

With no villages close to the mountain, we wild camped that night. I enjoyed the best night‘s sleep in a tent for many years. In the morning we left the camp site for the final descent to the Valbona Valley. It was a short day ending at a very nice guest house for some beer, rest, reading and a celebration on completing a challenging 3-country trek.

Day 5: Zla Kolata to Valbonë

Elevation: from 1,486m to 960m
Date walked: July 5th 2018
Route Start / End: Point to point route from wild camp site south of Zla Kolata to Valbonë, Albania
Route Distance: 11.2 km (7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +424m / -962m. Net -538m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee

The final couple of days of the trip were more restful with a boat & bus transfer back to Tirana and some free time in the city. This trip was epic: a perfect combination of an awe-inspiring adventure, expert organisation and fantastic company. My first action after returning was to check the KE brochure for the next adventure....

LEFT: All 5 days: Mt Korab to the South East and Djerevica/Kolata trek to the centre North

ABOVE: Djerevica/Kolata from right to left. Green = Day 2: Djerevica, Blue = Day 3: plateau walk, Red = Day 4: Zla Kolata, Yellow = Day 5: Valbone descent

Richard gowerTrek, Country High Points, Mountain, Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo, MontenegroComment
Gragareth: Lancashire Present-Day County Top
Three Men of Gragareth

Three Men of Gragareth

Significance: Present Day County Top of Lancashire
Member of: Hewitt
Parent Peak: Great Coum. NHN = Crag Hill
Historic County: Lancashire (of which Old Man of Coniston is the County Top)
Elevation: 628m
Date climbed: 11th June 2018
Coordinates: 54.2085° N, 2.4814° W

Route Start / End: Circular from Leck Fell House
Route Distance: 5 km (3.1 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 207m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP3427 - Gragareth Fell
OS Map: Yorkshire Dales Map | Southern & Western | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL2
Guidebook: Guidebook: Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Lancashire), Wikipedia (Gragareth), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a sneaky bonus tick. After a weekend in the Lake District tackling the Old Man and Helvellyn we were heading home. The trip is nearly 5 hours at best so I was looking for a convenient mountain en route to break up the trip. Gragareth fitted the bill as it was a decent mountain and only 15 minutes off the M6. It was also pretty obscure and, on a Monday morning, we had the walk to ourselves.

The best place to start the walk is from a small parking bay just before the gate to Leck Fell House. Go through this gate and the second gate on the junction before the driveway for the farm. After this you’re on Yorkshire Dales Open Access land. 

The first part is fairly straightforward. Continue along the path beyond the gate, keeping to the right side of the wall. After ~1 km, there’s a path (according to the map I was using) that doubles back roughly southwards up across the hill. We couldn’t see any path so just followed the GPS direction across some very rocky lava flow-like patches. At the top of the hill you’ll get to the Three Men Of Gragareth. From here, head east and follow an actual path all the way to the summit.

The summit is a black Trig point on a large plateau with views to Whernside. From here, take the path heading south(ish) towards a stone wall. Don’t climb over the ladder, but continue following the wall all the way to the 2nd gate by Leck Fell House.

Despite not being the most exciting walk in the world, it’s a pleasant diversion from a long drive home from the Lakes.

There’s some dispute about the high point in Present-Day Lancashire. Peakbagger lists Gragareth as the high point at 628 meters (2060 feet) and Green Hill at 627 meters (2057 feet). Hillbagging has Gragareth at the same height but shows Green Hill at 628.2 metres (2061 feet). Even so, Hillbagging has the comment “Lancashire county top transferred to hill 2793 Gragareth in 2014. All higher ground on Green Hill is in Cumbria. Bridge summit 560m S at SD701815. Nuttall summit at SD701820”. In David Bathurst’s book, Walking The High Points of England, he shows Gragareth at 627 metres (2056 feet) and Green Hill at 628 metres (2059 feet). Wikipedia has similar elevations to David’s book with Gragareth at 627 m (2,057 ft) and Green Hill at 628 m (2,060 ft).

Elevations in the list are based on Peakbagger.

OTHER HIGH POINTS IN LANCASHIRE

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Lancashire, EnglandComment
Helvellyn: Westmorland County Top
Striding Edge

Striding Edge

Significance: Highest peak in Westmorland (Historic CT)
Member of: Furth, Marilyn, Hewitt, Nuttall, Wainwright, Birkett
Parent Peak: Scafell Pike
Elevation: 950m
Date climbed: 10th June 2018
Coordinates: 54.5268° N, 3.0172° W
Route Start / End: Circular from Patterdale Hotel, A592, Penrith, CA11 0NN
Route Distance: 14.7 km (9.1 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 848m
Subsidiary tops on route: High Spying How (Striding Edge: 863m), Catstye Cam (890m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Coast to Coast Walk (St Bees to Shap), The Ullswater Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP3724 - Helvellyn
Map: OS Explorer OL5: The English Lakes North Eastern Area
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Westmorland), Wikipedia (Helvellyn), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

We did Helvellyn in the same trip as Old Man of Coniston. This was a long weekend in the Lakes to complete the Historic County Tops in the area. We would have also included Scafell Pike if I hadn’t already done it several times and, after the last one, decided to never go back.

Helvellyn is an icon of the Lake District and often considered to be one of England’s best walks. We had a great time on outperform trek there so I can relate to those reviews. We started at the hotel next to the Patterdale Hotel and followed the track that follows the route of the St Bees to Shap section of the Coast to Coast Walk.

When ascending in this clockwise direction you’ll approach the summit via Striding Edge. I’m not a big fan of ridges like these but this was a lot of fun. We had the advantage of good visibility and dry conditions. However, the weather forecasted rain soon so we didn’t hang around too much. That was just as well as an icy downpour started just as we reached the plateau at the summit. We got a good view of walkers behind us getting drenched.

From the Trig Pillar at the summit we saw mini cyclones in the distance and rapidly moving clouds. Fortunately they were moving away from us so we had avoided much of day’s rain. After lunch at the summit we continued our clockwise route, descending via Swirral Edge. It’s another challenging route, but not as tricky as Striding Edge and easier to do as a descent. Even so, the route was now very wet so we took it easy.

Once off Swiral Edge (which I always misremember as Squirrel Edge), we were back in easy terrain, following the path back to the Patterdale Hotel

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Westmorland, Mountain, Lake District, National Park, EnglandComment
Old Man of Coniston: Lancashire County Top
IMG_7318.jpg

View to Low Water

Also known as: Coniston Old Man
Significance: Highest Peak in Lancashire (Historic CT)
Member of: Hewitt, Marilyn, Nuttall, Wainwright, Aetherius Society Holy Mountains
Parent Peak: Scafell Pike. NHN = Crinkle Crags-South Top
Elevation: 803m
Date climbed: 09/06/2018
Coordinates: 54.3701° N, 3.1199° W
Route Start / End: Circular from Holly How YHA, Coniston
Route Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 728m
Subsidiary tops on route: Brim Fell (796m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP2382 - Coniston Old Man
OS Map: Outdoor Leisure 6: The English Lakes South Western Area
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Lancashire), Wikipedia (Old Man of Coniston), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

We did the Old Man of Coniston in the same trip as Helvellyn . This was a long weekend in the Lakes to complete the Historic County Tops in the area. We would have also included Scafell Pike if I hadn’t already done it several times and, after the last one, decided to never go back.

We were staying in the YHA Coniston Holly How so had the advantage of doing a circular trek from the door of the hostel. An alternative start point is the Old Station Car Park in the centre of Coniston.

We took the footpath on the north side of the YHA to join another path heading in a south-westerly direction around the edge of Round Haw and Mouldry Bank. This curves to a north-westerly direction roughly following the course of the Red Dell Beck stream. Don't follow this all the way though as you'll need to take the paths that lead you to Levers Water.

Continue around the southern edge of Levers Water ascending to the west until you meet a path that connects Great How Crags with the Old Man of Coniston summit. Take a left onto this path and follow it in a southerly direction to the summit.

After the summit continue on the path to the south-east (not the path that leads directly south). This will curve to the north-east as you descend to the north-east corner of Low Water. From here take the easterly path for ~2km until you meet the Church Beck stream. Continue along this path following the stream as it curves to the south-east and leads you to Coniston town centre.

If you're staying at the YHA it's less than 1km up Yewdale Road from Coniston Town centre.

OTHER HIGH POINTS IN Lancashire

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Lake District, National Park, Lancashire, EnglandComment
Not Walking to Teide and Alto de Garajonay
Mt Teide

Mt Teide

Mt Teide

Significance: High point of Tenerife, The Canary Islands and Spain
Summit height: 3,717m
Highest point reached: 3,555m
Guidebook: Europe’s High Points (Cicerone)

I don’t remember much about visiting Mt Teide. I’ve definitely been before, at least to the bottom of the Teleferico (cable car). Judging from the old photos it must have been about 35 years ago.

I do remember talking with my dad about going up again when I was an early teenager. This was in my less adventurous days and I was scared when my dad told me that the air would be thinner up there. I had this fear that it would be too thin for him and he would have a heart attack. I realised today that he would have been about the same age as I am now ... which I’ve now decided is really really young.

So, on my first trip back in over 20 years and with a well developed adventure obsession, I had to make it to the top. I’d made all the plans: permit, pre booked tickets, all the right clothing. The only problem was that it was February and the trail from the upper cable car station was shut due to ice.

Despite the near miss of reaching the summit, Timi and I had an amazing day. We ticked off the Teide National Park UNESCO site and got some amazing photos of the peak and Los Roques de Garcia before the clouds came down.

I was a bit disappointed in not getting to the top but February is always a risk. It’s was the same reason we didn’t get to Mt Olympus in Cyprus 3 years ago. After all, our mission for the week was to have a relaxing end of winter break, not to get to the summit. Anway, I figured that we would have better luck climbing Alto de Garajonay on Friday.

IMG_0842.JPG

Alto de Garajonay

Significance: High point of La Gomera
Summit height: 1,487m
Highest point reached: 1,250m

Whilst a Teide trip is simple to organise, La Gomera is trickier. We wanted a 1 day trip from where we were staying in Costa Adeje, Tenerife. I started researching 6 weeks before. The first company that I emailed obviously hadn’t got the knack of using computers. After 2 weeks with no reply to my enquiry I emailed again. Apparently their reply was stuck in their draft folder. They sent me as brief an email as they could muster, so I replied with a few basic questions. No response.

With a bit more research I found another company that had a few interesting trekking options on their website. I picked one and paid online, giving all the details they asked for, including the hotel where we were staying it. It was a good sign that I got a response straight away, but strange that they were asking me again where I was staying. I told them our hotel name and within minutes got a refund with a blunt email saying I that I could not join the trip as I was not staying on the island. After a bit of back and forth with me trying to explain how god customer service works, I gave up.

Attempt #3 was prompted by an email from my hotel asking if there was anything they could do to help with our upcoming stay. They even had an Experience Centre with a dedicated email address. I wrote to them to explain what we wanted to do on La Gomera. No reply. Was the island was actively trying to discourage tourists? By now I’d given up hope of making arrangements in advance and decided to chill out and sort out when I got to Tenerife.

Once we’d arrived at the hotel and settled in Timi and I went to the hotel’s Experience Centre to ask about La Gomera. Having not quite got to the top of Teide we were determined to bag at least one island summit. I asked whether the jeep safari they offered would go to Alto de Garajonay, the highest point on the island. The guy made a phone call and confirmed that yes, it definitely did. Result.

On the day of the trip we were picked up early and taken on the ferry from Los Cristianos to San Sebastián de la Gomera. Soon after arriving the jeep convoy stopped at a nearby viewpoint and the main guide explained the day’s agenda. It all sounded great but was a bit odd that he didn’t mention to stop at the summit. I asked him about it... “no, unfortunately we don’t go there, it’s a bit of a hike and no tour company goes there.” I was, as you could imagine, not amused.

The tour itself was OK but not special and certainly nothing to make up for the lack of summiting. We did the usual stops for the Aloe Vera Farm, Banana Plantation, local lunch and Botanical Gardens. All fairly interesting but not worth the money we’d paid for, especially as I’d been there before. So close.

Back at the hotel I made sure they understood my frustration and eventually got my money back. I’ll spare you the details here as my Tripadvisor review explains it well.

So, the learning for La Gomera is not to go with an excursion if you want to get to the high point. Don’t believe anyone who tells you they go there unless you’re sure they completely understand that Alto de Garajonay doesn’t mean just the National Park that surrounds it. You may have better luck than I did with a local company on Gomera, just don’t expect good customer service.

We plan to go back but we’ll organise it ourselves now that we know what to do and where to go. The best plan seems to be to go by ferry on foot and hire a car on La. Gomera. Our first plan had been to take our Tenerife based rental car over on the ferry, then we found out that most rental companies don’t allow it. The island roads from the port to the national park are good and there’s several parking spots around the trail to the summit. We will probably stay on the island for a few days and check out the many other trails too.

IMG_6159.JPG

So close

Roque de Agando - volcanic plug, a highlight of the centre of La Gomera

Roque de Agando - volcanic plug, a highlight of the centre of La Gomera

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Country High Points, Spain, Canary Islands, Island High PointsComment
Peak District County Tops

On the Pennine Way between Black Chew Head and Black Hill

Our Peak District trip was the latest in what was now becoming an annual County Top bagging long weekend. We based ourselves at YHA Castleton and did day trips to conquer the historic and some present day county tops in the area.

First up wit Kinder Scout, the County Top of Derbyshire and the hugest peak in the area. We started from the car park at Edale station and too an anti clockwise route taking in Grindslow Knoll and Crowden Tower. We had to divert from the route to find the actual summit. With low visibility, drizzly rain and an ambiguous high point we relied on following a GPS bearing. With no Trig Pillar or obvious summit market we decided that the big stick on a clump was the summit and declared victory.

Although neither an historic nor present day County Top, Mam Tor was too iconic to miss. It was also close to our YHA and a quick and easy Trig Point bag, so we ticked it off in the way to Cheeks Hill.

This was the underwhelming peak of the trip. The high point of the historic county of Staffordshire is a short walk across boggy ground to a lonely corner of the county market by a sheep pen. One for County Top completists but at least it’s in the way to Shining Tor. This one makes up for the underwhelm of Cheeks Hill. It’s a short walk but rewarded by a Trig Pillar and good views on a clear day.

We saved the best walk for last on this trip. In one 8 mile walk you get an historic county top, a present day one and a scenic section of the Pennine Way. This was a point to point walk but we had the advantage of having 2 cars between the group so we could do a 2 car shuffle. We left one in a lay-by on the A635 and parked the other at our starting point at Crowden. For much of the walk we followed the Pennine Way, with a diversion after 3 km to visit Black Chew Head. If Black Hill is all you’re interested in then an out and back from the A635 is simpler.

Kinder Scout

Significance: Highest peak in Derbyshire (Historic CT), Peak District National Park High Point
Member of: Marilyn, Hewitt, Hardy, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Cross Fell. NHN = Fountains Fell South Top
Elevation: 636m
Date climbed: 23rd September 2017
Coordinates: 53°23′0″N 1°52′2″W 

Route Start / End: Car park at Edale Train Station, anti-clockwise circular route via Grindslow Knoll, Crowden Tower and back via Jacobs Ladder
Route Distance: 14 km (8.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 480m
Subsidiary tops on route: Grindslow Knoll
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Pennine Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: OS Explorer OL1 The Peak District - Dark Peak area
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Derbyshire), Wikipedia (Kinder Scout), Peakbagger, Hillbagging, National Trust

Kinder Scout is an icon of the Peak District and extremely popular walk. Strangely though, the summit is amazingly hard to find and most walkers don't stray far from the footpaths to find it. We gave it a good go, taking a bearing from the main trail just west of Pym Chair. After 10 minutes of faffing around we found a pile of stones a stick which may have been the summit. That was good enough for us to call it the peak and celebrate with a 1 kilo, now frozen, gummy bear. 

elevation_profile.jpg

Mam Tor (and Lords Seat)

Significance: N/A
Member of: Dewey
Parent Peak: Kinder Scout. NHN = Lords Seat, then Brown Knoll
Historic County: Derbyshire (of which Kinder Scout is the County Top)
Elevation: 517m
Date climbed: 24th September 2017
Coordinates:  53°20′57″N 1°48′38″W

Route Start / End: Mam Nick Car Park, Sparrowpit, Buxton, S33 8WA
Route Distance: 4.2 km (2.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 145m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP4623 - Mam Tor
Map: OS Explorer OL1 The Peak District - Dark Peak area
Links (Mam Tor): Wikipedia, Peakbagger, Hillbagging, National Trust
Links (Lords Seat): Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Cheeks Hill

Also known as: Cheeks Hill-South Slope
Significance: Highest peak in Staffordshire (Historic CT)
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Shining Tor. NHN = Whetstone Ridge
Elevation: 520m
Date climbed: 24th September 2017
Coordinates: 53°13′31″N 1°57′44″W

Route Start / End: Where Dane Valley Way crosses country road between A53 and A54
Route Distance: 1.5 km ( 0.9 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 25m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Dane Valley Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: OS Explorer OL24 The Peak District
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Cheeks Hill), Peakbagger, Hillbagger

A competitor for the least interesting County Top prize at less than 1 mile and 30 metres of ascent. Only makes sense if done whilst in the area.

IMG_5156.JPG
elevation_profile - Cheeks Hill.jpg

Shining Tor

Significance: Highest peak in Cheshire (Present Day CT), Cheshire East Unitary Authority High Point
Member of: Marilyn, Dewey
Parent Peak: Black Hill. NHN = Brown Knoll
Historic County: Cheshire (of which Black Hill is the County Top)
Elevation: 559m
Date climbed: 24th September 2017
Coordinates:  53°15′39″N 2°00′34″W

Route Start / End: Car park of Peak View Tea Rooms, A537
Route Distance: 3.3 km (2.0 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 75m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP5950 - Shining Tor
Map: OS Explorer OL24 The Peak District
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Cheshire), Wikipedia (Cheshire East), Wikipedia (Shining Tor), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Black Chew Head

Significance Highest peak in Greater Manchester (Present Day CT), Oldham Unitary Authority High Point
Member of: Dewey
Parent Peak: Black Hill. NHN = Black Hill
Historic County: Yorkshire (of which Mickle Fell is the County Top)
Elevation: 542m
Coordinates: 53°30′57.96″N 1°55′17.76″W
Links: Wikipedia (Greater Manchester), Wikipedia (Oldham), Wikipedia (Black Chew Head), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Black Hill

Significance Highest peak in Cheshire (Historic CT), West Yorkshire (Present Day CT), Kirklees Unitary Authority High Point
Member of: Marilyn, Dewey
Parent Peak: Kinder Scout. NHN = Bleaklow Head
Elevation: 582m
Coordinates: 53°32′18″N 1°52′53″W
OS Trig Pillar: TP3980 - Holme Moss
Links: Wikipedia (Cheshire), Wikipedia (West Yorkshire), Wikipedia (Kirklees), Wikipedia (Black Hill), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:

Date climbed: 25th September 2017
Route Start / End: Point to point walk along Pennine Way from Crowden to Greenfield Road
Route Distance: 12.9 km (8 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +531m / -296m. Net 235m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: The Pennine Way
Map: OS Explorer OL1 The Peak District - Dark Peak area
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)

Two County Tops for the price of one in a scenic section of the Pennine Way. The 11 km trek started in Crowden, finishing at the junction of the Pennine Way and the A635. A short diversion from the main path at Laddow Rocks takes you up to Black Chew Head, the high point of Greater Manchester and Oldham. It was a clear day and we found it easily. Be extra careful in low visibility, especially when re-joining the Pennine Way as the path follows a cliff-edge here. Black Hill, the (Historic) County Top of Cheshire is right on the Pennine Way path at around 8km into the trip.

elevation_profile.jpg

Other High Points In Cheshire

Other High Points In Derbyshire

Other High Points In Staffordshire

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, National Trust, Peak District, National Park, Derbyshire, Staffordshire, Cheshire, EnglandComment
Walking The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
Walking The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
IMG_4861.JPG

June 12th 2007, Park Hyatt Hotel, Tokyo. It was the last night of a 2-week trip around Japan. I was there with a couple of friends who were on a pre-marriage-and-kids tour of the world. I only had 2 weeks off work and Japan seemed like a cool place to join them.

The Hyatt’s New York Jazz Bar was the obvious place to finish the trip. It was the setting for much of my favourite film, Lost In Translation, so a final drink there would have to happen. The prices looked reasonable for Tokyo too, until I realised that the price per bottle was actually the price per glass. Just the one then...

As we recalled the highlights of the Japan trip we also listed the future trips we’d discussed on the way. Kilimanjaro would be a must... and Machu Picchu (obviously). The next day my friends continued east to Hawaii and I flew back west to London. I was already planning the new trips on the flight home.

Machu Picchu nearly happened 2 years later. My girlfriend and I were researching big holidays and Peru was my favourite at the time. In the end, we opted for Bali instead. That was the trip where my girlfriend, Timi, became my fiancé and she would have been my wife for 7 years by the time the Peru plans came round again.

In the meantime, my Japan trip friends also got married and had 3 children. I’d done Kilimanjaro and all of the other trips from the Hyatt list had been ticked. Machu Picchu was now on top of the list by a very long way.

I prepared myself to be disappointed. I’d wanted the do the Inca Trail for 10 years and I was expecting an anti-climax. I’d also read about the crowds on the trail. It still had to be done though. There was no anti-climax. It was amazing. I’d use the word awesome if it hadn’t been ruined by people using it to describe their dinner on Facebook. Yes, the trail can be crowded and there are lots of ways to do the trip badly, but our experience exceeded all of our expectations.

We took the full 4-day Inca Trail starting from Kilometre 82 at Piscacucho. We were guided by Enigma, the local partner for Audley who organised our 2-week Peru Trip. We wanted a small group experience and, by luck, we ended up with an especially small group of Timi, myself and one guy from the US. It would have been a group of 5 including a couple from Houston but Hurricane Harvey had changed their plans.

Day 1: KM82 to Llulluchapampa

Date: September 2nd 2017
Start: KM 82, 08680, Peru. ~2,600m elevation.
Finish: Llulluchapampa Camp, ~3,800m elevation
Distance: 14.7 km (9.1 miles)
Elevation change: +1,291m / -237m. Net +1,054m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Salkantay Route
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): None

Our trek was planned around avoiding the crowds for much of the trip. The key to this was an earlier start on day 1. This meant a 04:00 pickup from our hotel in Cusco and starting the trek as soon as the KM 82 checkpoint opened. This got us half a day ahead of other trekkers and we had the whole morning on the trail to ourselves.

Following an easy and relatively flat first morning, the afternoon was a steep slog. This part, from Hatunchaca to our campsite at Llulluchampa had an elevation increase of 850m in a couple of hours. 

route-33885939-map-full.png

Day 2: Llulluchapampa to Chaquicocha

Date: September 3rd 2017
Start: Llulluchapampa Camp, ~3,800m elevation
Finish: Sayacmarca Camp, ~3,850m elevation
Distance: 7.5 km (4.6 miles)
Elevation change: +847m / -1,041m. Net -194m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Walk): None
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): None

After breakfast on Day 2 our guide Marco introduced us to our 9 member crew. All were farmers from the local mountains who spend 5 months of the year portering. It's a good job but it means that they don't see their family for most of that time. Many are constantly on the trail, returning to the start for the next group as soon as the last has finished.

The trail is highly regulated with a limit of 200 walkers plus porters per day. There's also high standards for the guiding companies and we were pleased to see them all with good quality clothing and equipment.

Day 2 was billed as the toughest day. We followed an M-shaped elevation starting with a climb to Dead Woman’s Pass, the trail's highest point at 4,200 metres. This was followed by a steep descent then another climb to our campsite at Chaquicocha at 3,500m.

Along the route, Marco told us about the history of the area and the significance of the different Incan ruins along the way. Some were “post offices” which were relay stations to get messages over the mountains. Others were rest stops for Incas on their pilgrimages to Machu Picchu. All of it was brand new to us. We had only heard about Machu Picchu itself before the trip, and even then, only small bits about it. The trail itself is full of history, nature and amazing ruins. Overshadowed by the endpoint, the wonders of the Trail itself are an undiscovered secret to most.

Day 3: Chaquicocha to Winay Wayna

Date: September 4th 2017
Start: Sayacmarca Camp, ~3,850m elevation
Finish: Winay Wayna Camp, ~2,600m elevation
Distance: 6.4 km (3.9 miles)
Elevation change: +124m / -973m. Net -849m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Walk): None
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): None

Day 3 was by far the most enjoyable. It started with a short climb and then followed a ridge with views to Salkantay Mountain. Much of the rest of the morning was a steep descent on slippery Incan steps. Timi had been nervous of this section having had knee problems on steep descents in the past. With a mix of training, turmeric and Coca Tea, she mostly escaped pain this time.

We reached Day 3 camp early in the afternoon. This gave us time to rest before the crowds caught up. As the last camp before the entrance to Machu Picchu and the link with the 2-day trail, it was an especially busy site. While the other groups arrived through the afternoon and early evening we took the opportunity to explore the Winaywayna ruins next to the camp.

Day 4: Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu

Date: September 5th 2017
Start: Winay Wayna Camp, ~2,600m elevation
Finish: Machu Picchu, Carretera Hiram Bingham, Km 7.5 08680, ~4,200m elevation
Distance: 5 km (3.1 miles)
Elevation change: +47m / -561m. Net +541m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Walk): None
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): None

Day 4 was a short day of walking with just 2 hours to Machu Picchu. The checkpoint opens at 05:00 and as everyone wants to get through it early, queues start from 03:00. Once people were let through it was a mad stampede for an hour up to the Sun Gate.

Inki Puku, the Sun Gate, is the first point on the trail where you can see the Machu Picchu ruins. It's so named as it's the spot where, on the summer solstice, the sun's rays come through the gate and light up the temple in the centre of Machu Picchu. Nowadays it's a prime selfie spot as everyone jostles for the right position for their new Facebook profile pic. We didn't spend too long here.

Leaving the crowds behind for a while, we slowly walked down from the Sun Gate, stopping often at less disturbed photo spots. By the time we got to Machu Picchu itself, just before 07:00 it was already busy with day trippers who got the bus up from Aguas Calientes. Most were competing for space at the National Geographic spot for the iconic photo. We were starting to resent the day trippers. We had earned our place there whilst they had just got the bus. Bastards.

The annoyance we had with the other tourists had a lot to do with being tired and feeling grubby. Like the Inca Trail itself, Machu Picchu has its quiet spots despite the crowds. Marco did his best to steer us to the quieter places for our tour of the ruins.

Day 5: Huayna Picchu

As we had a ticket to return the following day we left the ruins after a couple of hours to have a rest and a shower. We are really happy that we did as we could have a more relaxing time at the ruins and find some quieter spots.

Our highlight of our return trip was the 1-hour climb up Huyana Picchu. This is the big central peak you can see behind the ruins in the main photos. Access is even more restricted and, being pretty steep, it's not for the casual visitors. The view from the top gives a different perspective of the ruins and the path we took the day before down from the Sun Gate.

Just before leaving we found a quiet spot on the hill and stared at the ruins below and the peaks rising up above it. I could have stayed there all day. Far from being an anti-climax, it was a perfect moment. Having visualised this moment for 10 years since Tokyo, it was so much more than I hoped for.

The Complete Route

Each colour represents an individual day. Red = Day 1, Blue = Day 2, Green = Day 3, Yellow = Day 4

Each colour represents an individual day. Red = Day 1, Blue = Day 2, Green = Day 3, Yellow = Day 4

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, PeruComment
Goatfell: Buteshire County Top
WRGX1887.jpg

Significance: Highest peak in Buteshire (Historic County Top), North Ayrshire (Council Top), North Arran NSA High Point
Member of: Corbett, Marilyn, Hardy
Parent Peak: N/A
Nearest Higher Neighbour: The Cobbler
Elevation: 874m
Date climbed: 11th and 12th August 2017
Coordinates: 55.6258° N, 5.1919° W

Route Start / End: out and back from Cladach car park
Route Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 829m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Arran Coastal Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 73
OS Trig Pillar: TP3393 - Goat Fell
Map: OS Explorer 361: Isle of Arran
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking on Arran (Cicerone Walking Guide)
Links: Wikipedia (Buteshire), Wikipedia (Arran), Wikipedia (Goat Fell), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

My first time on Arran was 2 years ago on our Lands End to John O'Groats cycle trip. We took the scenic route across the island and over to Kyntire to avoid Glasgow. The island part was only 15 miles but it made that day one of the most memorable. As we skirted past Goatfell, the huge County Top of Buteshire, I knew I'd be back to walk it.

This trip was for our 7th wedding anniversary. With our Inca Trail trip less than a month away, a Goatfell climb was good training. Timi needed to test her both her fitness and her new gear. If she could do Goatfell 2 days running it would be a good sign that we were ready for the Inca's distance and elevation.

The 2 days we picked couldn't have been more different. The first was an overcast, rainy Friday. We didn't see anyone for the first hour and only 10 people the whole trip. Neither could we see the mountain for most of the day. The clouds hung low, revealing the peak once or twice. As we got closer to the summit, most people were coming down not having braved the final steep ascent.

Our plan for day 1 wasn't to reach the top. We wanted to test our waterproofs and get some good descent practice in. Timi has suffered with her knee on steep down-hills in the past. If she was fine now, it would solve our main concern for the Inca Trail. We took it steady and reached the top in under 3 hours. The rain had stopped but the summit was windy so we headed down after a few minutes. Timi's knee held out well and we completed the trip in 5.5 hours.

Day 2 showed us a completely different Goatfell. The sun was out and visibility was as good as I've seen on UK hills. People were out too, with at least 10x more on the route than the day before. The view from the summit was one of the most stunning I've seen. We saw the coast on all sides of the mountain, the mainland back to the east and the Mull of Kyntire to the west.

We finished the day with a beer at the Arran Brewery at the start of the trail, then a walk in the beach opposite. As a training mission, it was a big success. Next stop: Peru.

elevation_profile - Goatfell.jpg

Bonus walk: King’s Cave

Before our ferry trip home we tried the King’s Cave Walk, recommended as one of the top walks on the island. It's a short one at 3 miles / ~2 hours and covers some beautiful views of the west of the island. The cave itself is somewhat underwhelming, but don’t let that put you off as its a great walk even without the cave.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Buteshire, Island High Points, ScotlandComment
Transylvania Road Trip
Transylvania Road Trip
Sibiu

Sibiu

There was an interesting mix of reactions when we told friends and colleagues that we were planning a trip to Transylvania. Some didn’t think that it was a real place and others only associated it with the Dracula story. Most had never been. This was part of what made it an exciting trip for us: Transylvania inspires a real sense of adventure and a promise of stepping back in time, yet still within a few hours flight from London.

We had other reasons to go too. Transylvania is now part of Romania but used to be part of a much larger pre-WW1 Hungary. Timi, my wife, is Hungarian and had told me a few stories, so I wanted to learn more about its complicated history. It also turned out that we’ve got friends who are from there, something we hadn’t really appreciated until we started planning the trip.

The first thing to know is that it's a big place. Transylvania is 10% larger than Hungary itself and around 20% smaller than England. We were only going for a week, so we picked the central region that covered most of the “must-see” places recommended to us.

Statue of Matthias Corvinus, Cluj

Statue of Matthias Corvinus, Cluj

Cluj (Kolozsvar in Hungarian) was a good place to start understanding the Hungarian connection. In the centre of the Old Town, in front of St Michael’s church, stands the statue of Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary in the 15th Century

On our day trip to the Huedin Microregion (Caikszereda in Hungarian) on day 2 we saw some of the Hungarian villages near Cluj. We stopped at a church in Mănăstireni just as the service was ending and were treated by the pastor to a private tour of the church and its small museum. This was one of the few trips when speaking Hungarian was a real advantage.

Although the region was mostly Hungarian, there were some Romanian towns. It was a policy in the Ceausescu era to move ethnic Romanians into Hungarian villages to dilute the population. Some places have kept their Hungarian names, whilst others like Kolozsvár (Cluj) have Romanian names. Despite being nearly 100 years on from the Trianon Treaty, many Hungarians are still bitter about it. It's unlikely that anything is going to change though as the issue isn’t high on politician’s lists of things to fix.

It's not just the Transylanian issue that concerns people, as we discovered. We noticed “bassarabia e romania” (“Bessarabia is Romanian”) graffiti by the sides of the mountain roads to the Bucegi plateau. This is a historic region that was once part of Romania but now largely part of modern-day Moldova. The more that I read about the region, the more I discovered other territories like Transnistria and Dobruja with complicated histories and territorial claims.

Dracula

The Dracula myth is loosely based on the real Vlad Tepes, Prince of Wallachia in the 1400s. One theory we heard was that Bram Stoker had a relationship with a Hungarian professor from the University of Budapest and had heard stories of Vlad’s brutality. Vlad was famous for impaling the heads of his victims and displaying them along the routes that his enemies would travel along. This was intended to create fear and a sense of Vlad’s army being larger and more brutal than it was. As one historian told us, Vlad was probably no worse than many rulers at the time, it's just that he’s become famous for it, earning the name Vlad The Impaler.

The Dracula myth is actually a combination of influences from Vlad the Impaler, a European legend about a blood-sucking  South American and Transylvania’s reputation as a wild and mysterious place. The name Dracula actually comes from Vlad Tepes’ father, Vlad Dracul, who got his name after becoming a member of the Order Of The Dragon ... Dracul meaning Dragon.

Thankfully Romania hasn’t gone overboard on exploiting the Dracula connection. In Sighisoara (Segesvar in Hungarian) we had dinner in a slightly tacky restaurant in the building Vlad was (supposedly) born in. In 2002 plans to build a Dracula theme park just outside the town were abandoned following criticism from UNESCO, Greenpeace and the Prince of Wales, amongst others. Instead, Bran Castle near Brasov is the centre of Dracula tourism. The castle’s connection to Vlad is highly tenuous as he may have stayed there for a few nights. The most interesting Vlad The Impaler fact for us was that he was imprisoned in by King Matthias at Visegrad Castle, right next to where we got married.  

The Trip

Clock Tower, Sighisoara

Clock Tower, Sighisoara

 Our 8-day trip started in Cluj-Napoca, ending in Sibiu via Sighisoara and Brasov. Driving in Transylvania there can be an adventure in itself. Roads are badly maintained and mostly single carriageway. Lorries share the road with horse &carts and often overtake without warning. This means that driving times between towns are longer than similar distances in other countries.

Highlights were:

  • Sighisoara, a UNESCO World Heritage town. We took a fascinating guided walking tour with Peter from the Cultural Heritage InfoPoint near the Clock Tower.

  • Viscri Fortified Saxon Church, also a UNESCO site. It’s 10km along a very bumpy dirt track. Well worth the effort though for a few hours of peace in a beautiful old village.

  • Cycling from Sibiu to the ASTRA open-air museum at Dunbrava National Park.

Things we wish we had known:

  • Don’t go to Turda Salt Mine on a national / bank holiday. It was rammed in there.

  • Heroes Cross and the Transfaragasan Road are only doable in the summer. We tried to get to Heroes Cross but only made it as far as the cable car station.

  • Sinca Veche is really weird. We’d heard reviews of people who had experienced strong energies there. We just didn’t get it.

Viscri Fortified Saxon Church

Viscri Fortified Saxon Church

Day by Day

Blue = Day 3, Cluj-Turda-Sighisoara; Green = Day 5, Sighisoara-Viscri-Brasov; Red = Day 7, Brasov-Bran-Sinca-Sibiu

Richard gowerRoadtrip, MountainComment
Walking In Madeira
Pico Ruivo Trail

Pico Ruivo Trail

Madeira had always been a place that we thought we would go to one day, but it was never high up on our travel list. Maybe its reputation as a retirement holiday destination had put us off. It turned out that it’s an ideal winter break location for us: warm in the winter and loads of great walking trails. We could have easily spent a month there discovering all the Levada routes. For now, we made a start on three day trip walks.

Trip1: Levada Dos Tornos

Start: Botanical Garden Cable Car, Caminho das Voltas, 15 Ilha da Madeira, 9060-329 Funchal
Finish: Casa Velha Do Palheiro, R. da Estalagem, 23 - São Gonçalo, 9060-415 Funchal
Distance: 9.5 km (5.9 miles)
Elevation change: +272m / -307m. Net -35m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Levada de Bom Sucesso, Caminho Rev. Padre Eugénio Borgonovo, Levada dos Tornos,
Other routes touched (cycle): None

Like Tenerife, where I spent many childhood family holidays, Madeira has a north-south climate divide. The north and mountains get a lot of rain whilst the south is dry. Madeira solved this by laying over 2000 km of miles of drainage canals. These take the water down to the south where it's used both for irrigation and drinking water. Funchal, the capital, is positioned at the confluence of a few of the larger Levadas as they reach the sea.

As a warm up for longer more adventurous hikes later in the week, we set off to do the Levada dos Tornos. This one is very easily accessible from Funchal. The start is about 10 minutes walk from the top of the cable car station that connects the Old Town to Monte and its Botanical Garden.

The thing we'd wish we had known about was that the start of the Levada walk was closed due to a huge forest fire in the summer of 2016. Signs at the bottom of the cable car would have been helpful. Obviously, no one had thought to warn people before spending 10 euro each to get to the top. We considered bypassing the barrier and giving it a go, but the locals at the cafe near the top were adamant that it would be a bad idea. Apparently someone had died attempting and several others had to be rescued. An enterprising taxi driver came to the rescue by offering us a ride to the other side if the valley for "only" 20 euro. As a ride back on the cable car would have cost the same, it seemed like a good option.

We started the walk at Choupana where the road crosses the Levada. This was the site of the Choupana Hills Resort, once a 5 star spa hotel which was completely destroyed in the fire. The diversion cut off the dangerous part, shortening the walk by an hour.

Immediately leaving the road you see the effects of the fire with trees barely clinging to life and others reduced to charred stumps. Villas and hotels that backed onto the Levada are now burnt out ruins. Look up and you can see the giant football stadium perched high up on the hill. It's one of the weirdest locations for a stadium, accessible only by steep, winding local roads.

One mile in and we reached the Hortensia Tea House. It's well situated for the full hike from Monte but felt a bit early for the reduced trip. We stopped anyway: we were on holiday so we didn't need much excuse for a cake, a beer and a nice view down to the coast.

The rest of the walk is a further 40 minutes down to Palheiro Gardens. This is part of a large privately owned estate which also has a golf course and 5 star hotel. It's a pleasant, quieter alternative to the bustling Botanical Gardens back at the cable car station.

We ended the trip at the hotel at the lower end of the gardens, taking a taxi back to the city. It would have been another hour to walk to the centre, but we opted for a nap and an early dinner instead.

Trip 2: Pico Ruivo

Start: Parque de Estacionamento Pico do Areeiro
Finish: Rua Dr. João Abel de Freitas, Médico 6, Santana
Distance: 8.6 km (5.3 miles)
Elevation change: +493m / -708m. Net -215m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): PR1 Vereda do Areeiro, PR1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo, Vereda da Ilha, Vereda da Faja da Nogueira,
Other routes touched (cycle): PR03a, PR17

This was the highlight of our winter break in Madeira. Billed as the Madeira Three Peaks, it actually reaches the summits of the 1st and 3rd highest points on the island. The 2nd highest point was previously accessible but a land slip in 2016 has closed the path so the route now follows tunnels through Pico das Torres.

We chose to do the trek as a guided walk with Madeira Explorers. For the 2 of us it was only 20 euro more than hiring a car for the day and it solved the logistical issue of a point to point walk.

The route starts at Pico do Areeiro, the 3rd highest peak. You can drive all the way to the top where the summit is marked by a stone pillar behind the military "golf ball" radar station. From here the route descends gradually to a lookout point.

The stone path is well made and maintained. It's also exceptionally clean for a route that gets so many visitors. Much of the path also has strong cable handrails on the steep or exposed sections. Be careful though as some are loose or broken. Even without them it's not an especially dangerous walk.

Around an hour in, you pass the junction to the closed path leading up to the top of Pico Torres. Avoiding this, the routes continues and enters Pico de Gato Tunnel, the first of three on the trip. This is the longest one at about 100m.

As the route ascends towards Pico Ruivo you see more greenery. This is part of the Laurisilva, a UNESCO designated heather forest covering much of the north of the island. At around 8k the path reaches a hut which is a good place for a rest before the final push to the summit.

The final climb is only 10 minutes from the hut along a steeper section of the stone path. Although cloudy on our trip we could still see Achada do Teixeira, the neighbouring peak to the west. The summit is marked by 2 stone columns.

The trip concluded with a 2km gentler walk down to the car park on the east side of Achada do Teixeira.

Trip 3: Ribeiro Frio

Start & Finish: Ribeiro Frio Restaurant, ER103, Funchal
Distance: 6.9 km (4.3 miles)
Elevation change: + / - 395m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Levada do Furado, Levada do Poco do Bezerra, Caminho Real 24
Other routes touched (cycle): None

We did the Ribeiro Frio walk as a part of a 1 day east Madeira road trip. The 3 hour circular walk starts and ends at the Ribeiro Frio ("Cold River") restaurant. It's a 40 minute drive north of Funchal on some steep, and sometimes scary mountain roads. Once there, the walk is an oasis of calm and greenery.

The first hour of the walk follows the Levada do Furado. An alternative walk takes this all the way to Portala in the east, but our route branched off following the Levada do Bezerro. Whilst the first part was pretty busy, we had the route to ourselves apart from an American family that we occasionally met.

The Levada do Bezerro is a pretty steep climb. For the first 20 minutes were weren't convinced we were following the right path. The guide book said that there would be fast flowing water in the Levada but this was dry. The reason was clear about half way in, a landslide had damaged the conduit sending the water over the cliff to the river below. Further damage beyond this gave us some tricky places to clamber over.

The source of the Levada is a small series of pools on a cascade. The water here feeds the river below and some is siphoned off into the Levada. It's a nice, quiet place for a rest before the final 20-minute climb.

After the pools the path cuts up through the trees, reaching the Chao das Feiteiras plateau. Further on, at the highest point on the trip, is a small hill with some amazing views of the central mountain range. From here we could see the route of Wednesday's walk, from the radar station at Pico do Areeiro, through Pico das Torres, the summit of Pico Ruivo and Achada do Teixeira.

From here the path crosses some farm buildings and down a steep stone track meeting the Trout Farm. We'd timed it right as the restaurant at the bottom was quiet, with most of the tourist busses already having passed through earlier in the day. Grilled Trout with herbs and garlic bread were a great reward for one of the best short hikes I can remember.

route-33862828-map-full.png
Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Madeira, Portugal, Island High Points Comment
North Wales County Tops

Snowdon

Now that I've done most of the Southern County Tops, the rest are getting higher and further away from home. Expeditions have changed from day-trips to a few days away, bagging multiple tops in one region. The plan for this trip was North West Wales, bagging Snowdon, Holyhead Mountain, Moel Famau and Cadair Berwyn. Ideally we would have also squeezed in Aran Fawddwy but we only had 3 days off work and we wanted to get in some zip-lining action too.

Snowdon

Also known as: Yr Wyddfa
Significance: Highest peak in Caernarfonshire (Historic County Top), Gwynedd (Preserved County and Principal Area), Snowdonia National Park High Point, Wales Country Top
Member of: Marilyn, Furth, Hewitt, Nuttall, Welsh 3000s
Parent Peak: Ben Nevis.
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Stob Binnein
Elevation: 1,085m
Date climbed: 25th July 2016 (and several times before) 
Coordinates: 53°4′6.59″N 4°4′34.43″W


Route Start / End: Pen Y Pass car park
Route Distance: 12.4 km (7.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 874m
Subsidiary tops on route: Y Lliwedd
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Pyg Track, Llanberis Path, Snowdon Ranger Path, Watkin Path, Miners Track
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP6043 - Snowdon Summit
Map: OS Explorer OL17 Snowdon & Conwy Valley
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Caernarfonshire), Wikipedia (Snowdon), Peakbagger, Hillbagging
 

Before the trip I wasn't hugely excited about doing Snowdon again. I'd been up there at least 4 times before and would have rather spent the time on a new peak. Mark, my fellow County Topper, hadn't done it before so we needed to include it. Chris, the third of our group had literally no idea where he was so had no opinion on the matter.

Our plan was to do the Snowdon Horseshoe including the knife-edge Crib Goch. This excited me as I hadn't done any of that route before, normally sticking to the Watkin or Llanberis paths. I was a bit nervous about Crib Goch so I did a bit of Internet research on it the night before. I'm fine with heights but get nervous of slipping so I wanted to find out more about it. It turned out that this kind of research is much the same as looking up the cause of an itchy rash in the Web (You are definitely going to die). Our breakfast time meeting about the route was a good decider to not do it. We were discussing kit and Chris was talking about how proud he was of his new £9.99 waterproofs. He was also not sure about whether he would need to take a backpack or any water. That was it ... Pyg Track to the summit, no Crib Goch.

Despite leaving the B&B early, we soon became an hour and a half behind schedule. The Pen Y Pass Car park gets full really early so we had to go to the next lay-by a couple of miles along the road to Llanberis. The good news was that there’s a regular bus service connecting the stops on the road. The bad news is that non-one, including us, could work out what the bus timetable was telling us. Convinced that the bus would be imminent, we waited an hour before getting into a taxi exactly 30 seconds before the bus came round the corner.

Heading away from Pen Y Pass on the Pyg Track, the sky was overcast and the rain came within 10 minutes. This was further confirmation that our plan to avoid Crib Goch was the best idea ever. I also got the opportunity to stoke my amusement of people on mountains who are unprepared for the the conditions. £9.99 waterproofs were the height of preparedness compared the the walkers in jeans and t shirts and some carrying babies up the highest mountain in Wales.

Just beyond the cloud line we joined the familiar Llanberis Path and reached the summit. Apparently the view is amazing, but in the 5 times I've been there, it's only been dirty fog. After a quick stop at the summit cafe we started the descent along the Watkin Path. I done the Watkin a couple of times in reverse and remember the steep part near the top to be a bit of a wobbly scramble. We must have gone off track on those previous attempts as the path down was significantly more straightforward than I remembered.

At Bwlch Ciliau we left the Watkin and ascended again to Y Lliwedd. This was a new summit for me and, at 898m, it was taller than the majority of County Tops. With some amazing views, my previous disinterest in climbing Snowdon again was long gone.

At the bottom of Lliwedd Bach, the final peak of the Horseshoe,  we joined the Miners Track on relatively flat ground. Mark, who was just ahead of Chris and I, had got talking to a lone walker by the reservoir. The guy had done Crib Goch that morning and still looked petrified by the experience. He'd got to the knife edge relatively easily only to have got caught in a strong downpour right at the top. After our breakfast decision Mark and I were worried about whether missing it would take some of the enjoyment out of the day. As it happened, the day was awesome and the had the added bonus of not shitting ourselves and/or falling off.

Snowdon done ... Next stop: Holyhead Mountain.

Holyhead Mountain

Significance: Highest peak in Anglesey / Isle of Anglesey (Historic County Top, Preserved County, Principal Area and National Landscape)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: N/A.
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Moel Tryfan
Elevation: 220m
Date climbed: 25th July 2016
Coordinates: 53°18′47″N 4°40′35″W


Route Start / End: Car park opposite Ty Mawr Hut Circles on South Stack Road
Route Distance: 4 km (2.5 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 141m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP3989 - Holyhead
Map: OS Explorer 262 Anglesey West
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Anglesey), Wikipedia (Holyhead Mountain), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

The problem with Holyhead Mountain in that it's a massive pain in the arse to get to. Holyhead an island off an island in the far North West corner of Wales and takes a long time to get there from anywhere other than Snowdonia. At only 220m high and an hour and a half up and down, it not worth the trip unless you’re in the area anyway. Having just completed Snowdon and with several hours of daylight left, we decided to squeeze in Holyhead Mountain before evening beers.

The last time I’d been to Holyhead was in 2010 for the start of the 4-day NCN Route 8 Wales End-To-End cycle trip. Holyhead was once a thriving town supporting the ferry to Dublin, but had long since fallen on hard times. With a fast road and rail connection straight through to the port, there’s now no need to stop in the town. We were staying there overnight before setting off on the ride and really struggled to find anywhere to eat. Only 1 out of 3 shops in the high street were open with the rest either shut or housing a weird local charity. The Anglesey Feral Cat Action Trust was my favourite. If only I’d got the County Top obsession back then I could have bagged Holyhead Mountain then and avoided a return trip.

The walk, like so many of those I’m not expecting much from, turned out to be surprisingly pleasant. From the RSPB car park, its a gentle incline for about 20 minutes towards the big chalky cliff. A relatively straightforward and well sign-posted path leads through beautifully coloured heather to the trig point at the top. We had a warm but cloudy day so couldn’t see all the way to Dublin, just bits of Holyhead harbour and the ferries coming in and out.

elevation_profile - Holyhead Mountain.jpg

Moel Famau

Significance: Highest peak in Flintshire (Historic County Top and Principal Area), High Point of Preserved County of Clwyd, Clwydian Range and Dee Valley National Landscape High Point
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Moel y Gamelin.
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Cyrn-y-Brain
Elevation: 555m
Date climbed: 26th July 2016
Coordinates: 53°09′16″N 3°15′21″W


Route Start / End: Car park opposite Pen Barras Lodge on Bwlch Pen Barras Road
Route Distance: 4.4 km (2.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 271m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Offa’s Dyke Path
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0005 - Moel Fammau
Map: OS Explorer 265 Clwydian Range, Prestatyn, Mold & Ruthin
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Flintshire), Wikipedia (Moel Famau), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

 Just like Holyhead Mountain, Moel Famau isn’t a County Top that you’d make a big effort to get to just for itself. The summit itself is surrounded by a Country Park with various routes to the top and nice views. We picked the main route from the car-park at the bottom making the round trip in an hour and a half.

The main highlight of Moel Famau is the ruins of the Jubilee Tower, an Egyptian-style monument built in 1810 to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of George III. It was never completed and the actual tower was destroyed in a storm 1862 leaving the base that you can see today.

Moel Sych

Significance: Highest peak in Montgomeryshire (Historic County Top)
Member of: Marilyn, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Cadair Berwyn
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Cadair Berwyn
Elevation: 827m
Coordinates: 52°52′34″N 3°23′19″W
Links: Wikipedia (Montgomeryshire), Wikipedia (Moel Sych), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Cadair Berwyn

Significance: Highest peak in Denbighshire (Historic County Top), Wrexham (Council Top)
Member of: Marilyn, Hewitt, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Aran Benllyn
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Aran Benllyn
Elevation: 832m
Coordinates: 52°53′02″N 3°22′49″W
OS Trig Pillar: TP1837 - Cader Berwyn
Links: Wikipedia (Denbighshire), Wikipedia (Cadair Berwyn), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:
Date climbed: 27th July 2016
Route Start / End: Car park at Pistyll Rhaeadr Waterfall
Route Distance: 10.5 km (6.5 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 597m
Subsidiary tops on route: Cadair Berwyn North Top
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: OS Explorer 255 Llangollen & Berwyn
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)

Two tops in one trip: this was the highlight of the 5-County Top adventure as it was one that I’d not done before and a long, interesting trek. We’d saved this one for last as it was on our way back down South from our base on Betws-y-Coed.

The obvious starting point is a car park at the base of Tan-y-Pistyll Falls, the longest single-drop waterfall in the UK. Jonny Muir’s book recommends a there-and-back route to Cadiar Berwyn via Moel Sych. We followed this route up, but descended via a parallel path on the East side of the valley, ending up a mile further South from the car park. I definitely recommend this as is a far more interesting walk.

Navigation is easy for most of the route except, we found, for a small section near the top of the waterfall leading up to Moel Sych. It took a couple of attempts to find the small path however once on it, its an obvious route to the summit.

We read that Moel Sych was once considered the County Top of both Montgomeryshire and Denbighshire until someone noticed that Cadair Berwyn was higher and both counties got their own summit. When you’re at the top its obvious which one is the higher and hard to imagine how it too so long to discover it.

The route down follows a path curving down the side of a steep drop. Safe enough on a clear day like we had, however I’d seriously consider returning via the Moel Sych route on a low-visibility winter’s day.  

route-28201389-map-full Moel Sych & Cadair Berwyn.png

For Merionethshire (Aran Fawddwy), see the Western Wales post, linked below

OTHER HIGH POINTS IN North Wales

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Snowdonia, National Park, Caernarvonshire, Anglesey, Flintshire, Montgomeryshire, Denbighshire, Wales, Island High PointsComment
Northern Ireland County Tops

The Historic County Tops of Northern Ireland

Northern Ireland Historic County Top Road Trip

The idea for our Grand Tour of Northern Ireland came from how to solve the challenge of doing all 6 N.I. County Tops whilst making the trip "wife-friendly". Timi (the wife) loves travel as much as I do, enjoys trekking (to a point) but is not fond of mud and cold. We've learnt that the best combination is to do the adventure thing in the day but stay at nice places at night. A much as I could sleep in a tree, that's never a good option for Timi.

The plan was to start in Belfast, do some sight-seeing then take an anti-clockwise tour of the six counties, ticking off the County Tops. The anti-clockwise option works well as Trostan is a relatively straightforward warm-up and the others build up to the highest peak, Slieve Donard, at the end. In order to get the right balance of adventure and rest, we did no more than 1 walk per day and built in a day off between Trostan and Sawel Mountain to see the Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-rede.

Driving Distances:

  • Belfast to Trostan: 46 miles

  • Trostan to Sawel Mountain: 50 miles

  • Sawel Mountain to Cuilcagh: 70 miles

  • Cuilcagh to Slieve Gullion: 80 miles

  • Slieve Gullion to Slieve Donard: 36 miles

  • Slieve Donard to Belfast: 40 miles

  • Total Trip: 322 miles

Driving distances above show direct routes between main stops. The map below shows a longer road-trip including a visit to Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-rede and an overnight stay in Donegal between Cuilcagh and Slieve Gullion.

Present-Day Northern Ireland Super-Councils High Points

In 2015, Northern Ireland underwent a significant restructuring of its local government system, reducing the number of councils from 26 to 11. These newly formed larger councils, often dubbed "super councils," were established with the aim of enhancing efficiency, innovation, and cost-effectiveness in local governance. The reform also transferred additional responsibilities to the councils, including planning, local economic development, off-street car parking, and community investment, which were previously handled by the central government. This decentralization of power was intended to empower local councils to play a more prominent role in shaping their communities and responding to local needs.

Here are the highest points of the Northern Ireland Super Councils. The source of this list is Peakbagger.com. Note that other sources, including Wikipedia, show different high points. Please contact me if you have any information relavant to updating this list and I will donate £1 per correction to one of my Causes.

  • Slieve Donard. Newry City, Mourne and Down District. 850 metres.

  • Sawel Mountain. Derry City and Strabane District. 678 metres.

  • Cuilcagh. Fermanagh and Omagh District. 666 metres.

  • Mullaghaneany. Causeway Coast and Glens District. 627 metres.

  • Oughtmore. Mid-Ulster District. 569 metres.

  • Slievenanee. Mid and East Antrim District. 543 metres.

  • Divis. Belfast City. 478 metres.

  • Divis - West Slope. Antrim and Newtownabbey District. 455 metres.

  • Carrigatuke. Armagh City, Banbridge and Craigavon District. 365 metres.

  • Collin. Lisburn City and Castlereagh District. 328 metres.

  • Cairngaver. North Down and Ards District. 214 metres.

The highest 3 mountains in the super-council list (Slieve Donard, Sawel Mountain and Cuilcagh) are also Historic County Tops. Trostan is the Historic County Top of County Antrim but is now in the Causeway Coast and Glens District of which Mullaghaneany is the highest point. Slieve Gullion is the Historic County Top of County Armagh but is now in the Newry City, Mourne and Down District of which Slieve Donard is the highest point.

More High Points

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Northern Ireland, Ireland, Co Armagh, Co Fermanagh, Co Down, Co Antrim, Co Londonderry, Co Tyrone, Irish County TopsComment
Slieve Donard: Down County Top

Slieve Donnard summit

Also known as: Sliabh Donairt
Significance: Highest peak in County Down (Historic County Top), Highest Peak in Northern Ireland, Mourne Mountains National Landscape High Point
Member of: Marilyn, Hewitt
Parent Peak: Wicklow Mountains National Park High Point
Elevation: 853m
Date climbed: May 6th 2016
Coordinates: 54.1804° N, 5.9223° W

 

Route Start / End: Donard Park car park, Newcastle
Route Distance: 9.8 km (6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 908m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Mourne Wall Challenge
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP7678 - Slieve Donard (New)
Map: OS Northern Ireland Activity Maps: The Mournes (for Slieve Donard)
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (County Down), Wikipedia (Slieve Donard), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

 

This trek was part of a tour of the Historic County Tops of Northern Ireland that Timea and I did in May 2016.

Our final day was the tallest mountain and the most enjoyable trek: Slieve Donard. The week up until this was had changeable weather with every season in every day. This day we were in luck as it was warm with great visibility. On a really clear day you can see England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland from the summit. We couldn't see that far, but we were pretty sure that we could see the Isle Of Man in the distance.

From the Donard Park car park in the centre of coastal Newcastle, the trail follows a stream up through a forest. The tree line ends about an hour in and passes the Annesley Ice House. From here the path continues to follow the stream until a bridge which marks the start of a steep climb up to the Saddle. This is the point where the Glen River Walk meets the Mourne Wall, a 35 km granite wall built in the early 1900s to mark the catchment area of the Silent Valley Reservoir which provides water for most of Belfast and County Down. From here, the summit is another steep climb, following the wall to the South-West.

The summit of Donard is a large pile of stones next to a trig point on a stone tower. This is one of three similar towers originally built to provide shelter for the workers that built the wall. From the summit we could see one of the other towers on the way up to the neighboring Slieve Commedagh, the second highest of the Mourne Mountains at 767m

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Northern Ireland, Co DownComment