Posts tagged Mountain
Walking to the Tajogiante Crater, La Palma

Tajogiante Crater

Tajogiante

Also known as: Jedey or Cabeza de Vaca
Significance: New crater formed by the 2021 La Palma eruption.
Elevation: 1,120m. At the time it was not possible to access the highest point.
Date “climbed”: February 25th 2025
Coordinates: 28°36′46″N 17°51′58″W

Start / Finish: Parking spot on the LP-301
Distance: 7.5 km (4.7 miles)
Elevation Change: +/- 305m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): Camino Cabeza de Voca, PR LP 14 El Paso - Refugio del Pilar. SL LP Coladas de San Juan - Llano de Jable
Cafe / pub on route: None
Links: Wikipedia (La Palma, Tajogiante), Centro de interpretación Caños de Fuego

 

A highlight of our 2025 winter-sun trip to La Palma was learning about Tajogiante, the new volcano created after the island’s 2021 eruption. We had booked our hotel in Puerto Naos in the south-west the island not knowing how impacted the town was by the eruption. We soon found out on our drive from the airport along a newly built highway across the lava fields.

The best place to learn about the eruption and its after-effects is the Visitors’ Centre (Centro de interpretación Caños de Fuego) near Las Manchas. The knowledgeable staff, videos and displays describe the events of both the 2021 and 1971 eruptions. You can also visit one of the lava tubes with a guide and walk along the raised platform over the lava fields. You can visit the larger lava tube (Cueva de Las Palomas) but you’ll need to use a separate tour company. You can find details of these companies at the Visitor Centre reception. Several of them also do the guided tours to the Tajogiante Crater.

We chose La Palma Natural for our 3-hour guided walk to the crater. Note that you can’t do the walk without an authorised guide and you’ll be stopped by a ranger at the hut near the start of the walk. We met our guide plus the 4 other guest at the Tourist Office in El Paso and were driven to trail-head on the LP-301 road. From there it’s a beautiful 4 km walk descending down to the nearest point you can get to the crater. As with the Roque de los Muchachos trip earlier in the week, we were blessed with warm, dry weather and a clear sky so the views were amazing. The return to the start followed a different route, gradually ascending to the road.

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Canary Islands, SpainComment
Roque de los Muchachos, La Palma High Point

View to Tenerife from Roque de Los Muchachos

Roque de los Muchachos

English Translation: “Rock of the Boys”
Significance: Highest point on the Island of La Palma, Canaries, Spain
Elevation: 2,428m
Date “climbed”: February 23rd 2025
Coordinates: 28° 45' 15'' N, 17° 53' 5'' W

Start / Finish: Small parking area at Mirador de Roque de los Muchachos, Ctra. al Roque de los Muchachos, 38788, Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Distance: 1.3 km (0.8 miles)
Elevation Change: +/- 84m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): GR 131 El Baston
Cafe / pub on route: None, nearest refreshments are vending machines at the Observatory Visitors Centre
Map: La Palma Tour & Trail Super-Durable Map (David Brown)
Guidebook: La Palma and El Hierro Walking Guide (Sunflower Guides)
Links: Wikipedia (La Palma, Roque de los Muchachos), Peakbagger,

 

At the end of February we always escape the UK winter to go somewhere warm for Timea’s birthday. The Canary Islands have been a good choice for us for winter sun and we’ve been working our way through them one per year. As well as a bit of relaxation we always attempt to tick off each island’s highest point. Unfortunately, often due to weather, we’ve missed out on a few of the summits. That’s why I was excited to see that you can drive to La Palma’s highest point. I wasn’t completely sure that we would reach it though. My friend Joel had visited the island 6 weeks before and the the access road was closed. The weather was on our side with no issues getting to the top.

While you’re there, it’s well worth visiting the space observatories located near the high point. We booked a 90 minute tour with Ad Astra which included a tour of the Gran Telescopio Canarias, the largest optical-infrared telescope in the world. The high point is a 10 minute drive from the Observatory visitor centre.

The main thing to know about the car at the high point is that it’s very small and gets very busy, especially right after the Observatory tours. We made a point of leaving the Observatory Visitor Centre straight after the tour had finished to get ahead of everyone else. The car park was full when we got there but we only had to wait a few minutes to get a space. Those that came after us had to wait on the tricky hair-pin bends for spaces to become available. We found the guy at the top in the hut to be especially unhelpful at managing the traffic so Timea had to get out to be an unofficial car park supervisor. Without that nobody would have got in or out for ages.

Once parked you’ll find the Trig Pillar at the northern edge of the lot with great views across to the observatories. From here you can take a 1.3 km out-and-back walk down to the Mirador del Espigón del Roque. We were especially lucky as it was a clear day and we had views across to Tenerife, La Gomera and El Hierro.

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Canary Islands, Spain, Island High Points, Trig PillarComment
Fansipan: Vietnam High Point

Also known as: Phan Xi Păng (Vietnamese), Fan Si Pan
Significance: Highest Point in Vietnam, Lào Cai province and the Indochina peninsula
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Maotou Shan, China
Elevation: 3,147m
Date “climbed”: November 1st 2024
Coordinates: 24° 29' 6'' N, 100° 40' 17'' E
Links: Wikipedia (Vietnam, Lào Cai province, Fansipan), Peakbagger

Our trip to Fansipan was a part of a 2-week escorted tour of Vietnam. We had a very long list of things that we wanted to see in the country but only 2 weeks to do it in. Fortunately we have an ex-colleague who is also a travel organiser so asked him to plan the ultimate Grand Tour of Vietnam. The first version of the itinerary had a few days of rest in Phú Quốc island but missed out the country high point. As my main travel principle is that you can rest when you’re dead, we swapped out the island for the high point. I’m so happy that we made the swap as our 2 days around Fansipan were a highlight of the whole Vietnam trip. We had a guide and a driver so all of the arrangements were taken care of. If you’re travelling solo, check out other blogs for better info on how to get to Fansipan from Hanoi.

The main way to access Fansipan is from the centre of Sapa. This is a large town in the far north of the country, approximately 6 hours drive from Hanoi. From the town centre you can take a funicular railway, then a cable car from Hoang Lien Station. The station was opened in 2018, built in French-colonial style, and is an impressive building in its own right. When you enter the station you leave the noisy, busy streets and enter into a clean, modern Disney-style complex to start the ascent.

The first part is a 6 minute funicular railway ride to Muong Hoa Station where you change to the cable car. It’s a big complex with some gardens but we arrived mid-afternoon and didn’t have a lot of time to look around so we continued straight onto the cable car.

The Sapa Cable Car isn't just a scenic ride; it's a record-breaker! It holds two Guinness World Records:

  • Longest Non-Stop Three-Rope Cable Car: Stretching an impressive 6,292 meters (nearly 4 miles), it's the longest continuous three-rope cable car system in the world.  

  • Highest Elevation Difference: With a staggering 1,410-metre (4,626 feet) vertical ascent, it has the greatest elevation difference for any non-stop three-rope cable car worldwide

The summit complex is impressively huge and well organised for something built on top of a mountain at 3000m. From the cable-car top station at you have the choice of taking another funicular or 600 steps to the high point. Wanting to do both options we took the funicular up and the steps down.

The summit is very well organised with several “false summits” with triangular makers for photo opportunities. This removes the normal queues of people waiting to have their photos taken at the same spot. We were there late in the afternoon on a weekday and it was quieter than normal.

On the way back down to the cable car station the 600 steps take you past gardens and pagodas and the largest Buddha statue in the country. It’s a better option to take the funicular up and the steps down as you get great views as you descend. Our only wish is that we had started the trip earlier so that we were not so rushed on the way down.

The Funicular and Cable Car

The Summit

Richard gowerTrek, Country High Points, Mountain, Railway, VietnamComment
Mount Battock: Kincardineshire County Top

Path split on the circular route. Mount Battock in the distance

Significance: Historic County Top for Kincardineshire
Member of: UK County Tops, Scotland County/Unitary Authority High Points, Marilyns
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Mount Keen 
Elevation: 778m
Date climbed: September 29th 2024
Coordinates: 56° 56' 57'' N, 2° 44' 31'' W

Route Start & Finish: Small parking space near Millden Lodge, Glen Esk
Route Distance: 15 km (9.3 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 637m
Subsidiary tops on route: Wester Cairn
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0677 - Mount Battock
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
Map: Glen Esk and Glen Tanar (OS Explorer Map Series): No. 395
Links: Wikipedia: (Kincardineshire / Mount Battock), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Mount Battock is the Historic County Top for Kincardineshire and the 27th highest of all of the UK County Tops. We bagged it in 2024 on our annual County Top weekend trip, along with the Historic County Top of Angus and the Council Area High Points of Dundee and Aberdeen.

The start of the route is from a small parking area in Millden just off the minor road that tracks the northern edge of the River North Esk. From here take the lane that heads north from the parking spot, past the old water mill to a path junction at Muir Cottage. Take the right hand path to follow the track that follows the left-hand side of the Burn of Turrett. At the 2km mark you’ll reach another path junction which marks the start of the main circular section of this walk. Take the left hand path to the Trig Pillar and stone shelter at the summit of Mount Battock.

To descend cross over the fence to the south of the summit, using the ladder stile. There’s a path here in places but it’s often hard to track as it passes through very boggy ground. Just keep close to the fence on your left for around 800m until you reach a well-defined track. Follow the track in a south / south westerly direction until it meets the Burn of Turrett. Cross over the burn and you’ll reach the path junction where you previously took a left to start the circular section. From here take a left to retrace the first 2 km of the route back to the start.

Kincardine Kirkyard

One of the highlights of this year's County Top bagging trip was finding the remains of the lost County Town of Kincardine. This was originally a Scottish Burgh that developed around Kincardine Castle. By 1600, the burgh was in decline, and the county town moved to Stonehaven where it is now.

Our hunt for the lost town of Kincardine began on the way to Aberdeen after our Mount Battock walk. We stopped for a drink in Fettercairn and discovered a plaque in the main square detailing the town's history. The last sentence on the plaque reads: "All that remains of the old County Burgh today is the tiny Kirkyard of St Catherine's Chapel with a solitary tombstone dated 1786"

The site of Kincardine Castle is easy to find with a 5 minute drive to the east of Fettercairn along the B966. Take a left off the B966 to find Castleton Kincardine Farm (AB30 1EX). Turning left into the farm drive you can see the foundations of the old castle on your right. Slightly further down the farm track you'll see a clump of trees in the middle of a field. This is the remains of the old kirkyard.

We parked at the side of the lane and crossed the field to the kirkyard. In late September the field had been ploughed but be careful not to damage crops at other times of the year and, if possible, ask permission from the landowner. The tombstone and remains of the old wall are easy to find in the centre of the trees with not too much foliage to get through.

Links: Fettercairn, Kincardine

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, Kincardineshire, ScotlandComment
Glas Maol: Angus County Top

Walking from Glas Maol towards Creag Leacach

Significance: Historic County Top for Angus
Member of: UK County Tops, Scotland County/Unitary Authority High Points, Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Lochnagar
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Carn a' Coire Boidheach
Elevation: 1,068m
Date climbed: September 28th 2024
Coordinates: 56° 52' 23'' N, 3° 22' 6'' W

Route Start & Finish: Small parking area on A93 Old Military Road, ~3km north of Glenshee Ski Centre
Route Distance: 19.3 km (12 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 808m
Subsidiary tops on route: Carn an Tuirc, Cairn of Claise, Creag Leacach
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Monega Pass
OS Trig Pillar: TP3372 - Glas Maol
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at Glenshee Ski Centre
Map: Glen Shee & Braemar Map | The Cairnwell & Glas Maol | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL52
Links: Wikipedia: (Angus / Glas Maol), Peakbagger, Hillbagging, Glenshee Ski Centre

Glas Maol is the Historic County Top for Angus and the 7th highest of all of the UK County Tops. We bagged it in 2024 on our annual County Top weekend trip, along with the Historic County Top of Kincardineshire and the Council Area High Points of Dundee and Aberdeen.

The quickest way to conquer Glas Maol is an out-and-back from the large car park at Glenshee Ski Centre. I always prefer an interesting circular over an out-and-back so we opted for the 4-Munro circuit that I found on the Walk Highlands site. For this we started at a small parking spot around 3 km north of the Ski Centre. If that parking spot is full then park at the Ski Centre and walk to the northern parking at the start of the walk rather than at the end.

From the northern parking spot take the footpath that ascends to Carn an Tuirc in an east/north-easterly direction on the northern side of a small stream. After 1.2km you’ll cross over the stream, continuing to ascend. You’ll reach the summit of the first of the day’s Munros after 2.9km.

Continue along the path, now curving to the south-east, for another 2.6 km to reach the summit of Cairn of Claise. This is the second Munro of the day and, at 1.064m, just 4 metres lower than Glas Maol. Continue along the path, now heading south-west. The route descends slightly then ascends, crossing over the Monega Pass, to the summit of Glas Maol. The high point is marked by a Trig Pillar and a stone shelter large enough for 4 people.

After the Glas Maol summit, continue heading south-west, descending for 1km to the 10 km point in the walk. Here you’ll reach a path junction marked by a large cairn. This is a good point to make a decision to either take a short out-and-back to the 4th Munro, or return straight down to the road. We expected bad weather but, as it turned out, we had a bright, albeit cold, day with good visibility so we decided to bag the 4th Munro.

To reach Creag Leacach continue south for 1.5 km following the ridge line towards the steep ascent to the summit. The path gets very close to a steep drop on the left hand side just ahead of the climb so be extra careful in low visibility. After the summit, retrace your steps back to the large cairn, then continue descending in a north-westerly direction towards the ski-slopes. As you get closer to the slopes, continue along the path as it curves to the west and descend back to A93 Old Military Road at the large Glenshee Ski Centre car park. Take a right onto the road and follow the grass verge back to the starting point.

There’s a cafe at the Ski Centre that’s a great place to stop at the end to celebrate completing the route. Don’t rely on it if you’re out late in the day though. Our excitement to stop there quickly vanished when we arrived there 5 minutes after closing time.

While some of the County Top walks are starting to blur together in our memories, Glas Maol will likely be one that will stand out as a real classic route. The great visibility that we had that day certainly helped but the chance to bag 4 Munros in 1 walk was a big factor too.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, Angus, ScotlandComment
European High Points
 

While ticking off the UK County Tops I have also picked up a few European Country Tops along the way. I don’t think that I’ll bag them all unless I put a serious amount of more time into it. Some are a bit too technical or remote for my preference too. In the meantime, here’s the list of all European Country High Points, some alternatives and disputed ones and notable Island High points. Let me know in the comments if you spot any errors and I’ll donate £1 to one of my Causes for any correction made.

European Country High Points

*Notes

  • Gunnbjørn Fjeld, Greenland is the highest point in the Kingdom of Denmark. However, it is an autonomous territory on the North American continent and is not part of the European Union.

    • Slættaratindur, Faroe Islands is the highest point in the Kingdom of Denmark that is also on the European Continent.

    • Møllehøj is the highesh point on mainland Denmark. Yding Skovhøj is a close second highest with only 0.09m between them.

  • Mahya Dağı is the highest point in the European part of Turkey, while Mount Ararat (not shown above) is the highest point in all of Turkey and is in the Asian part.

    • Selvili Tepe is the highest point in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. The territory is only recognised by Turkey and is considered by all other states to be part of the Republic of Cyprus.

  • Mont Blanc straddles the border of both Italy and France and is the highest mountain of both countries as well as the highest point in the EU.

    • Monte Bianco di Courmayeur is a subsidiary peak to Mont Blanc and is marked as lying entirely within Italy on the Italian Istituto Geografico Militare while on the French Institut Géographique National (IGN) map the summit lies on the border between France and Italy (source).

    • Barre des Écrins is the highest mountain that is completely within France and was the French high point until the annexation of Savoy in 1860

    • Gran Paradiso is the highest mountain that is completely within Italy.

  • Mount Pico in the Azores is the highest point in the Portuguese Territory, while Serra da Estrela is the highest point on the Portuguese mainland

  • Mount Teide on Tenerife in the Canary Islands is the highest point in the Spanish Territory, while Mulhacén is the highest point on the Spanish mainland.

  • High Points of the British Crown Dependencies: Jersey, Guernsey and the Isle of Man are listed above separately from the UK. UK nations: England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland are not show. See the UK County Tops page for details.

European Island High Points

  • The highest mountain on an island of a European Territory is Mount Teide on the Spanish Canary Islands at 3,718m

  • The highest mountain on an island on the European Continent is Mount Etna on the Italian island of Sicily at 3,342m

  • The largest island in continental Europe is Great Britain which has Ben Nevis as its highest point at 1,345m

Other notable island high points are listed below, grouped by country. I’ve mainly included high points of >1,000m. However, I’ve also included other islands high points that I’ve been to or plan to visit.

France

Greece

Italy

Norway

Norway - Svalbard

  • Monacofjellet, 1,084 metres, Prins Karls Forland Island. (Wikipedia / Peakbagger)

  • Soltindan, 1,051 metres, Ringvassøy. (Wikipedia, Peakbagger)

  • Store Blåmann, 1,044 metres, Kvaløya Island. (Wikipedia / Peakbagger)

Portugal

Russia

Spain - Balearic Islands

Spain - Canary Islands

…the traditional seven:

…and the minor islands:

United Kingdom

  • See UK Islands High Points (coming soon)

More High Points

Richard gowerTrek, Country High Points, MountainComment
Ben Lomond: Stirlingshire County Top

View over Loch Lomond on the descent from Ben Lomond

Also known as: Beinn Laomainn (“beacon mountain")
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Stirlingshire, Loch Lomond NSA High Point
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Beinn Ime.
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Beinn Ime
Elevation: 974m
Date climbed: September 23rd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 11' 25'' N, 4° 37' 59'' W

Route Start & Finish: Ben Lomond (Rowardennan) Car Park, Stirling, G63 0AR
Route Distance: 12 km (7.5 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 913m
Subsidiary tops on route: Ptarmigan (778m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Ben Lomond Trail, Ptarmigan Ridge Path, West Highland Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1283 - Ben Lomond
Pubs / Cafes on route: None on route but the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel is near the car park
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Stirlingshire / Ben Lomond), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. We were on our 3rd day of the trip and had already ticked off Ben Lawers and Ben Vorlich. Now for Ben Lomond, not the highest of the trip, but definitely the most iconic. Ben Lomond is the most southerly Munro, sits on the edge of Loch Lomond and is very close to Glasgow. As such it’s very popular and it can be hard to find parking spots.

We read that in the summer the police close off the road to the main car-park. We were there in late September after the summer peak but we also had to get in a parkrun as it was a Saturday. By the time we arrived it was 11:00 and the main car-park was full so we parked in the overflow instead. This has its advantage though as it’s free and has a direct connection to the Ben Lomond Trail.

We opted for the clockwise circular route, initially following the West Highland Way from the overflow to the main car-park then picking up the Ptarmigan Ridge Path that ascends on the western side of the mountain closest to the Loch. The weather was a bit grey but we still had great views down to the Loch as we climbed.

The different map apps that we had in the group gave different positions for the summit of Ptarmigan so we visited both just to be sure. After Ptarmigan there’s a steep final ascent to the Ben Lomond summit and the Trig Pillar. The summit is flat and, when we were there, fairly crowded with walkers stopping for lunch. After a quick break we continued the circuit, descending down via the Ben Lomond Way.

Near the Loch there’s a path junction with one route to the main car-park and another to the overflow. We took the route to the main car-park to have a celebratory drink at the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, National Trails, National Park, National Trust, Stirlingshire, ScotlandComment
Ben Vorlich: Dunbartonshire County Top

View to the south-west on the descent of Ben Vorlich

Also Known as: Beinn Mhùrlaig
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Dunbartonshire
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: xx. NHN = Beinn Ime
Elevation: 943m
Date climbed: September 22nd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 16' 27'' N, 4° 45' 18'' W

Route Start & Finish: Inveruglas Visitor Centre, Inveruglas Farm, A82, Arrochar, G83 7DP
Route Distance: 13.3 km (8.3 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 904m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Loch Lomond and Cowal Way, Three Lochs Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1309 - Ben Vorlich
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at Inveruglas Visitor Centre at start/finish.
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Dunbartonshire / Ben Vorlich), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. After ticking off Ben Lawers we drove south to Balquhidder to stay at the Mhor 84 hotel ahead of tackling Ben Vorlich the next day.

It was during dinner at Mhor 84 that I realised that there was more than one Ben Vorlich and I had planned for the wrong one. Fortunately the correct one was only a 40 minute drive in the direction of our 3rd peak of the trip so we didn’t lose any time overall. Definitely a lesson learned for future trips as I soon found out that there’s also more than one Morven.

With a brand new route plan we arrived at the Inveruglas Visitor Centre for the start of the walk. We often follow Jonny Muir’s guide for the routes but this time decided to take a southern approach to Ben Vorlich instead of the northern route from Ardlui Station that he took.

From the Visitor Centre, head south along the Three Lochs Way following the A82. You’ll pass the Hydroelectric Power Station on your right. After ~900m leave the A82, still following the Three Loch Way along a track now heading west. This track runs parallel to the Inveruglas Water (stream), curving to the north to reach the dam at the southern edge of Loch Stoy.

At ~3km from leaving the A82 and 1 km before the dam you’ll meet a footpath heading steeply up to the right. This is a good place to take a break before the main ascent. Once on the path it’s a further 2.6 km climb to the cairn that marks the summit. You’ll pass the Ben Vorlich Trig Pillar shortly before the high point. For the descent retrace your steps back to the Visitor Centre. As with our Ben Lawers trip the day before, we had a lot of mist, drizzle and wind at the top but much better weather as we descended. Our slog to the top was rewarded by amazing views over both Loch Lomond and Loch Stoy.

Other High Points in the Historic County of Dunbartonshire

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, National Park, Dunbartonshire, ScotlandComment
Ben Lawers: Perthshire County Top

Descending Ben Lawyers towards Beinn Ghlas

Also known as: Beinn Labhair
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Perthshire, Council Top for Perth and Kinross, Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA High Point
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Ben Nevis
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Aonach Beag
Elevation: 1,124m
Date climbed: September 21st 2023
Coordinates: 56° 32' 42'' N, 4° 13' 15'' W

Route Start & Finish: National Trust of Scotland Ben Lawers Car Park, Killin, FK21 8TY
Route Distance: 11.4 km (7.1 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 838m
Subsidiary tops on route: Beinn Ghlas
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Ben Lawers Trail
OS Trig Pillar: TP1281 - Ben Lawers
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Ben Lawers & Glen Lyon Map | Loch Tay, Killin & Kenmore | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL48
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Perthshire / Ben Lawers), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. First up was Ben Lawers, the 3rd highest UK Historic County Top and the highest of this particular trip.

After a flight from London and a 2 hour drive from Glasgow we arrived at the National Trust car park at the start of the trail. The Ben Lawers Trail is well marked and maintained making navigation very easy. We also had good visibility on the day, although the summit was wet and very windy. The trek to the summit passes over Beinn Ghlas, a 1103 m Munro, followed by a small descent before a steep climb to the Ben Lawers Trig Pillar.

For the return to the car park you can either retrace your steps over Beinn Ghlas or take an alternative path to the west from the col between the two peaks. This alternative route rejoins the main Ben Lawers Trail by a fence at 2.2 km from the car park.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, National Trust, Perthshire, ScotlandComment
Walking Mount Etna

View to the South-East Crater from the Boca Nuova crater rim

Significance:  Highest Point on the Island of Sicily and Metropolitan City of Catania
Parent Peak: N/A. NHN = Marmolada, Italy
Elevation: 3,342m
Date climbed: August 28th 2023
Coordinates: 37° 45' 1'' N, 14° 59' 41'' E

Route Start: 37°45'49.7"N 14°59'43.4"E
Route Finish: 37°45'55.4"N 15°00'49.7"E
Route Distance: 6.4 km (4 miles)
Route Elevation change: +336m / -540m. Net -204m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Guidebook: Walking in Sicily (Cicerone Guides): 46 walking routes including Mt Etna and the Egadi and Aeolian islands
Links: Wikipedia: (Sicily, Catania, Mount Etna), Peakbagger

When we were talking about where to go for our summer holiday this year I wasn’t as keen as Timea was on Sicily. I always prefer to go somewhere new and we’d done Sicily. I got convinced about going when we researched about the Mount Etna and Stromboli trips. Our last trip had also been nearly 20 years ago and we’d only scratched the surface of exploring the island.

First up was the Mount Etna trip. Having come off a busy time at work, and wanting to minimise the planning, we went with a private tour organised by our hotel. Our guide Angelo and his daughter Fabiana picked us up at 07:30 from our hotel in Risposto and we headed towards the mountain.

We made a quick stop on the drive up to Cappalla Nel Maggio, an old church that had nearly been destroyed by a lava flow. A sign on the chapel tells the story (please excuse the translation): “During the eruption of November 1950 a lava flow, dividing into two arms, threatened simultaneously Milo and Fornazzo. In so much danger a solemn devout procession was promoted from the parish priest of Fornazzo Don Salvatore Fichera. It changed it, deviating to the left, it was channeled into the Cava Grande torrent, sparing the town. Then the commitment to build a chapel was born. In May 1971 another lava flow retraced the same route. The procession ended in a house owned by Mr. Sebastiano Cantarella. This house was overwhelmed by August 3, 1979. Of these there are currently some ruins still visible. The same flow of August 3, 1979 threatened to overwhelm this chapel but it stopped close to its walls penetrating inside the Chapel. The prodigious event is remembered every year on the first Sunday of August with a procession and the celebration of the Holy Mass”

The drive to the Visitor Centre at Piano Provenzana took just over an hour. Here we had a quick stop then transferred to a Unimog, a large off-road bus to take us further up. Piano Provenzana is also has a large car park and several tour agencies if you’re making your own way there. Our guide told us that there’s no limit on numbers of visitors to the mountain but you may be limited by the number of spaces on the Unimogs. An alternative is walking all the way up from Piano Provenzana but you’ve got to be a strong hiker, and prepared for the heat. Also, given the obvious dangers of climbing up an active volcano, I certainly wouldn’t go without an experienced guide.

The Unimog trip took about half an hour to cover 9.7 km and 1,183m of elevation to reach the start of the hiking section at 2,967m. There were a few other groups on the same bus and we let them go heading, preferring a more relaxing ascent. We slowly ascended in a southerly direction to reach the Boca Nuova Crater after 2.2 km.

We were there on a clear but windy day. Not too much wind to blow us off course but enough to blow clouds of sulphur into our faces. My regret here was no packing my Buff to cover my face with. Timea was better prepared as she brought hers so I had to settle with holding a tissue over my mouth and face. You definitely don’t want the sulphur inside you.

The sulphur was a small price to pay for the awesome view of the Boca Nuova Crater, still spewing clouds of steam and gas. Our route took us on a full anticlockwise circuit of the crater and close to the South-East Crater, the current high point of the mountain at 3,357m. We couldn’t get to the top of that one as it’s still dangerous but I was very happy getting to the most accessible high point of 3,317m.

After the Boca Nuova crater we skirted round the south-western edge of the North-East Crater. A circuit of this crater looked tempting but it was also too dangerous so we settled for peering over the top on the southern edge. from here we descended in a north-easterly direction towards the Observatory Etneo where we met the bus to take us back to the Visitor Centre. The fast ski-like descent down the ash fields to the bus was another highlight of the trip.

The adventure wasn’t over yet as there were 2 more interesting stops on the way back down to Riposto. First stop was an “island” of forest created when a lava flow cut off one of the main roads up to the mountain in 2002. A new road has been laid over the lava and you can take a small track down to see the remains of the old road.

Stop 2 was a small cave created by a lava flow. There’s steps at either end making it easy to walk through, although a helmet and torch is essential. The cave was once used as an ice house and is depicted in the painting “La Grotta a La Neige” by Jean-Pierre Houël. According to the information board, the painting is now displayed in The Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia.

We were back in our hotel in Rispoto by 16:30 totaling an 8 hour trip. If you’re up for a similar day trip I can highly recommend our guide Angelo at siciliaadventure.it

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Island High Points, Sicily, ItalyComment
Coety Mountain: Blaenau Gwent & Torfen High Points

Approach to Coety Mountain from Forge Side Road

Coety Mountain

Also known as: Coity Mountain / Mynydd Coety (Welsh)
Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Blaenau Gwent
Member of: Marilyns
Parent Peak: Pen y Fan. NHN = Sugar Loaf
Elevation: 578m
Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 45' 55'' N, 3° 6' 53'' W
Links: Wikipedia: Blaenau Gwent, Coety Mountain, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Coety Mountain East Slope

Significance:  Unitary Authority High Point for Torfaen
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Coety Mountain. NHN = Coety Mountain
Elevation: 574m
Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 45' 56'' N, 3° 6' 50'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Torfaen), Peakbagger, Hillbagging


For both peaks:

Route Start & Finish: Parking space before the cattle grid near Varteg Road Cemetery, Varteg Road, Pontypool, NP4, UK
Route Distance: 10.1 km (6.2 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 276m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): N/A
Other routes touched (cycle): N/A but NCN 492 passes very close to the start of the walk.
OS Trig Pillar: TP5042 - Mynydd Varteg Fawr
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Ordnance Survey OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern Area Map
Links: Blaenavon, Blaenavon World Heritage Site

Coety Mountain is the high point of the Welsh Principal Areas of Blaenau Gwent and Torfaen within the Historic County of Monmouthshire. The Blaenau Gwent / Torfaen border runs along the ridge of the mountain with the 2 high points very close together.

The quickest way to bag the high points is an out-and-back from the Whistle Inn Halt at the north-western end of Blaenavon. Instead I chose a longer circular route from the south-eastern end of town to include the Mynydd Farteg Fawr Trig Pillar. There’s a parking space for a couple of cars near the cattle grid by the cemetary on Varteg Road, or, if not available you can also park along Forge Side Road.

From Varteg Road follow Forge Side Road in a north-westerly direction until you reach a footpath on the left by an old access road to a mine. Follow the path to the left of the mine as it curves up the hill towards the south-east. At a path junction take the path that leads to the north-west and follow that for about 250m. There’s no direct path from here to access the top of the ridge so I found a safe spot and headed up through the bracken. When you reach the top of the ridge take a left to follow the path to the Trig Pillar.

After the Trig Pillar retrace your steps to where you reached the top and continue following the path for ~2.4 km to the top of Coety Mountain. Keep an eye on the GPS though as the path disappears before the summit. The top of Coety Mountain is obvious but you’ll need to follow the GPS to reach the East Slope which is the high point of Torfaen.

After the high points make your way down to a track that leads to an old mine. Around 100m to the north-west of the mine you can pick up a path that leads to the south-east. Follow this for ~3.6km until you reach the point where you left the path earlier to reach the Trig Pillar. From here retrace your steps to the start of the walk at Varteg Road.

While in Blaenavon it’s worth spending a bit more time there to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site attractions and the Historic Railway. I completed the walk just in time to take a ride on the old steam train that follows the track connecting the Whistle Inn Halt and Varteg Road. You’ll get a great view of Coety Mountain and Mynydd Farteg Fawr on the trip.

Blaenavon's Heritage Railway

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, Monmouthshire, Wales, UNESCOComment
Wentwood: Newport High Point

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Newport
Member of: Marilyns
Parent Peak: TBC. NHN = Mynydd Twyn-glas
Elevation: 309m
Date climbed: August 20th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 38' 40'' N, 2° 51' 8'' W

Route Start & Finish: Cadeira Beeches car park, Usk Road, Llanvaches, Newport, NP26 3AZ
Route Distance: 2.6 km (1.6 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 37m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: N/A
OS Trig Pillar: TP6796 - Wentwood
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Newport & Pontypool/Casnewydd a Pont-y-Pŵl Map | Caerleon & Usk | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 152
Links: Wikipedia: Newport / Wentwood, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Wentwood is the high point of the Welsh Principal Area of Newport within the Historic County of Monmouthshire. The Trig Pillar that marks the summit can be reached on a 2.6km out-and-back walk from the Cadeira Beeches car park. There’s an even closer parking spot just to the east of the Trig Pillar accessible from the north/south road that connects the A48 with Usk Road. I was there early on a Sunday morning and there was plenty of room to park so I made this one a very quick drive-by on the way to the more interesting Coety Mountain.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, Monmouthshire, WalesComment
Merthyr Common & Pen March: Merthyr Tydfill & Caerphilly High Points

Pontsticill Reservoir and view to the Brecon Beacons

Merthyr Common

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Merthyr Tydfil
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Cefn yr Ystrad. NHN = Pen March
Elevation: 531m
Coordinates: 51° 47' 25'' N, 3° 20' 6'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Merthyr Tydfil), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Pen March

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Caerphilly
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Cefn yr Ystrad. NHN = Cefn yr Ystrad
Elevation: 535m
Coordinates: 51° 47' 27'' N, 3° 19' 56'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Caerphilly), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:

Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Route Start & Finish: Red Cow Inn, Main Road, Pontsticill, Merthyr Tydfil, CF48 2UN
Route Distance: 6.6 km (4.1 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 284m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Taff Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 8
Pubs / Cafes on route: Red Cow Inn at start and finish
Map: Brecon Beacons National Park / Parc Cenedlaethol Bannau Brycheiniog Map | Western Area | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL12
Links: Pontisticill, Pontsticill Reservoir, Brecon Beacons National Park

This walk covers the high points of both the Welsh Principal Areas of Merthyr Tydfil and Caerphilly.

To start the walk I parked outside the Red Cow Inn at Pontsticill and followed the road down the hill to cross over Taff Fechan (river) to meet the Taff Trail. Cross the road opposite the water treatment plant to join a footpath that leads up the hill in a north-easterly direction. The path crosses under the Brecon Mountain Railway to meet a path junction at the 350m contour line. Take a right and keep to the path now heading south-east. At the 440m contour line, approximately 1.4km into the walk, leave the path and cross open land towards the high points. This is where I found it essential to follow my GPX track as it’s easy to get lost up there.

The route to the high point roughly follows the border of Merthyr Tydfil and Powys until you reach a dry pond that marks the Merthyr / Powys / Caerphilly county tri-point. The Merthyr Common high point is to the west of the pond and Pen March to the east. There’s nothing to mark either and neither feels like an achieved summit as the ground in Powys to the north of the border is higher.

My original plan for this walk was to include the Trig Point at the summit of Cefn Yr Ystrad. It was now late in a full day of high-point bagging, getting cold and the route to the Trig Pillar was boggy. I decided to leave Cefn Yr Ystrad for another day, return to Pontsticill and rest for more high-points the next day.

2 Peaks and a County Tri-point

Map base = Esri Topo

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, Brecon Beacons, National Park, Brecknockshire, Glamorganshire, WalesComment
Mynydd y Betws: Swansea High Point

Penlle'r Castel

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Swansea
Member of: Marilyns
Parent Peak: TBC. NHN = Garreg Lwyd
Elevation: 373m
Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 46' 2'' N, 3° 56' 15'' W

Route Start & Finish: Parking spot at junction of 2 small roads at marker 48 of the Gower Way
Route Distance: 1.3 km (>1 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 55m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Gower Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP5000 - Mynydd Bettws
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Swansea/Abertawe Map | Neath/Castell-Nedd & Port Talbot | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 165
Links: Wikipedia: (Swansea / Mynydd y Betws / Penlle'r Castell), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Mynydd y Betws is the high point of the Welsh Principal Area of Swansea within the Historic County of Glamorganshire.

It’s a misleading name as the Swansea high point is at Penlle'r Castel, an historic ruin on the summit of Mynydd y Gwair. There’s a nearby Trig Pillar called Mynydd Betws and, according to the map I was using, another summit called Mynydd y Betws with an elevation of 341m. I decided to bag them all just to be sure. My plan was to do them in a circular walk from the start of the access road to the farm near the Trig Pillar. It was wet and windy when I arrived so I decided to bag the Trig Pillar and the 341m peak first, then drive closer to the path to Penlle'r Castel.

The best place to park for access to Penlle'r Castel is at a path junction by marker 48 of The Gower Way on the east side of the hill. If you’re driving there from the south you’ll likely come up the Rhydypandy Road. This passes very close to the western side of the summit shortly before a sharp bend in the road and a steep descent. There’s no safe parking space here, so continue down the hill, then take a right at the first junction to find the parking spot at Gower Way marker 48. Note that the road junction you will have just taken is the tri-point of the counties of Swansea, Carmarthenshire and Neath Port Talbot.

From the parking spot follow the Gower Way to the remains of Penlle'r Castel. My map had the 371m point a little further to the south-west so I continued along the path, almost to the Rhydypandy Road. Retrace your steps to return to the parking spot.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, Glamorganshire, WalesComment
Garth Hill: Cardiff High Point

Approaching the summit of Garth Hill

Also known as: Mynydd y Garth (Welsh), The Garth
Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Cardiff
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: TBC. NHN = Cefn Eglwysilan
Elevation: 307m
Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 32' 36'' N, 3° 17' 40'' W

Route Start & Finish: The Taffs Well Inn, Cardiff Road, Taff's Well, Cardiff, CF15 7PR
Route Distance: 6.2 km (3.6 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 260m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: N/A … the Taff Trail runs past Taff’s Well Station
OS Trig Pillar: TP3324 - Garth
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Taff’s Well Inn (start), The Gwaelod-y-Garth Inn (600m in)
Map: Cardiff & Bridgend / Caerdydd a Pen-y-Bont Ar Ogwr Map | Vale of Glamorgan / Bro Morgannwg | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 151
Links: Wikipedia: Garth Hill / Cardiff / Taff’s Well, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Garth Hill is the high point of the Welsh Principal Area of Cardiff within the Historic County of Glamorganshire.

With all of the English, Welsh and Northern Irish Historic County Tops in the bag, I had now turned my attention to the modern day counties and Unitary Authorities. The Wife was away and I had a free weekend in hand so I drove to Cardiff for 2 days of bagging the High Points of the South Wales Principal Areas. I had already bagged Werfa (Mynydd Llangeinwyr) on a separate trip back in 2019, so I had 8 to complete in this trip.

After spending the night in Cardiff and ticking off Cardiff parkrun I headed north along the a River Taff to the small village of Taff’s Well. Taff's Well is a village in the south-east of Rhondda Cynon Taf, about 6 miles (9.7 km) north of Cardiff. It is known locally as the "Gates to the Valleys". The village is named after the River Taff, which flows through it, and the warm spring within Taff's Well Park. The spring is the only thermal spring in Wales, and is thought to rise from the carboniferous limestone. The water is tepid, with a temperature of around 18 degrees Celsius. Taff's Well was a popular spa resort in the 19th century, and people would travel from all over the UK and Europe to bathe in its waters. The spa closed in the early 20th century, but the spring is still a popular local tourist attraction.

Taff’s Well Station is an obvious place to start the walk but as I was driving I managed to save 1 km each way by parking on the road outside The Taff’s Well Inn. From here there’s a path that crosses the River Taff before climbing steeply up to Main Road. Take a right onto Main Road and then, just in front of The Gwaelod-y-Garth Inn, take a left up Route des Alpes road. Continue up Route des Alpes, gradually ascending for 1 km until you reach a path that takes a sharp right hand turn towards the north-east away from the road. Continue up the path and curve round to the north-west to the trig pillar at the summit.

For the descent retrace your steps to the start but take a few moments, 1km from the summit, to visit the cliff edge view over Taff’s Well and along the Taff Valley toward Cardiff. Shortly after the view-point there’s a path leading directly down to Route des Alpes road. I decided to take this rather than the longer route I came up with. It turned out to be very steep and, after a lot of recent rain, very slippery. I got down but mostly by sliding down on my arse grabbing hold of any heather I could find. It’s definitely a shorter route but not necessarily quicker and, if I were to do it again, I would avoid it in favour of returning via the same route I had come up on.

One peak completed … now on to Tair Onnen in the Vale of Glamorgan.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Glamorganshire, WalesComment
Roque Nublo and Pico de las Nieves, Gran Canaria

Ascent to Roque Nublo from La Goleta

While we were in Gran Canaria for a short winter break we escaped the coast for a day to head into the mountains. Our main destination was the high-point of the island, but there’s a lot of interesting places to stop along the way. As Camino enthusiasts we would have loved to have walked the 67 km Camino de Gran Canaria from Maspolomas to Galdar, but this was a relaxing holiday rather than an adventure. We got to see some of the Camino though as the road to the island high-point runs parallel to the southern half of the walking route. The Camino starts at the Faro (lighthouse) in Meloneras on the western side of Maspolomas and we had already visited it after a walk across the dunes on our first day.

For our roadtrip to the high-point we took the GC-60 north out of Maspolomas. There’s a few interesting places to stop along the way:

  • Mirador Astronómico de la Degollada de las Yeguas. 12km out from Maspolomas, this is a viewpoint with amazing view both back to the coast and of the Barranco de Fataga. It is situated at an altitude of 1,480 meters, making it one of the best places on the island to observe the stars and the night sky.

  • Necrópolis de Arteara. 16km out from Maspolomas, this is an ancient burial site considered one of the most important pre-Hispanic archaeological sites in the Canary Islands. The site consists of over 900 tombs that were used by the Guanches, the aboriginal people of the Canary Islands. The tombs are arranged in a circular pattern and are made of stone slabs and boulders.

  • San Bartolomé de Tirajana. 16km out from Maspolomas, this is a pretty village in the mountains that’s a great place to stop for lunch on the trip. Don’t miss the Tunte Catholic Church (Iglesia San Bartolomé), a natural stop on the Camino route.

Roque Nublo

Start / Finish: Roque Nublo Trailhead, GC-600, 35299 San Bartolomé de Tirajana, Las Palmas
Distance: 3.1 km (1.9 miles)
Elevation Change: +/- 151m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): Route is along the S-70. Crosses the S-51 at the trailhead
Cafe / pub on route: Food van at trailhead by the road.
Map: Gran Canaria Tour and Trail Super-Durable Map
Guidebook: Walking on Gran Canaria: 45 day walks including five days on the GR131 coast-to-coast route (Cicerone Walking Guides)
Links: Roque Nublo, Tejeda

42 km out from Maspolomas, this is a famous volcanic rock formation located in the centre of the island. It stands at an impressive height of 80 meters and is a popular attraction for visitors to the island. Roque Nublo is a volcanic formation that dates back millions of years and is considered a sacred site by the aboriginal people of the Canary Islands, the Guanches.

The top Roque Nublo is the third altitude of the island of Gran Canaria, although accessing the summit requires rock climbing. For the rest of us the 2 mile oute-and-back walk from the parking spot on the GC600 is spectacular enough.

Pico de las Nieves

Also known as: Los Pechos
Significance: 2nd highest peak on Gran Canaria
Elevation: 1,951m
Date “climbed”: 20th February 2023
Coordinates: 27° 57' 43'' N, 15° 34' 18'' W

Start / Finish: Parking at Pico de los Pozos viewpoint, 35299 Gran Canaria
Distance: 0.1 km (0.1 miles)
Elevation Change: +/- 2m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): S-20, S-37 and S-50
Cafe / pub on route: Food van in car-park.
Map: Gran Canaria Tour and Trail Super-Durable Map
Guidebook: Walking on Gran Canaria: 45 day walks including five days on the GR131 coast-to-coast route (Cicerone Walking Guides)
Links: Pico de las Nieves, Morro de la Agujereada, Province of Las Palmas, Peakbagger: Pico de las Nieves

50 km out from Maspolomas, Pico de las Nieves was the main attraction for our day in the mountains. The summit was considered the highest peak on the island, and it was the high point that I found on my initial research about the island. It’s actually the 2nd highest peak of Gran Canaria, behind the neighboring Morro de la Agujereada (at 1,956m).

You can access the summit as a quick drive-by as there’s a road to a car-park very close to the top. From the car-park it’s a short climb up some steps to the stone pillar that marks the summit.

When you look across to Morro de la Agujereada it’s a wonder how anyone would have thought that Pico de las Nieves was higher. As much as I would have loved to have summited the real high point, it’s another one, like Roque Nublo, for the rock climbers.

To return to Maspolomas by car from Pico de las Nieves, continue east along the GC-130 then take the GC-120 from Cazadores towards the Airport. Take the GC-1 south to Maspolomas. Total driving time approx 1 hour.

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Canary Islands, Spain, Island High Points Comments
UK National Parks, National Landscapes (AONB) and NSA High Points

If bagging all of the UK Historic and Present-Day County tops plus the Unitary Authorities isn’t enough for you, there’s also the high points of the National Parks, National Landscapes (AONBs) and National Scenic Areas (NSAs).

Contact me if you spot any mistakes and I’ll donate £1 to one of my supported causes for each correction made.

UK National Parks High Points

Of the 15 UK National Parks 10 have a high point that is also an Historic County Top. One other, Whernside is the high point of the Ceremonial County of North Yorkshire and was the high point of the Administrative County of the West Riding of Yorkshire. The highest National Park Peak that’s not also a County Top is Ben More (not to be confused with Ben More Assynt) in the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.

UK National Parks

  1. Cairngorms National Park (Scotland): Ben Macdui (1,309 metres).

  2. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park (Scotland): Ben More (1,174 metres).

  3. Snowdonia National Park (Wales): Snowdon / Yr Wyddfa (1085 metres).

  4. Lake District National Park (England): Scafell Pike (978 metres).

  5. Brecon Beacons National Park (Wales): Pen y Fan (886 metres).

  6. Northumberland National Park (England): The Cheviot (815 metres).

  7. Yorkshire Dales National Park (England): Whernside (736 metres).

  8. Peak District National Park (England): Kinder Scout (636 metres).

  9. Dartmoor National Park (England): High Willhays (621 metres).

  10. Pembrokeshire Coast National Park (Wales): Foel Cwmcerwyn (536 metres).

  11. Exmoor National Park (England): Dunkery Beacon (519 metres).

  12. North York Moors National Park (England): Urra Moor - Round Hill (454 metres).

  13. South Downs National Park (England): Black Down (280 metres).

  14. New Forest National Park (England): Pipers Wait (129 metres) or Telegraph Hill (127 metres).

  15. The Broads National Park (England): Strumpshaw Hill - South Slope (40 metres).

England, Wales and Northern Ireland National Landscapes High Points

National Parks and National Landscapes are both protected areas in the United Kingdom, but they have different designations and management structures. National Parks are designated by the UK government for their outstanding natural beauty, cultural heritage and recreational opportunities. They are managed by National Park Authorities and have specific planning policies to protect their landscapes and wildlife. On the other hand, National Landscapes are also designated by the government for their outstanding natural beauty but are managed by local authorities and partnerships. They have different planning policies compared to National Parks. National Parks tend to be more remote and wilder, while National Landscapes are often found close to populated areas and include cultural heritage and agricultural landscapes. Both National Parks and National Landscapes are intended to be enjoyed and appreciated by the public but the management, planning policies, and protection of the areas can differ.

National Landscapes were previously called Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) until On 22 November 2023.

There are 46 National Landscapes in the UK of which 16 are the county tops of the Historic Counties that they are in. St Boniface Down is the high point of both the Ceremonial County of the Isle of Wight and the Isle of Wight National Landscape.

There were 2 National Landscapes that I couldn’t find a high point for when researching this: Suffolk Coast and Heaths National Landscape and Lagan Valley National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Let me know if you know what these high points are and I can update the list.

  • North Pennines National Landscape (England). Cross Fell (893m).

  • Mourne Mountains National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Slieve Donard (850m).

  • Nidderdale National Landscape (England). Great Whernside (704m).

  • Sperrins National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Sawel Mountain (678m).

  • Ring of Gullion National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Slieve Gullion (576m).

  • Forest of Bowland National Landscape (England). Ward's Stone (561m).

  • Llŷn Peninsula National Landscape (Wales). Yr Eifl (561m).

  • Clwydian Range and Dee Valley National Landscape (Wales). Moel Famau (555m).

  • Antrim Coast and Glens National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Trostan (550m).

  • Shropshire Hills National Landscape (England). Brown Clee Hill (540m).

  • Malvern Hills National Landscape (England). Worcestershire Beacon (425m).

  • Cornwall National Landscape (England). Brown Willy (420m).

  • Binevenagh National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Binevenagh (385m).

  • Tamar Valley National Landscape (England). Kit Hill (334m).

  • Cotswolds National Landscape (England). Cleeve Common (330m).

  • Mendip Hills National Landscape (England). Beacon Batch (325m).

  • Blackdown Hills National Landscape (England). Staple Hill (315m).

  • Wye Valley National Landscape (England / Wales). Trellech Beacon (313m).

  • North Wessex Downs National Landscape (England). Walbury Hill (297m).

  • Surrey Hills National Landscape (England). Leith Hill (294m).

  • Dorset National Landscape (England). Lewesdon Hill (279m).

  • Cranborne Chase and the West Wiltshire Downs National Landscape (England). Win Green (277m).

  • North Devon Coast National Landscape (England). Berry Down near Combe Martin (269m).

  • Chiltern Hills National Landscape (England). Haddington Hill (267m).

  • Somerset - Quantock Hills National Landscape (England). Wills Neck (263m).

  • East Devon National Landscape (England). Gittisham Hill (259m).

  • Kent Downs National Landscape (England). Toy's Hill (257m).

  • Cannock Chase ANational Landscape NB (England). Castle Ring (242m).

  • High Weald National Landscape (England). Crowborough Beacon (242m).

  • Isle of Wight National Landscape (England). St Boniface Down (241m).

  • Anglesey National Landscape (Wales). Holyhead Mountain (220m).

  • South Devon National Landscape (England). Blackdown Camp (199m).

  • Gower Peninsula National Landscape (Wales). The Beacon at Rhossili Down (193m).

  • Howardian Hills National Landscape (England). Yearsley Cross (174m).

  • Lincolnshire Wolds National Landscape (England). Wolds Top / Normanby Hill (168m).

  • Arnside and Silverdale National Landscape (England). Warton Crag (163m).

  • Strangford and Lecale National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Scrabo Hill (161m).

  • Causeway Coast National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Carnduff Hill (114m).

  • Norfolk Coast National Landscape (England). Beacon Hill (105m).

  • Northumberland Coast National Landscape (England). South Hill (75m).

  • Dedham Vale National Landscape (England). Broom Hill (69m).

  • Solway Coast National Landscape (England). Pudding Pie Hill (56m).

  • Isles of Scilly National Landscape (England). Telegraph on St Mary’s (49m).

  • Chichester Harbour National Landscape (England). c. two locations with 9m spot height (9m).

To be verified … couldn’t find these originally but have been identified by Joel Adcock.

  • Suffolk Coast and Heaths National Landscape (England): Holbrook Park, (~44m)

  • Lagan Valley National Landscape (Northern Ireland). In garden of private property on Tullyard Rd, Lisburn BT27 5JN (164m)

Scottish NSA High Points

National Landscapes and National Scenic Areas (NSA) are both designations used in the United Kingdom to protect and promote areas of exceptional natural beauty. However, there are some key differences between the two. National Landscapes are designated by the UK government and are considered to be the most important landscapes in the country, with the highest level of protection afforded to them. NSAs, on the other hand, are designated by the Scottish government and, while they also offer protection to areas of exceptional natural beauty, they do not have the same level of legal protection as National Landscapes. Additionally, National Landscapes are managed by local authorities, while NSAs are managed by Scottish National Parks. Both National Landscapes and NSAs are intended to be enjoyed and appreciated by the public, but the management and protection of the areas can differ.

There are 40 National Scenic Areas (NSA) in Scotland, of which 8 are the county tops of the Historic Counties that they are in. There were 12 NSAs that I couldn’t find a high point for when researching this (scroll down to see). These are mostly in coastal areas without notable high points. Let me know if you know what these high points are and I can update the list.

  • Ben Nevis and Glen Coe NSA: Ben Nevis (1344m).

  • Cairngorm Mountains NSA: Ben Macdui (1309m).

  • Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA: Ben Lawers (1214m).

  • Glen Affric NSA: Càrn Eige (1183m).

  • Deeside and Lochnagar NSA: Lochnagar / Beinn Chìochan (1156m).

  • Glen Strathfarrar NSA: Sgùrr a' Choire Ghlais (1083m).

  • Kintail NSA: Sgurr Fhuaran (1068m).

  • Wester Ross NSA: An Teallach (1062m).

  • Knoydart NSA: Sgurr na Cìche (1040m).

  • Assynt-Coigach NSA: Ben More Assynt (998m).

  • Loch Lomond NSA: Ben Lomond (974m).

  • Cuillin Hills NSA: Sgùrr nan Gillean (964m).

  • North West Sutherland NSA: Foinaven (909m).

  • Loch Shiel NSA: Beinn Odhar Bheag (882m).

  • The Trossachs NSA: Ben Ledi (879m).

  • North Arran NSA: Goat Fell (873.5m).

  • Upper Tweeddale NSA: Broad Law (840m).

  • Small Isles NSA: Askival (812m).

  • South Lewis, Harris and North Uist NSA: Clisham (799m).

  • Jura NSA: Beinn an Òir (785m).

  • Trotternish NSA: The Storr (719m).

  • South Uist Machair NSA: Beinn Mhòr (620m).

  • Hoy and West Mainland NSA: Ward Hill (481m).

  • Knapdale NSA: Cruach Lusach (466m).

  • Scarba, Lunga and the Garvellachs NSA: Scarba (449m).

  • St Kilda NSA: Conachair (430m).

  • Eildon and Leaderfoot NSA: Eildon Hill (422m).

  • Lynn of Lorn NSA: Barr Mòr (127m).

To be verified … couldn’t find these originally but have been identified by Joel Adcock.

  • Dornoch Firth NSA: unnamed summit (387m)

  • East Stewartry Coast NSA: Bengairn (391m).

  • Fleet Valley NSA: Ben John (354m)

  • Kyle of Tongue NSA: Ben Hope (927m)

  • Kyles of Bute NSA: Meallan Riabhach (484m).

  • Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull NSA: Ben More (967m)

  • Loch Tummel NSA: Meall Tairneachan (787m)

  • Morar, Moidart and Ardnamurchan NSA: Meall nan Each (490m)

  • Nith Estuary NSA: Criffel (569m).

  • River Earn (Comrie to St. Fillans) NSA: Either slope of Beinn Fuath (~650 metres) or Mor Beinn (640m)

  • River Tay (Dunkeld) NSA: Creag Dhubh (498m)

  • Shetland NSA: The Sneug (418m)

More High Points

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, National Park, England, Scotland, Wales, Northern IrelandComment
Walking the Akrotiri Monastery Katholiko Trail, Crete

Descending to the monastery

Start & Finish: Gouverneto Monastery, Chania 731 00, Greece
Distance: 2.8 km (1.7 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 164m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Katholiko-Stavros
Links: Akrotiri, Agia Triada Monastery, Gouverneto Monastery, Arkoudiotissa Cave

The Akrotiri Peninsular, not to be confused with the one in Cyprus, sticks out of the north coast of Crete to the east of Chania. We took a day trip at the end of our holiday to drive round the edge and visit the beaches. The monasteries in the mountains to the north are worth a visit as is the short but steep walk to the Katholiko ruins. The Katholiko was opened in the 11th century and abandoned in the 16th century due to pirate raids.

To get to the walk, drive to the Holy Trinity (Agia Triada) Tzagaroli Monastery. This is an interesting place to stop and visit the church and museum. From here follow the road for 4.2 km to the car park next to the Gouverneto Monastery. This monastery was closed when we got there so we did the walk to the Katholiko first.

There’s a very obvious path from the monastery down to the ruins. After 1km you’ll reach the Arkoudospilio Cave, also known as the Bear Cave. The name comes from the large bear-shaped stalagmite that is ready to drink water. The legend is that the Virgin Mary turned the bear that was stealing the water of the monks living nearby into stone.

After another 400m you’ll reach the ruins of the Katholiko Monastery. There’s another trail that we considered walking that joins from town of Stavros to the west. Another option is to descend further along the trail to the beach. Both options were tempting but it was a very hot day so an out-and-back from the Monastery to the Katholiko was enough for us.

The Gouverneto Monastery was just opening by the time we got back there at 17:00. We were just in time to observe the service in the church. If you visit note that you can’t enter wearing shorts but you can borrow a skirt at the entrance to cover your legs.

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Coast, Crete, GreeceComment
Walking the Samaria Gorge, Crete

Near the Trailhead.

Start: Samaria Gorge Trailhead, Μονοπ. Φαράγγι Σαμαριάς, 730 11, Greece
Finish: Ferry dock, Agia Roumeli, Hora Sfakion 730 11, Greece
Distance: 16 km (10 miles)
Elevation change: +442m / -1,657m. Net -1,215m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Papoures Trail
Links: Samaria Gorge, Lefka Ori (White Mountains), Agia Roumeli, Sougia

If you’re a fan of hiking and the outdoors in general then Samaria Gorge is a must-do for a trip to Crete. Wife and I had planned to do it together but she was sick for the first half of our holiday. We decided that I should do it alone while she recovered. This turned out to be the right plan as you really need to be on top form to do the trip.

The trailhead is an hour from Chania, the nearest large town. Unless you stay near the start overnight you’ve got at least 2 hours of driving time to get there and back. The gorge walk is a point-to-point from the entrance at 1,230m elevation down to Agia Roumeli on the coast. There’s no road access to the town so you need to get a ferry to Sougia and a bus back to the start. From leaving my hotel (90 mins from the trailhead), I was back 13 hours later.

It’s definitely worth it though. The whole of the gorge walk was stunning with photo opportunities at every turn. The first section, a steep descent through pine forest, reminded me of parts of the Inca Trail. The path is narrow and can be difficult to overtake other hikers at times so it’s good to go when it’s quiet. I was there in early October, just out of peak season. My first hour, starting at 10:00, only had a handful of other hikers on it. It got busier when I caught up with a bus party who had spread out a little formed a convoy along the path.

There’s several water and toilet spots along the route. You’ll need to take enough food and your own toilet paper if you don’t want to risk the supplies on the route. At around 7 km in you’ll reach the old village of Samaria which is a great place to stop for a while and have lunch before the final sections.

I found the path to be quieter after the old village. This was probably as I was on a brisker pace than most and only took a short stop for lunch. This second half is less steep and has a different, more barren environment. There were also more people coming in the opposite direction, presumably doing an out-and-back between the coast and the village.

The final few kilometres are a highlight as the route criss crosses the flowing river across rickety wooden bridges. The walls of the gorge close in funnelling you through some tighter, more dramatic sections.

At the end of the walk you’ll find another booth where you give them half of your entry ticket. This is so that they can tally the numbers to check that no one is left in the gorge at the end of the day. There’s a couple of cafes immediately outside the National Park boundary but, unless you’re starving, it’s better to get to the town for food.

From the end of the trail it’s an extra 2.5 km to the coast. There’s a private shuttle bus operating the last 2 km for 2 euros each. As ready for a rest as I was I wasn’t tempted by the bus. I’d completed a 15km gorge walk so I wasn’t going to take a bus for a flat 2 km.

The main option to return to the start is to get a ferry to a Sougia then the bus to the trailhead. Ferries were fairly infrequent when I was there so I had to wait 3 hours for the 17:30 boat. Although the town is small and seems to exist only for the ferries, I was glad of the time for a long, slow lunch and a rest at the end of the walk.

You’ll need to buy your ticket ahead of getting on board but there’s a few options to do so. You can book online, as I did, and get an email confirmation. Alternatively you can buy them at the trailhead cafe or at the ticket office on town’s main street. Don’t expect to buy them on the boat though, as one couple found out when they were left behind by the last ferry of the day.

You can buy your bus tickets either at the trailhead or Agia Roumeli ticket offices or at a small booth in Sougia. Personally I wouldn’t risk leaving it until Sougia so I bought mine at the trailhead. The bus operation is very efficient with several of them waiting near the ferry terminal, departing shortly after the boats arrived.

The ferry takes 50 mins for the larger car and passenger ferry or 25 minutes for the smaller passenger only ferry. The bus takes 50 minutes to return to the trailhead and drops off next to the main car park. Although you can park for free at the side of the road leading up to the trailhead, the car park is safer and saves you another walk at the end of the day back to your car.

If you don’t have a car there’s several options to go with an organised tour. The options were around 40 euro per person as a part of a large bus tour or in in the hundreds per group for a private tour. If you do have a car then getting to the trailhead yourself is by far the cheapest and most convenient option.

My costs for the trip, excluding hire car costs and petrol were:

  • Parking: 5 euro

  • Gorge entrance fee: 5 euro

  • Ferry ticket: 13 euro

  • Bus ticket: 4.80 euro

  • Total 27:80 euro

Red = The Samaria Gorge Walk, Blue = ferry route to Sougia, Green = Bus route back to the Trailhead

Richard gowerTrek, Mountain, Coast, Crete, GreeceComment
Edinburgh Crescent County Tops

Ascent of Innerdouny Hill

Our UK County Top bagging trips have now got into a rhythm of an annual long weekend at the end of September. Our group has also grown to 6, although there’s always the inevitable last minute cancellation due to house move / new job / failing body / [*insert excuse here]. For our second Scottish adventure we tackled the “Edinburgh Crescent”, a collection of 6 high points covering 7 historic counties, all within an hour of Edinburgh airport.

We also managed to bag a couple of “bonus peaks”, Allermuir HIll and Arthur’s Seat over the weekend. See this post for details on these.

West Lomond

Significance: Highest peak in Fife (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Ben Cleuch NHN = Innerdownie
Elevation: 522m
Date climbed: 23rd September 2022
Coordinates: 56° 14' 43'' N, 3° 17' 49'' W
Route Start / End: Bunnet Stane Car Park, Cupar, KY14 7RR
Route Distance: 4.5 km (2.8 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 365m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 1 / EV12 passes Bunnet Stane Car Park
OS Trig Pillar: TP0674 - West Lomond
Map: Glenrothes North, Falkland & Lomond Hills Map | Auchtermuchty & Cupar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 370
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (West Lomond), Wikipedia (Fife), Bunnet Stane, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Having landed in Edinburgh Airport mid-morning on the Friday, we picked up a rental car for the 40 minute drive to West Lomond. This is the most north-easterly of this trip’s peaks and a nice warm-up for the longer treks to follow. We met with Joel, who drove from Northern Ireland, at Bunnet Stane Car Park. Don’t let the “car park” label fool you though, it’s just a layby for about 4 cars with a parking sign on it.

The walk to the summit is fairly straightforward, initially flat before getting steeper after Bunnet Stane. This is a rock formation with a man-made cave at the bottom and a information sign describing the history and myth around it. It’s worth stopping here to check it out before the ascent to the summit.

There’s several footpaths to the Trig Pillar at summit but we chose the most well-trodden. For the descent I originally planned to return on the same route but decided at the top to mix it up a bit and make it a circle. This didn’t work out too well as the path I chose to follow was cut of by a fence ahead of a steep drop. We took a alternative, slightly less steep, route down to meet the path we came up on. In hindsight we would have been better off sticking to the out-and-back.

Innerdouny Hill

Significance: Highest peak in Kinross-shire (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Ben Cleuch NHN = Innerdownie
Elevation: 497m
Date climbed: 23rd September 2022
Coordinates: 56° 14' 55'' N, 3° 33' 48'' W
Route Start / End: Forestry Commission Car Park at Littlerig on B934
Route Distance: 9.2 km (5.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 220m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP4108 - Innerdouny Hill
Map: Perth & Kinross Map | Ochil Hills East & Loch Leven | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Active Map 369
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Innerdouny Hill), Wikipedia (Kinross-shire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

After West Lomond it’s a half an hour drive to the Littlerig Forestry Commission car park at the start of the walk to Innerdouny Hill. The car park didn’t come up on our sat-nav so we just headed north along the B934 looking out for it on the right. In the end it was easy to find and enough parking for several cars. Given the relative obscurity of the peak, it’s unlikely that you’ll be fighting for a parking spot here.

This is a longer walk than West Lomond but much less elevation. The first 3.9 km follows a wide Forestry Commission track before taking a right turn up a narrow path to the summit. We were there on a very clear day and got great views over the Firth of Forth and some of the other peaks of our trip.

As with West Lomond an out-and-back would have been the best plan. Instead we followed a clearing between a wooded area and a wall to try a more direct route down to the start of the track. It definitely made a more interesting route but in reality didn’t save much time or distance vs. retracing our steps from the summit.

Ben Cleuch

Significance: Highest peak in Clackmannanshire (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Donald, Graham
Parent Peak: Ben Chonzie NHN = Carn Chois
Elevation: 721m
Date climbed: 24th September 2022
Coordinates: 56° 11' 8'' N, 3° 46' 10'' W
Route Start / End: Free on-street parking at Upper Mill Street, Tillicoultry, FK13 6AX
Route Distance: 7.9 km (4.9 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 650m
Subsidiary tops on route: The Law (638m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0672 - Ben Cleugh
Map: Stirling & Ochil Hills West Map | Alloa & Dunblane | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 366
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Ben Cleuch), Wikipedia (Clackmannanshire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Day 2 started with the University of Stirling parkrun, right next to the hotel where we were staying. Stirling is a good option for an overnight stay on the trip and our hotel, part of the University campus, worked out well.

From Stirling it was less than a 30 minute drive to the start of the walk to Ben Cleuch. This was a shorter distance than the previous 2 walks but much higher elevation. Navigation is straightforward as there’s a very well-trodden path to the summit.

Learning from Day 1 we stuck to the out-and-back plan and didn’t attempt a creative alternative route back to the car. The Woolpack Inn, close to the start point, is a good place for a pint and a rest before heading to the Lothians.

Cairnpapple Hill

Significance: Highest peak in West Lothian (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: West Cairn Hill NHN = West Cairn HIll
Elevation: 312m
Date climbed: 24th September 2022
Coordinates: 55° 55' 22'' N, 3° 37' 18'' W
Route Start / End: Cairnpapple Hill parking, 2km from Torphichen, Bathgate, EH48 4LD
Route Distance: 650 km (0.4 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 14m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: Falkirk, Cumbernauld & Livingston Map | Linlithgow, Bathgate & Kilsyth | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 349
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Cairnpapple Hill), Wikipedia (West Lothian), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Our original plan for Cairnpapple was to follow the short circular route in Jonny Muir’s guidebook. We parked at the small Cairnpapple parking area and took the well-marked south-westerly path to the burial mound. Cairnpapple is commonly regarded as the highest point in West Lothian although the Ballencreif Hill Trig Pillar to the south is higher. Jonny Muir’s guide has the walk continuing in a straight line south from the burial ground to the Trig. Some boundary work must have been done in the meantime as we found a new fence in the way and no obvious means to walk straight to the Trig. Note that Historic Scotland charges an entry fee to the burial ground, although it’s easy to avoid it as the ticket office is not on the gate.

Separate walk to The Knook and the Trig Pillar:

Route Start / End: Top Point Parking, Unnamed Road (south of Cairnpapple Hill), Bathgate, EH48
Route Distance: 1.1 km (0.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 16m
OS Trig Pillar: TP0991 - Ballencrieff Hill
Links: Peakbagger (Knock)

To access the Trig Pillar we returned to the car and drove south down the minor road to a layby near the gate to the field containing the Trig Pillar. Alternative parking can be found on the south side of Knock Hill, another contender for West Lothian’s high point. After climbing to the toposcope on Knock Hill we cross the field to bag the Trig Pillar.

Blackhope Scar

Significance: Highest peak in Midlothian (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Donald, Graham
Parent Peak: Windlestraw Law NHN = Windlestraw Law
Elevation: 651m
Date climbed: 25th September 2022
Coordinates: 55° 43' 25'' N, 3° 5' 31'' W
Route Start / End: Small parking area on southern end of Gladhouse Reservoir
Route Distance: 17.7 km (11 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 518m
Subsidiary tops on route: The Kips (542m), Bowbeat Hill (636m), Bowbeat Rig (585), Dundreich (623m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP1448 - Blackhope Scar and
Map: TP1448 - Blackhope Scar and TP2914 - Dundreich
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Blackhope Scar), Wikipedia (Midlothian), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Blackhope Scar was the longest and most interesting of the weekend’s peaks. The small parking area on the southern edge of Gladhouse Reservoir is the best, and realistically only, place to start the walk. The first 2 km is fairly flat as the route follows the private road through a farm and up to the ruins of Hirendean Castle. After the ruins the route ascends in a south-westerly direction to the summit. I had read that the route is very boggy and was preparing for a Meikle Fell style swamp. As we were there following a particularly dry summer the ground was solid and much easier than expected.

Jonny Muir’s guidebook shows the route as an out-and-back to the summit but there’s a more interesting circular route. See this post on Walk Highlights and this video on YouTube for good detailed descriptions on the full circular. As well as being more interesting as a circular, you’ll bag an extra Trig Pillar and a couple of extra summits.

Meikle Says Law

Significance: Highest peak in East Lothian (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Windlestraw Law NHN = Windlestraw Law
Elevation: 535m
Coordinates: 55° 50' 49'' N, 2° 40' 13'' W
OS Trig Pillar: TP0685 - Sayers Law
Links: Wikipedia (Lammermuir Hills), Wikipedia (East Lothian), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Meikle Says Law - Southeast Slope

Significance: Highest peak in Berwickshire (Historic CT)
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Meikle Says Law NHN = Meikle Says Law
Elevation: 535m
Coordinates: 55° 50' 45'' N, 2° 40' 15'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Berwickshire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:

Date climbed: 26th September 2022
Route Start / End: Layby opposite to gated entrance to Faseny on Gifford-Longformacus Road
Route Distance: 10.7 km (6.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 251m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: Lammermuir Hills Map | Dalkeith, Bonnyrigg & Gifford | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 345
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)

For our final walk of the weekend we headed to the eastern end of the Lothians for Meikle Says Law. As with Blackhope Scar this involves a short section from the parking area followed by a circular route. We took an anti-clockwise direction on the circular section following a track running parallel to Faseny Water. There’s a few places where the stream crosses the track but we found it easy to jump over without getting wet. It would be a different story after very wet conditions so be prepared to search for other places to cross or make sure that you have good waterproof boots.

Taking the anti-clockwise direction turned out to be a good plan as the track takes you right up to the summit. The Trig Pillar marks the high point of East Lothian. It’s very close to the border with Berwickshire and it’s a 100m walk to the south to bag the high point of that county. There’s nothing to mark the Berwickshire top so we just took a bearing from the gate near the Trig Pillar to the coordinates. It certainly didn’t feel like a summit but there’s was nothing else notable around so we decided to call it there.

From the Berwickshire top we retraced our steps to the Trig Pillar and followed a path on the south side in an easterly direction. The path comes and goes and it’s quite heavy going, but keep to the left of the fence and you’ll be fine. You’ll cross the East Lothian/Berwickshire border a few times on this path but with nothing to mark the boundary.

When you reach a small gate in the fence where another path comes in from the east, you’ll leave the fence, now heading in a north-easterly direction back down to Faseny Water. After crossing the footbridge you’ll have closed the loop and can return to the parking spot on the road.

Driving Distances and Times for the Edinburgh Crescent Road Trip

Based only on connections between the walks. Add more based on accommodation, bonus walks etc. Driving times based on light traffic.

  1. Edinburgh Airport to West Lomond: 32 miles / approx 40 minutes.

  2. West Lomond to Innerdouny Hill: 18 miles / approx 30 minutes.

  3. Innerdouny Hill to Ben Cleugh: 13 miles / approx 30 minutes.

  4. Ben Cleuch to Cairnpapple Hill: 35 miles / approx 60 minutes.

  5. Cairnpapple Hill to Blackhope Scar: 50 miles / approx 90 minutes.

  6. Blackhope Scar to Meikle Says Law: 42 miles / approx 90 minutes.

  7. Meikle Says Law to Edinburgh Airport: 39 miles / approx 60 minutes.

Total drive: 239 miles / approx 6 hours 40 minutes.

Other High Points in the Edinburgh Crescent Area

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, West Lomond, Fife, Kinross-shire, Clackmannanshire, West Lothian, Mid Lothian, East Lothian, Berwickshire, ScotlandComment