Posts tagged National Park
Ben Lomond: Stirlingshire County Top

View over Loch Lomond on the descent from Ben Lomond


Also known as: Beinn Laomainn (“beacon mountain")
Significance
: High Point for the Historic County of Stirlingshire, Loch Lomond NSA High Point
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Beinn Ime.
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Beinn Ime
Elevation: 974m
Date climbed: September 23rd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 11' 25'' N, 4° 37' 59'' W

Route Start & Finish: Ben Lomond (Rowardennan) Car Park, Stirling, G63 0AR
Route Distance: 12 km (7.5 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 913m
Subsidiary tops on route: Ptarmigan (778m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Ben Lomond Trail, Ptarmigan Ridge Path, West Highland Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1283 - Ben Lomond
Pubs / Cafes on route: None on route but the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel is near the car park
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Stirlingshire / Ben Lomond), Peakbagger, Hillbagging


This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. We were on our 3rd day of the trip and had already ticked off Ben Lawers and Ben Vorlich. Now for Ben Lomond, not the highest of the trip, but definitely the most iconic. Ben Lomond is the most southerly Munro, sits on the edge of Loch Lomond and is very close to Glasgow. As such it’s very popular and it can be hard to find parking spots.

We read that in the summer the police close off the road to the main car-park. We were there in late September after the summer peak but we also had to get in a parkrun as it was a Saturday. By the time we arrived it was 11:00 and the main car-park was full so we parked in the overflow instead. This has its advantage though as it’s free and has a direct connection to the Ben Lomond Trail.

We opted for the clockwise circular route, initially following the West Highland Way from the overflow to the main car-park then picking up the Ptarmigan Ridge Path that ascends on the western side of the mountain closest to the Loch. The weather was a bit grey but we still had great views down to the Loch as we climbed.

The different map apps that we had in the group gave different positions for the summit of Ptarmigan so we visited both just to be sure. After Ptarmigan there’s a steep final ascent to the Ben Lomond summit and the Trig Pillar. The summit is flat and, when we were there, fairly crowded with walkers stopping for lunch. After a quick break we continued the circuit, descending down via the Ben Lomond Way.

Near the Loch there’s a path junction with one route to the main car-park and another to the overflow. We took the route to the main car-park to have a celebratory drink at the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel.




Ben Vorlich: Dunbartonshire County Top

View to the south-west on the descent of Ben Vorlich


Also Known as: Beinn Mhùrlaig
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Dunbartonshire
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: xx. NHN = Beinn Ime
Elevation: 943m
Date climbed: September 22nd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 16' 27'' N, 4° 45' 18'' W

Route Start & Finish: Inveruglas Visitor Centre, Inveruglas Farm, A82, Arrochar, G83 7DP
Route Distance: 13.3 km (8.3 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 904m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Loch Lomond and Cowal Way, Three Lochs Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1309 - Ben Vorlich
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at Inveruglas Visitor Centre at start/finish.
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Dunbartonshire / Ben Vorlich), Peakbagger, Hillbagging


This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. After ticking off Ben Lawers we drove south to Balquhidder to stay at the Mhor 84 hotel ahead of tackling Ben Vorlich the next day.

It was during dinner at Mhor 84 that I realised that there was more than one Ben Vorlich and I had planned for the wrong one. Fortunately the correct one was only a 40 minute drive in the direction of our 3rd peak of the trip so we didn’t lose any time overall. Definitely a lesson learned for future trips as I soon found out that there’s also more than one Morven.

With a brand new route plan we arrived at the Inveruglas Visitor Centre for the start of the walk. We often follow Jonny Muir’s guide for the routes but this time decided to take a southern approach to Ben Vorlich instead of the northern route from Ardlui Station that he took.

From the Visitor Centre, head south along the Three Lochs Way following the A82. You’ll pass the Hydroelectric Power Station on your right. After ~900m leave the A82, still following the Three Loch Way along a track now heading west. This track runs parallel to the Inveruglas Water (stream), curving to the north to reach the dam at the southern edge of Loch Stoy.

At ~3km from leaving the A82 and 1 km before the dam you’ll meet a footpath heading steeply up to the right. This is a good place to take a break before the main ascent. Once on the path it’s a further 2.6 km climb to the cairn that marks the summit. You’ll pass the Ben Vorlich Trig Pillar shortly before the high point. For the descent retrace your steps back to the Visitor Centre. As with our Ben Lawers trip the day before, we had a lot of mist, drizzle and wind at the top but much better weather as we descended. Our slog to the top was rewarded by amazing views over both Loch Lomond and Loch Stoy.




Other High Points in the Historic County of Dunbartonshire


Merthyr Common & Pen March: Merthyr Tydfill & Caerphilly High Points

Pontsticill Reservoir and view to the Brecon Beacons


Merthyr Common

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Merthyr Tydfil
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Cefn yr Ystrad. NHN = Pen March
Elevation: 531m
Coordinates: 51° 47' 25'' N, 3° 20' 6'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Merthyr Tydfil), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Pen March

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Caerphilly
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Cefn yr Ystrad. NHN = Cefn yr Ystrad
Elevation: 535m
Coordinates: 51° 47' 27'' N, 3° 19' 56'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Caerphilly), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:

Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Route Start & Finish: Red Cow Inn, Main Road, Pontsticill, Merthyr Tydfil, CF48 2UN
Route Distance: 6.6 km (4.1 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 284m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Taff Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 8
Pubs / Cafes on route: Red Cow Inn at start and finish
Map: Brecon Beacons National Park / Parc Cenedlaethol Bannau Brycheiniog Map | Western Area | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL12
Links: Pontisticill, Pontsticill Reservoir, Brecon Beacons National Park


This walk covers the high points of both the Welsh Principal Areas of Merthyr Tydfil and Caerphilly.

To start the walk I parked outside the Red Cow Inn at Pontsticill and followed the road down the hill to cross over Taff Fechan (river) to meet the Taff Trail. Cross the road opposite the water treatment plant to join a footpath that leads up the hill in a north-easterly direction. The path crosses under the Brecon Mountain Railway to meet a path junction at the 350m contour line. Take a right and keep to the path now heading south-east. At the 440m contour line, approximately 1.4km into the walk, leave the path and cross open land towards the high points. This is where I found it essential to follow my GPX track as it’s easy to get lost up there.

The route to the high point roughly follows the border of Merthyr Tydfil and Powys until you reach a dry pond that marks the Merthyr / Powys / Caerphilly county tri-point. The Merthyr Common high point is to the west of the pond and Pen March to the east. There’s nothing to mark either and neither feels like an achieved summit as the ground in Powys to the north of the border is higher.

My original plan for this walk was to include the Trig Point at the summit of Cefn Yr Ystrad. It was now late in a full day of high-point bagging, getting cold and the route to the Trig Pillar was boggy. I decided to leave Cefn Yr Ystrad for another day, return to Pontsticill and rest for more high-points the next day.



2 Peaks and a County Tri-point

Map base = Esri Topo


Cycling The Semaphore Line: Portsmouth to London

HMS Warrior at the Portmouth Historic Dockyard


The idea for this trip came from a short walk that I did a few years ago in Surrey called Discover Downside. Half way through the walk we came across the Chatley Heath Semphore Tower, the best preserved of a series of towers that formed a line between London and Portsmouth in the 1800s. As I was reading the information board a new adventure started forming. I didn’t have to say anything I could almost hear my wife’s eyes rolling and wondering “what’s he up to now?”.

As described on the Chatley Heath information board: “In 1792, Frenchman Claude Chappe invented the Semaphore using moveable arms on a T-shaped mast. The British Initially stuck with their existing shutter or ball signalling systems even though they were less effective. In 1814 the Admiralty prematurely decommissioned their existing signalling stations. After Napoleon’s escape from Elba and the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, the governament decided to reinstate a signal line from London to Portsmouth Dockyard. They chose to use the semaphore system invested by Sir Home Riggs Popham, as the most advanced of the day.”

“The Chatley Heath Tower was the fifth station in the 75 mile long line, which started on the roof of the Admiraly in Whitehall. It was to have been the junction for a further line to Plymouth, but this was never completed. […] The invention of the electric telegraph in 1839 meant the end for the mechanical semaphore. New telegraph lines were laid alongside the railways and messages travelled instantly down the wires. In 1847 the semaphore line was decommissioned and the mast dismantled.”

Over the next year the back-of-my-mind potential trip became a fully-planned weekend cycle trip for spring 2023. It turned out to be a weekend adventure with a Friday evening drive down to Portsmouth, a long Saturday ride to Godalming and a shorter section on the Sunday before heading back home. The original plan was to take the bikes down to Portsmouth by train but some organizational faffing meant that we left it too late to book and there we no bike spaces available. Instead we did a one-way van rental which was slightly more expensive than the trains would have been but got us there more quickly with less hassle.

The choice of doing the trip from Portsmouth to London rather than the other way around was mostly based on getting in a new (for me) parkrun at Southsea on the Saturday morning. Arriving in London on Sunday afternoon also gave us a shorter journey home.

I need to credit the excellent account of walking the Semaphore Line in the Jont.org.uk blog. This blog was invaluable in the planning process and provides more detail on the stations and route between them than I have covered here. In my post below I’ve covered some key details of the semaphore stations it’s not intended to be a turn-by-turn route guide. I’ll be happy to share my GPX files for the 2 days in return for a virtual coffee.


Day 1: Portsmouth to Godalming

Start: Semaphore Building, HMNB Portsmouth, Victory Gate, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3LJ
Finish: A3100 Meadrow (road), Godalming, GU7 3HS
Distance: 88 km (55 miles)
Elevation change: + 1,301m / -1265m (Net +36m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Solent Way, The Shipwright’s Way, Langstone Harbour Waterfront Route, Wayfarers Way, Sussex Border Path, Monarch’s Way, Octagon Way, South Downs Way, The Serpent Trail, New Lipchis Way, Grayswood Walk, Greensand Way, The Fox Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 2, 22, 222, Surrey Cycleway

 

Semaphore Station 1: Portsmouth Historic Dockyard

Condition: The Semaphore Building was destroyed by fire in 1913, but it was rebuilt in 1930.
Distance into route
: 0 km
Address: Semaphore Building, HMNB Portsmouth, Victory Gate, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3LJ
Coordinates: 50°47'60"N 1°6'36"W
Grid Reference: SU 62826 00415
Elevation: 1m
Map: Meon Valley Map | Portsmouth, Gosport & Fareham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL3
Links: Jont Blog Post, Portsmouth, Portsmouth Historic Dockyard

To get close to the Semaphore Building you need to pay to enter the Historic Dockyard. It’s well worth visiting but I had been before a few years ago and didn’t need to go back. The tower is tall though and can be easily seen from outside of the Historic Dockyard.

 

Semaphore Station 2: The Square Tower

Condition: Well maintained and now used for hosting functions such as weddings, christenings and funerals.
Distance into route
: 1.7 km
Address: Broad St, Old Portsmouth, Portsmouth PO1 2ND
Coordinates: 50°47'22.0"N 1°06'23.0"W
Grid Reference: SZ 63076 99244
Elevation: 2m
Map:
Meon Valley Map | Portsmouth, Gosport & Fareham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL3
Links: Jont Blog Post, The Square Tower, Old Portsmouth

There seems to be some ambiguity about whether this was the first/last semaphore tower in the chain vs the one at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. For the purposes of this trip there was no need to decide as it’s easy to visit both.

 

Semaphore Station 3: Lumps Fort

Condition: Demolished after World War 1, now a Japanese Rose Garden and a Model Village
Distance into route
: 5.0 km
Address: Japanse Garden, Southsea, Portsmouth, Southsea PO4 9RU
Coordinates: 50°46'52.0"N 1°04'04.6"W
Grid Reference: SZ 65807 98359
Elevation: 5m
Map: Meon Valley Map | Portsmouth, Gosport & Fareham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL3
Links: Jont Blog Post, Lumps Fort, Southsea

 

Semaphore Station 4: Camp Down

Condition: Demolished, now a waste transfer facility.
Distance into route
: 18.1 km
Address: L&S Waste Management Limited, Portsdown Hill Road, Farlington, Redoubt PO6 1BW
Coordinates: 50°51'13.0"N 1°01'34.0"W
Grid Reference: SU 68648 06449
Elevation: 60m
Map: Meon Valley Map | Portsmouth, Gosport & Fareham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL3
Links: Jont Blog Post, Camp Down, Portsdown Hill


 

Semaphore Station 5: Compton Down

Condition: Building now a private house without a tower.
Distance into route
: 33.9 km
Address: Telegraph House, Telegraph Hill, Compton, Chichester, PO18 9QL
Coordinates: 50°55'40.0"N 0°53'12.0"W
Grid Reference: SU 78332 14861
Elevation: 161m
Map: Chichester Map | South Harting & Selsey | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL08
Links: Jont Blog Post, Compton Down, Compton



 

Semaphore Station 6: Beacon Hill

Condition: Intact, now a private house visible from the lane.
Distance into route
: 43.4 km
Address: Telegraph House, North Marden, Chichester, PO18 9JX
Coordinates: 50°57'03.0"N 0°50'55.0"W
Grid Reference: SU 80980 17445
Elevation: 190m
Map: Chichester Map | South Harting & Selsey | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL08
Links: Jont Blog Post, Beacon Hill, West Sussex







 

Semaphore Station 7: Older Hill (Holder Hill)

Condition: Building possibly still remains but within private property.
Distance into route
: 57.5 km
Address: Pine Hill House, Telegraph Hill, Midhurst, GU29 0BN
Coordinates: 51°01'50.0"N 0°45'34.0"W
Grid Reference: SU 87081 26429
Elevation: 203m
Map: Haslemere & Petersfield Map | Midhurst & Selborne | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL33
Links: Jont Blog Post, Woolbedding





 

Semaphore Station 8: Haste Hill

Condition: Demolished. Property became the Royal Naval Signals School then Whitwell Hatch Hotel and now private apartments.
Distance into route
: 69.1 km
Address: Whitwell Hatch, Scotland Lane, Haslemere, GU27 3AW
Coordinates: 51°04'51.0"N 0°42'17.0"W
Grid Reference: SU 90828 32065
Elevation: 206m
Map: Haslemere & Petersfield Map | Midhurst & Selborne | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL33
Links: Jont Blog Post, Haste Hill

 

Semaphore Station 9: Bannicle Hill

Condition: Demolished, likely replaced by Hill House.
Distance into route
: 77 km
Address: The Hill House, Church Lane, Witley, Godalming
Coordinates: 51°08'12.0"N 0°39'36.0"W
Grid Reference: SU 93847 38347
Elevation: 147m
Map: Haslemere & Petersfield Map | Midhurst & Selborne | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL33
Links: Jont Blog Post, Witley


Day 2: Godalming to The Admiralty, London

Start: A3100 Meadrow (road), Godalming, GU7 3HS
Finish: Admiralty House, Whitehall, London, SW1A 2AY
Distance: 62.3 km (38.7 miles)
Elevation change: + 435m / -458m (Net -23m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Wey-South Path, The Scholar’s Trail, North Downs Way, The Fox Way, Hogsmill Valley Walk, Thames Down Link, Beverley Brook Walk, Thames Path, Jubilee Walkway
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 2, 223, 4, Surrey Cycleway, C30, C3




 

Semaphore Station 10: Pewley Hill

Condition: Restored and now a listed building and a private house.
Distance into route (Day 2)
: 7 km / Full Route: 95 km
Address: Semaphore House, Pewley Hill, Guildford, GU1 3SN
Coordinates: 51°13'59.0"N 0°33'57.0"W
Grid Reference: TQ 00231 49197
Elevation: 112m
Map: Guildford & Farnham Map | Godalming & Farnborough | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 145
Links: Jont Blog Post, Pewley Hill, Semaphore House (Historic England), Semaphore House (British Listed Buildings)

 

Semaphore Station 11: Chatley Heath

Condition: Restored and now managed by the Landmark Trust.
Distance into route (Day 2)
: 22.6 km / Full Route: 110.6 km
Address: Pointers Road, Cobham, KT11 1PQ
Coordinates: 51°18'55.0"N 0°26'18.0"W
Grid Reference: TQ 08941 58501
Elevation: 55m
Map: Guildford & Farnham Map | Godalming & Farnborough | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 145
Links: Jont Blog Post, Chatley Heath, The Semaphore Tower (Landmark Trust),

 

Semaphore Station 12: Coopers Hill

Condition: Restored, now a private house.
Distance into route (Day 2)
: 35.5 km / Full Route: 124.3 km
Address: Semaphore House, Esher, KT10 0DX
Coordinates: 51°22'11.0"N 0°20'17.0"W
Grid Reference: TQ 15793 64726
Elevation: 49m
Map: London South Map | Westminster, Greenwich, Croydon, Esher & Twickenham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 161
Links: Jont Blog Post, Claygate, Esher

 

Semaphore Station 13: Coombe Warren

Condition: Demolished, replaced by a large private house called Telegraph Cottage.
Distance into route (Day 2)
: 45 km / Full Route: 133.8 km
Address: Telegraph Cottage, Warren Road, Kingston upon Thames, KT2 7LF
Coordinates: 51°25'15.0"N 0°16'05.0"W
Grid Reference: TQ 20523 70523
Elevation: 53m
Map: London South Map | Westminster, Greenwich, Croydon, Esher & Twickenham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 161
Links: Jont Blog Post, Coombe, Kingston upon Thames

 

Semaphore Station 14: Putney Heath

Condition: Demolished, presumably replaced by the Telegraph Pub
Distance into route (Day 2)
: 50 km / Full Route: 138.8 km
Address: The Telegraph, Putney Heath, London SW15 3TU
Coordinates: 51°26'55.0"N 0°13'34.0"W
Grid Reference: TQ 23359 73661
Elevation: 53m
Map: London South Map | Westminster, Greenwich, Croydon, Esher & Twickenham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 161
Links: Jont Blog Post, The Telegrpaph Pub,

 

Semaphore Station 15: Chelsea

Condition: Tower no longer there / presumed site of this tower.
Distance into route (Day 2)
: 57.8 km / Full Route: 146.6 km
Address: Royal Hospital Chelsea, Royal Hospital Road, London SW3 4SR
Coordinates: 51°29'16.0"N 0°09'31.0"W
Grid Reference: TQ 27938 78142
Elevation: 6m
Map: London South Map | Westminster, Greenwich, Croydon, Esher & Twickenham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 161
Links: Jont Blog Post, Royal Hospital Chelsea,

An alternative location of this telegraph station is the Duke of York's Headquarters, now the Saatchi Gallery. We dodged traffic on a very busy Sunday to visit both.

 

Semaphore Station 16: The Admiralty

Condition: Admiralty buildings still intact and in use by various government departments.
Distance into route (Day 2)
: 62.3 km / Full Route: 151.1 km
Address: Old Admiralty Building, London, SW1A 2AY
Coordinates: 51°30'22.0"N 0°07'43.0"W
Grid Reference: TQ 29979 80241
Elevation: 5m
Map: London South Map | Westminster, Greenwich, Croydon, Esher & Twickenham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 161
Links: Jont Blog Post, Admiralty buildings, Horseguards Parade, Whitehall

A good learning from us if you’re planning to end your ride at The Admiralty is to not do it just as the London Marathon is finishing. It was only a few days before our trip that I discovered the dates clashed. The London Marathon uses Horseguards Parade as a post-race meeting spot for family and friends so it’s really busy. We still managed to get to our finish spot though after a bit of navigation around blocked off streets.


The Full 2-Day Route


Elevations of each Semaphore Station in metres

Day 2 cycling route elevation map

Day 2 cycling route elevation map


UK National Parks, National Landscapes (AONB) and NSA High Points

If bagging all of the UK Historic and Present-Day County tops plus the Unitary Authorities isn’t enough for you, there’s also the high points of the National Parks, National Landscapes (AONBs) and National Scenic Areas (NSAs).

Contact me if you spot any mistakes and I’ll donate £1 to one of my supported causes for each correction made.


UK National Parks High Points

Of the 15 UK National Parks 10 have a high point that is also an Historic County Top. One other, Whernside is the high point of the Ceremonial County of North Yorkshire and was the high point of the Administrative County of the West Riding of Yorkshire. The highest National Park Peak that’s not also a County Top is Ben More (not to be confused with Ben More Assynt) in the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.

UK National Parks

  1. Cairngorms National Park (Scotland): Ben Macdui (1,309 metres).

  2. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park (Scotland): Ben More (1,174 metres).

  3. Snowdonia National Park (Wales): Snowdon / Yr Wyddfa (1085 metres).

  4. Lake District National Park (England): Scafell Pike (978 metres).

  5. Brecon Beacons National Park (Wales): Pen y Fan (886 metres).

  6. Northumberland National Park (England): The Cheviot (815 metres).

  7. Yorkshire Dales National Park (England): Whernside (736 metres).

  8. Peak District National Park (England): Kinder Scout (636 metres).

  9. Dartmoor National Park (England): High Willhays (621 metres).

  10. Pembrokeshire Coast National Park (Wales): Foel Cwmcerwyn (536 metres).

  11. Exmoor National Park (England): Dunkery Beacon (519 metres).

  12. North York Moors National Park (England): Urra Moor - Round Hill (454 metres).

  13. South Downs National Park (England): Black Down (280 metres).

  14. New Forest National Park (England): Pipers Wait (129 metres) or Telegraph Hill (127 metres).

  15. The Broads National Park (England): Strumpshaw Hill - South Slope (40 metres).


England, Wales and Northern Ireland National Landscapes High Points

National Parks and National Landscapes are both protected areas in the United Kingdom, but they have different designations and management structures. National Parks are designated by the UK government for their outstanding natural beauty, cultural heritage and recreational opportunities. They are managed by National Park Authorities and have specific planning policies to protect their landscapes and wildlife. On the other hand, National Landscapes are also designated by the government for their outstanding natural beauty but are managed by local authorities and partnerships. They have different planning policies compared to National Parks. National Parks tend to be more remote and wilder, while National Landscapes are often found close to populated areas and include cultural heritage and agricultural landscapes. Both National Parks and National Landscapes are intended to be enjoyed and appreciated by the public but the management, planning policies, and protection of the areas can differ.

National Landscapes were previously called Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) until On 22 November 2023.

There are 46 National Landscapes in the UK of which 16 are the county tops of the Historic Counties that they are in. St Boniface Down is the high point of both the Ceremonial County of the Isle of Wight and the Isle of Wight National Landscape.

There were 2 National Landscapes that I couldn’t find a high point for when researching this: Suffolk Coast and Heaths National Landscape and Lagan Valley National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Let me know if you know what these high points are and I can update the list.

  • North Pennines National Landscape (England). Cross Fell (893m).

  • Mourne Mountains National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Slieve Donard (850m).

  • Nidderdale National Landscape (England). Great Whernside (704m).

  • Sperrins National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Sawel Mountain (678m).

  • Ring of Gullion National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Slieve Gullion (576m).

  • Forest of Bowland National Landscape (England). Ward's Stone (561m).

  • Llŷn Peninsula National Landscape (Wales). Yr Eifl (561m).

  • Clwydian Range and Dee Valley National Landscape (Wales). Moel Famau (555m).

  • Antrim Coast and Glens National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Trostan (550m).

  • Shropshire Hills National Landscape (England). Brown Clee Hill (540m).

  • Malvern Hills National Landscape (England). Worcestershire Beacon (425m).

  • Cornwall National Landscape (England). Brown Willy (420m).

  • Binevenagh National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Binevenagh (385m).

  • Tamar Valley National Landscape (England). Kit Hill (334m).

  • Cotswolds National Landscape (England). Cleeve Common (330m).

  • Mendip Hills National Landscape (England). Beacon Batch (325m).

  • Blackdown Hills National Landscape (England). Staple Hill (315m).

  • Wye Valley National Landscape (England / Wales). Trellech Beacon (313m).

  • North Wessex Downs National Landscape (England). Walbury Hill (297m).

  • Surrey Hills National Landscape (England). Leith Hill (294m).

  • Dorset National Landscape (England). Lewesdon Hill (279m).

  • Cranborne Chase and the West Wiltshire Downs National Landscape (England). Win Green (277m).

  • North Devon Coast National Landscape (England). Berry Down near Combe Martin (269m).

  • Chiltern Hills National Landscape (England). Haddington Hill (267m).

  • Somerset - Quantock Hills National Landscape (England). Wills Neck (263m).

  • East Devon National Landscape (England). Gittisham Hill (259m).

  • Kent Downs National Landscape (England). Toy's Hill (257m).

  • Cannock Chase ANational Landscape NB (England). Castle Ring (242m).

  • High Weald National Landscape (England). Crowborough Beacon (242m).

  • Isle of Wight National Landscape (England). St Boniface Down (241m).

  • Anglesey National Landscape (Wales). Holyhead Mountain (220m).

  • South Devon National Landscape (England). Blackdown Camp (199m).

  • Gower Peninsula National Landscape (Wales). The Beacon at Rhossili Down (193m).

  • Howardian Hills National Landscape (England). Yearsley Cross (174m).

  • Lincolnshire Wolds National Landscape (England). Wolds Top / Normanby Hill (168m).

  • Arnside and Silverdale National Landscape (England). Warton Crag (163m).

  • Strangford and Lecale National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Scrabo Hill (161m).

  • Causeway Coast National Landscape (Northern Ireland). Carnduff Hill (114m).

  • Norfolk Coast National Landscape (England). Beacon Hill (105m).

  • Northumberland Coast National Landscape (England). South Hill (75m).

  • Dedham Vale National Landscape (England). Broom Hill (69m).

  • Solway Coast National Landscape (England). Pudding Pie Hill (56m).

  • Isles of Scilly National Landscape (England). Telegraph on St Mary’s (49m).

  • Chichester Harbour National Landscape (England). c. two locations with 9m spot height (9m).

To be verified … couldn’t find these originally but have been identified by Joel Adcock.

  • Suffolk Coast and Heaths National Landscape (England): Holbrook Park, (~44m)

  • Lagan Valley National Landscape (Northern Ireland). In garden of private property on Tullyard Rd, Lisburn BT27 5JN (164m)


Scottish NSA High Points

National Landscapes and National Scenic Areas (NSA) are both designations used in the United Kingdom to protect and promote areas of exceptional natural beauty. However, there are some key differences between the two. National Landscapes are designated by the UK government and are considered to be the most important landscapes in the country, with the highest level of protection afforded to them. NSAs, on the other hand, are designated by the Scottish government and, while they also offer protection to areas of exceptional natural beauty, they do not have the same level of legal protection as National Landscapes. Additionally, National Landscapes are managed by local authorities, while NSAs are managed by Scottish National Parks. Both National Landscapes and NSAs are intended to be enjoyed and appreciated by the public, but the management and protection of the areas can differ.

There are 40 National Scenic Areas (NSA) in Scotland, of which 8 are the county tops of the Historic Counties that they are in. There were 12 NSAs that I couldn’t find a high point for when researching this (scroll down to see). These are mostly in coastal areas without notable high points. Let me know if you know what these high points are and I can update the list.

  • Ben Nevis and Glen Coe NSA: Ben Nevis (1344m).

  • Cairngorm Mountains NSA: Ben Macdui (1309m).

  • Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA: Ben Lawers (1214m).

  • Glen Affric NSA: Càrn Eige (1183m).

  • Deeside and Lochnagar NSA: Lochnagar / Beinn Chìochan (1156m).

  • Glen Strathfarrar NSA: Sgùrr a' Choire Ghlais (1083m).

  • Kintail NSA: Sgurr Fhuaran (1068m).

  • Wester Ross NSA: An Teallach (1062m).

  • Knoydart NSA: Sgurr na Cìche (1040m).

  • Assynt-Coigach NSA: Ben More Assynt (998m).

  • Loch Lomond NSA: Ben Lomond (974m).

  • Cuillin Hills NSA: Sgùrr nan Gillean (964m).

  • North West Sutherland NSA: Foinaven (909m).

  • Loch Shiel NSA: Beinn Odhar Bheag (882m).

  • The Trossachs NSA: Ben Ledi (879m).

  • North Arran NSA: Goat Fell (873.5m).

  • Upper Tweeddale NSA: Broad Law (840m).

  • Small Isles NSA: Askival (812m).

  • South Lewis, Harris and North Uist NSA: Clisham (799m).

  • Jura NSA: Beinn an Òir (785m).

  • Trotternish NSA: The Storr (719m).

  • South Uist Machair NSA: Beinn Mhòr (620m).

  • Hoy and West Mainland NSA: Ward Hill (481m).

  • Knapdale NSA: Cruach Lusach (466m).

  • Scarba, Lunga and the Garvellachs NSA: Scarba (449m).

  • St Kilda NSA: Conachair (430m).

  • Eildon and Leaderfoot NSA: Eildon Hill (422m).

  • Lynn of Lorn NSA: Barr Mòr (127m).

To be verified … couldn’t find these originally but have been identified by Joel Adcock.

  • Dornoch Firth NSA: unnamed summit (387m)

  • East Stewartry Coast NSA: Bengairn (391m).

  • Fleet Valley NSA: Ben John (354m)

  • Kyle of Tongue NSA: Ben Hope (927m)

  • Kyles of Bute NSA: Meallan Riabhach (484m).

  • Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull NSA: Ben More (967m)

  • Loch Tummel NSA: Meall Tairneachan (787m)

  • Morar, Moidart and Ardnamurchan NSA: Meall nan Each (490m)

  • Nith Estuary NSA: Criffel (569m).

  • River Earn (Comrie to St. Fillans) NSA: Either slope of Beinn Fuath (~650 metres) or Mor Beinn (640m)

  • River Tay (Dunkeld) NSA: Creag Dhubh (498m)

  • Shetland NSA: The Sneug (418m)


More High Points

Telegraph Hill: New Forest National Park High Point*

Significance: New Forest National Park high Point
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Win Green (?) NHN = Win Green
Elevation: 127m
Date “climbed”: December 28th 2022
Coordinates: 50° 56' 57'' N, 1° 40' 37'' W
On route of: N/A
Map: New Forest Map | Southampton, Ringwood, Ferndown, Lymington, Christchurch & Bournemouth | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL22
Links: Wikipedia (New Forest), Peakbagger

*Telegraph Hill is, according to Peakbagger and some other sources, the highest point in the New Forest National Park. However, other sources list the high point as Pipers Wait which is 2 metres higher. I had only discovered Pipers Wait after having bagged Telegraph Hill, so a return visit will be needed at some point.

Bagging Telegraph Hill is pretty simple as the high ground is at and around the car park. The car park can be a good base for walk around the area. We were there on a rainy day just after Christmas so opted for a quick drive-by instead. Two nearby OS Trig Pillars, Pound Bottom and Bramshaw can be bagged in either a walk based from the Telegraph Hill car park or as quick drive-bys.

The name Telegraph Hill is due to a semaphore telegraph station built here in 1795. The station was one of the points where the admiralty communications were transmitted to London. This station was on the uncompleted London to Plymouth line.


New Forest Walks: Brockenhurst, Sway and the Disused Railway

Bridge over the disused railway.


Start: Brockenhurst Railway Station: Brockenhurst, SO42 7TW
Finish: Sway Railway Station: Sway, Lymington SO41 6BA
Distance: 10.6 km (6.6 Miles)
Elevation change: +79m / -101m. Net -22m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): Southampton and Dorchester Railway Path
Other Routes Touched (cycle): NCN 2
Pubs / Cafes on route: Several in Brockenhurst and Sway. None on the route
Map: New Forest Map | Southampton, Ringwood, Ferndown, Lymington, Christchurch & Bournemouth | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL22
Links: Brockenhurst, Southampton and Dorchester Railway, Sway


This is a flat(ish) point to point walk between Brockenhurst and Sway railway stations, taking in a stretch of the disused Southampton and Dorchester railway path. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

From Brockenhurst Station cross over the car park onto Avenue Road and follow it in a north-westerly direction to Sway Road. Take a left onto Sway Road then a right into a small car park to the left of the school. Continue through the car park onto a path that crosses Culverley Green to Burley Road. Take at left at Burley Road and follow it for 300 metres before taking a path on the left. Continue along this path with the stream on your left and farm buildings on your right. Continue following this path in a roughly south-westerly through Hinchslea Bog. We were there in winter after a lot of rain and the Bog was very ….boggy. Make sure you wear waterproof boots and are prepared to jump over a few streams and puddles.

At 3km from the start of the walk you’ll arrive at a crossing in the path. Take the left hand path which will take you to the start of the Southampton and Dorchester Railway path at the south-western corner of the golf course. Take a left and follow the railway path for ~3.5 km until the path ends and the old rail route becomes a road. From here you can either retrace your route along the railway path or take another path just to the south back to the edge of the woods near Oaken Caravan site. From here leave the railway path and follow a footpath in a south-easterly direction through the woods to Adlams Lane.

Follow Adlams Lane to the junction with Mead End Road, then take a left onto Mead End Road and follow it onto Station Road to reach Sway Station. From here you can catch a train back to Brockenhurst (1 stop).

Scroll down for information on the Old Station Tea Room on the site of the old Holmsley Station, further along the disused rail line.



Holmsley Railway Station - The Old Station Tea Room

The route described above covers the section of the old Southampton to Dorchester line that has been converted to a shared path for walking, cycling and riding. Further up the line to the west, on the section that’s now a road, you can find the old Holmsley Station, now converted into a Team Room. It’s a great place to stop whether you’re a train enthusiast or not. It’s been lovingly restored and is now a busy cafe.

Links:


More Disused Railway Posts


Serpent Trail 50k Ultra Marathon

Crossing the River Rother 2.5km to the finishing line at Petersfield


When: July 2nd 2022
Start
: A field in Riverhill Farm, Petworth
Finish: Petersfield Rugby Football Club, Penns Place, Petersfield, GU31 4EP
Distance: 50 km (31 miles)
Elevation change: +611m / -685m (Net -74m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Sussex Diamond Way, New Lipchis Way, Sussex Border Path
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP3749 - Hesworth (at 9.2km from the start)
Maps:
- Arundel & Pulborough Map | Worthing & Bognor Regis | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL10
- Haslemere & Petersfield Map | Midhurst & Selborne | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL33
Finish time: 7 hours 03 minutes
Links: Serpent Trail Guide, Serpent Trail Race, Fittleworth, Lavington Common National Trust, Midhurst, Petersfield


Following last summer’s brutal 100k on the Race To The Castle I was up for a shorter Ultra this year. It was also a good one to do with my friend Mark as his second Ultra after our Downs Link race in October.

The Serpent Trail is a 106k long distance path snaking through the greensand hills and heathland in the South Downs National Park. It’s north of the South Downs Way and connects Petersfield to Haslemere. The end point at Haslemere is also the start of the Greensand Way, a 174 km path across the North Downs to Kent. There was a 100k race option to cover the whole length of the Trail but 50k was definitely enough.

The 50k option started in a field near Petworth and joined the Serpent Trail after 2.5km. It was a dry day and there had been very little rain in the weeks leading up to it, so I managed to avoid the blisters and trench-foot of several of my previous Ultras. It was also hot too and I was feeling the effects of it from 12:00 to 14:00. I much prefer to run in the cold and by 14:00 the heat had taken my energy to go faster than a quick walk.

I thought that I was struggling due to the heat but ended up crossing the finish line at 7 hours and 3 minutes. That was 4 minutes slower than my previous 50k on the Chiltern Challenge in 2020. I decided to call it a tie though having wasted around 4 minutes getting off course on Ambersham Common having missed a very obvious signpost. Meanwhile Mark stormed it, finishing 14 minutes head of me with a time of 6 hours 49 minutes.

It was a great route with a bonus highlight of bagging a Trig Pillar that was right on the route at Hesworth Common. I still have the first half of the Trail to find a way to complete so I’m sure I’ll be back in the area soon.



The South Downs Rivers

Here’s a Tube-style map of the rivers of the South Downs National Park. Let me know if you spot any mistakes and I’ll donate £1 per correction to one of my causes. If you would like a printable PDF version, please Buy Me a Coffee and send me your e-mail via the Contact page. All copies for personal, not commercial use.



Note: the map shows rivers that start, end or pass through the South Downs National Park. There are some rivers that are not included as their source is south of the Park even though they flow into the English Channel or join another river on this map.


Other Posts for the South Downs


Tube-Style Maps


Downs Link Ultra Marathon
Crossing The Old Shoreham Toll Bridge on the last mile

Crossing The Old Shoreham Toll Bridge on the last mile


When: October 10th 2021
Start
: Church of St Martha-on-the-Hill, Halfpenny Lane, Guildford, GU4 8PZ
Finish: 3rd Shoreham Sea Scouts, Shoreham-by-Sea, BN43 5LT
Distance: 61.3 km (38.1 miles)
Elevation change: +456m / -622m (Net -166m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): North Downs Way, Tillingbourne At Work (SCC), Wey South Path, The Fox Way, Greensand Way, Sussex Border Path, West Sussex Literary Trail, South Downs Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 22, 223
Maps:
- OS Explorer Map (145) Guildford and Farnham
- OS Explorer OL34 Crawley & Horsham
- OS Explorer OL11 Brighton and Hove
Finish time: 8 hours 32 minutes
Links: Downs Link (Wikipedia), The Cranleigh Line, The Steyning Line, St Martha’s Hill, Surrey Hills AONB, Wey and Arun Canal, South Downs National Park


This was a return to familiar territory for Mark and I. We’d cycled the Downs Link in July and passed by St Martha’s church on the Hardest of Snails 10k shortly after. Running the whole of the 38 mile trail was an altogether bigger challenge. This was also Mark’s first Ultra and my first running one with a friend.

I had worked out a plan to get us through it at a steady pace with 30 minutes contingency for the 10 hour cut-off. I have a consistent pace for Ultras, but not knowing how Mark would get on I didn’t know whether we would be able to stick together or not.

The first 6.4k to the old railway path is steep and hilly. With a lot of runners packed tightly into narrow paths you have to go at the speed of the group. This was a comfortable pace for a short race but faster than I had planned for this. I couldn’t see Mark at all in this first section and was worried that I was getting a long way ahead. I needn’t have worried as he arrived at the first Aid Station 30 seconds behind me.

This was the pattern for the first half of the race. I was slightly ahead on each section and we met up at the Aid Stations. Somewhere between Henfield and Steyning we’d both slowed to a fast walk and kept together to the end. By the finish point at Shoreham-by-Sea we were a hour ahead of our planned time and well within the official cut-off.

This is billed as a great Ultra for first timers and I’d argue that it’s a great one all round. After the first 6.4k it’s mostly flat and on good ground. There’s a few long straight stretches that got a bit boring but made up for by the remains of the old stations along the way. See my post on the cycle trip for more about these.

Running and crossing the finishing line with a friend made it special for me. Well done Mark on joining the Ultra club and huge thanks for Mark’s family for supporting us along the way.


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Cycling The Downs Link
Old carriage at West Grinstead Station

Old carriage at West Grinstead Station


Start: St. Martha’s Hill Guildford Lane Car Park, Guildford Lane, Albury, Guildford, GU5 9BQ
Finish: Shoreham-by-Sea Station, Station Approach, Shoreham-by-Sea, BN43 5WX
Distance: 61 km (38 miles)
Elevation change: +344m / -457m (Net -113m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): North Downs Way, Tillingbourne At Work (SCC), Wey South Path, The Fox Way, Greensand Way, Sussex Border Path, West Sussex Literary Trail, South Downs Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 22, 223
Other routes touched (run): Downs Link Ultra
Pubs / Cafes on route:
Wild & Green Kitchen (Cranleigh), The Little Teahouse (Southwater), The Old Railway (Henfield) …and others
Maps:
- OS Explorer Map (145) Guildford and Farnham
- OS Explorer OL34 Crawley & Horsham
- OS Explorer OL11 Brighton and Hove
Links: Downs Link (Wikipedia), The Cranleigh Line, The Steyning Line, St Martha’s Hill, Surrey Hills AONB, Wey and Arun Canal, South Downs National Park


The Downs Link is a ~59k trail linking the North Downs Way at St. Martha’s Hill and the South Downs Way near Shoreham-by-Sea. Having recently completed the similarly sounding Thames Down Link, this was an obvious next trip. The first 6k is a hilly route through countryside around Blackheath and Chilworth. Once it connects to the Wey and Arun Canal it follows the route of the disused Cranleigh and Steyning Lines.

There’s no practical public transport connection between the start and the end (maybe they should build a train line to connect them?) … so we did a 2-car shuffle. Our total route was a bit longer than the actual Downs Link as we started from the Guildford Lane Car Park and finished at Shoreham-by-Sea station.

Navigation is very easy, especially once you’re on the old rail line. There were a couple of path junctions on the first 6k that we may have missed if we’d not had a GPX route to guide us.

There’s remains of the former stations along the route, some better preserved than others. West Grinstead is a particular highlight as there’s a British Rail Mark 1 coach on site, now used as an information centre. Others, like Partridge Green and Bramber have been completely demolished with no remaining evidence.

Don’t miss stopping at Rudgwick Bridge over the River Arun. The previous gradient up to Rudgwick Station was too steep for trains so the embankments were raised and an iron bridge was built on top of the brick arch. There’s a viewpoint just off the path where you can see the two layers. The logo on the Down Link signs along the route are based on this bridge.

If you’re an OS Trig Pillar bagger, you can find TP1686 - Broomhall Copse 5 minutes off the path at the intersection with the Sussex Border path.


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Downs Link Disused Stations

Pictures above: top row, left to right:

Pictures above: bottom row, left to right:

  • Southwater: Wikipedia. Replica sign only, road now covers site of original station.

  • West Grinstead: Wikipedia. Station building and cottages now in private hands. Platform remains with a British Rail Mark 1 coach on display.

  • Partridge Green: Wikipedia. Station buildings have been removed and replaced by housing and the Star Road Industrial Estate

  • Henfield: Wikipedia. Station demolished. Only evidence is Beechings and Station Road sign where station used to be.

  • Steyning: Wikipedia. Station demolished but old warehouse building remains, now converted into townhouses.

  • Bramber: Wikipedia. Station demolished and replaced by a roundabout (photo). No other evidence.



More Disused Railway Posts


Cycling The Prime Meridian
View to the north from the Greenwich Observatory: National Maritime Museum and Isle of Dogs in the background

View to the north from the Greenwich Observatory: National Maritime Museum and Isle of Dogs in the background


The Prime Meridian, also known as the Greenwich Meridian, is the line of longitude defined as 0°. It’s the line that divides East and West. It’s also a line that I asked myself one Christmas: “can that be cycled"?”. The answer is “no” as it’s a dead-straight line with buildings inconveniently built along it's path. You can cycle quite close to it though, so that’s what we did.

If you want to walk it, there’s a well-signed path called the Greenwich Meridian Trail. The Trail is also very well described in a series of 4 books by Graham and Hilda Heap. The cycle route that I designed stays as close to the Prime Meridian as possible but avoiding footpaths and opting for quieter country roads over busy main roads. Even if you’re cycling I highly recommend the Greenwich Meridian Trail books as they’re a great guide to the interesting things to see along the way.

Our cycle trip was 8 days in total, averaging 77k (48 miles) per day. That’s a gentler pace than our previous long distance trips such as LEJOG or Titanic Ireland. Although we could have gone further each day we opted for more coffee and cake stops. We also split it into 3 separate trips rather than a single end-to-end. This ended up taking us exactly a year to complete as Covid Lockdowns interrupted our plans and we had to fit the trips in where we could.

We based the start and end of each section based on access to train lines. Fortunately there’s good train connections along the route without significant diversions. The start at Peacehaven is close to Newhaven Station, although Brighton Station, 6.5 miles away, gives better connections to the North. For the end of Day 2 we wanted to get through London and Waltham Abbey is a natural stopping point. There’s a station nearby at Waltham Cross, or more north/south connections 12 miles west at Potters Bar.

For section 2, covering Days 3 and 4 we covered Waltham Abbey to Peterborough. This takes you quite a way off the Meridian but has a lot of north/south rail connections including to Potters Bar and Hull. Picking up from Peterborough on Day 5 for section 3, we cut diagonally north-east to rejoin the Meridian at Fleet. There’s not much to miss in the section between March and Fleet and the route takes in the main Meridian markers.

By the end of Day 6 the Meridian reaches the coast at Cleethorpes. From here the challenge is crossing the Humber Estuary to pick up the Meridian where it rejoins land at Sunk Island. The Greenwich Meridian Trail ends at Cleethorpes and a bus is the most practical means of picking up the route at Patringham on the northern side. For our cycle route we took a long diversion west to cross the Humber Bridge and return on the northern side via Hull. This gives you an unbroken cycle trip, but means that all of day 7 and half of day 8 are off the Meridian. It’s worth it for the crossing of the Humber Bridge and the Hull to Winestead Rail Trail.

The final point of the Prime Meridian at Sand Le Mere is quite different to the start at Peacehaven. There’s no monument to mark the end of your trip … at least not any more. This is one of the most eroded parts of the English coast and the previous marker is long gone. Instead we found a large lump of concrete that was more or less in the right position and decided it was the end point. From here it’s 28k ride back to Hull where you can get the train back home.

See the individual blog posts for each section for photos, maps and stats covering each day.

Links to each section:


The Complete Route

Two maps of the Prime Meridian. Above: Cycle route, each colour representing a different day of the trip. Right: tube-style map showing the cycle route, 0 degrees longitude and the Greenwich Meridian Trail

Two maps of the Prime Meridian. Above: Cycle route, each colour representing a different day of the trip. Right: tube-style map showing the cycle route, 0 degrees longitude and the Greenwich Meridian Trail


Race To The Castle Ultra Marathon
Bamburgh Castle. 1km from the Finish Line

Bamburgh Castle. 1km from the Finish Line


When: June 26th 2021
From: Kirkharle Courtyard, NE19 2PE
To:
Car Park, Radcliffe Road, Bamburgh, NE69 7AE
Distance
: 102.6 km (63.7 miles) based on my Garmin stats. Official distance = 100 km
Elevation Change: +1,141m / -1,591m. Net -450m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): St Oswolds Way, Hadrian’s Wall Path, Northumberland Coast Path
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 1
Maps:
- OS Explorer OL42 Kielder Water & Forest
- OS Explorer Map (325) Morpeth and Blyth
- OS Explorer Map 332 Alnwick and Amble, Craster and Whittingham
- OS Explorer Map (340) Holy Island and Bamburgh
Guidebook: St Oswald's Way and St Cuthbert's Way: With the Northumberland Coast Path (Cicerone)
Finish time: 17 hours 46 minutes
Links: St Oswolds Way, Northumberland National Park, Rothbury, River Coquet, Warkworth, Alnmouth, Craster, Seahouses, Bamburgh, Bamburgh Castle


I’d signed up for Race To The Castle as soon as tickets were open. This was the fourth and newest of the Threshold Trail series. Having done the other three, I needed to complete the set. It would take a while to get to the start line though. As with most 2020 events Covid pushed it back a year. So, 18 months after signing up, I was in the 08:30 start wave ready to run my second 100k ultra.

All the usual pre-race nerves were there. Although I do an ultra every year it has been five years since my last 100k. My preparation had gone well, but you never know how the day will go.

It was tough. Most of the elevation was in the first 35k, with a long slog up and down the Simonside Hills. By the end of that section my thighs had tightened up and my slow running become a fast walk. The weather didn’t help either. The whole day had low grey clouds with constant drizzle. I changed my socks for dry ones after the hills but nothing could stay dry for long.

The countryside was beautiful and likely much more so if it had been sunny. The route, mostly following St Oswald’s Way, took in forest, track, rivers, pretty villages and coastal paths. The coastal section would likely have been a highlight. By the time I got there is was getting dark so I didn’t see much of it. Although I always choose the 1 day non-stop option for these events, anyone doing the 2 day option would have seen the best of the coast.

My low point was at midnight on the National Trust land at Newton Links. It felt like high exposed moor but I only realised that it was next to the sea when I looked at the map the next day. It was completely dark, raining a lot and no other runners in sight. By now I’d already completed 88k and there was no stopping now. It still hurt though.

From the final pit stop at Beadnell I’d got some new motivation. Timea followed closely in the car and fed me cookies and Lucozade to keep up my energy. As Seahouses approached there was more streetlighting and people around. After Seahouses the route took an inland curve down a quiet country lane. From 97k Bamburgh Castle was in sight, lit up in the distance. I passed the castle at 99k with the final 1k along the coastal road to the finish line.

At 17 hours 46 minutes, I was 13 minutes off my 100k PB. I was more that happy with that though as this was much tougher than Race to the Stones. I now had the medal to complete the set of 4.

When you’re finishing an ultra on your own late at night it’s easy to think you’re the last to finish. There were still a lot of people coming in as we drove back to the hotel and even some when we got up the next morning. This has definitely proven that Race To The Stones wasn’t my 100k fluke. I’m not in a rush to do any more any time soon though. 50ks will do me for a while.

Thank you to the Threshold Crew for another very well organized event. Thanks especially for my awesome wife who is my personal support crew on the runs. Seeing her every 10k along the route and at the finish line is a big motivation. The cookies and pasties that she brings also help too :-)


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Some photos taken by Sportograf, all others Richard Gower and Timea Kristof.

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Start: Kirkharle Courtyard

 

End: Bamburgh Castle

 

Sugar Loaf
Trig Pillar at the top of Sugar Loaf

Trig Pillar at the top of Sugar Loaf


Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Waun Fach
Elevation: 596m
Date climbed: 6th May 2021
Coordinates: 51° 51' 46'' N, 3° 3' 28'' W
Route Start & Finish
: The Dragons Head pub, Llangenny, Crickhowell, NP8 1HD
Distance: 8.7 km (5.4 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 502m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Other pubs / Cafes on route: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP6243 - Sugar Loaf
Map: OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern area
Links: Wikipedia / Peakbagger / Hillbagging / Llangenny


This was the second of three trig-bagging walks in the Black Mountains on a spring trip to the Brecon Beacons. We were on the last day of good weather before a long stretch of rain so we picked this one based on recommendation from a friend who lives nearby.

Many people start their Sugar Loaf trip from Abergavenny and there’s lots of footpath options between the town and the summit. The approach from Llangeny is a great alternative, especially if you’re travelling there from the North or West.

From the Dragon’s Head car park, cross over the (river) Grwyne Fawr, taking a left on the road that runs parallel to the river. Take the first road on right and walk up the hill in a north-easterly direction. After ~1.25 km from the start continue along the footpath through a farm rather than keeping on the road that curves to the right. Once past the farm you’ll follow the edge of a field upwards towards a path T-junction. Take a right here heading south. This path will curve round the brow of a hill before heading north east up to the summit of Sugar Loaf.

On a clear day the views from the summit are excellent so it’s worth spending a bit of time there to take it all in. To return to the start, take the north-westerly path which curves round to the west. After 3km from the summit the path enters a farm where you’ll take a right onto the road. Soon after this take a left onto another road, another left at the end and continue to the junction where you’ll meet your earlier route up. Take a right here and retrace your steps to the bridge then the Dragons Head pub.


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Waun Fach and The Dragon's Back
Top of the Dragons Back

Top of the Dragons Back


Member of: Marilyn, Hewitt, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Pen y fan
Elevation: 811m
Date climbed: 5th May 2021
Coordinates: 51° 57' 46'' N, 3° 8' 35'' W
Route Start & Finish: The Dragons Back pub, Pengenffordd, Talgarth, Brecon, LD3 0EP
Distance: 11.7 km (7.3 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 574m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Other Pubs / Cafes on route: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP3548 - Gwynydd Bach
Map: OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern area
Links: Wikipedia / Peakbagger / Hillbagging


This was the second of three trig-bagging walks in the Black Mountains on a spring trip to the Brecon Beacons. It was my birthday and, having missed out on our normal big trip due to Covid, I wanted a special mountain. It may not be well known, a County Top or on many bucket lists, but as the highest peak in the Black Mountains, that would be enough significance for this year.

The car park next to the Dragon’s Back pub is an obvious place to start. The honesty box for the £2 charge gives warnings of tough-to-remove stickers to be stuck to windscreens if the charge is not paid. Despite the CCTV cameras above it, it’s unlikely they would know you’ve put money in there. After a year of not touching any cash I was pleasantly surprised to discover that we actually had some coins in the car.

Take the footpath that starts at the north end of the car park and follow it in a south-easterly direction for just over 3.5 km. Here you’ll reach a ridgeline with several different footpath interactions. Take the path that heads north, continuing to ascent, then curves to the east. Follow this path for approximately 2km to the summit of Waun Fach. There used to be an OS Trig Pillar here, but it’s been replaced by a low, flat stone with a metal OS roundel on it.

From the summit, take the northerly footpath, descending steadily for 1.5 km. At the path junction take the left hand path, heading south west, descending along the Dragons Back. We had very good visibility which gave us some amazing views across to the National Park to Pen y Fan and beyond. The highlight at the end of the trip is the path through the ruins of Castel Dinas. The steep ascent up to to the castle right at the end of the trip was a bit daunting though given we were low on energy at the time.

I’d been hesitant about doing this one having read and heard of tough navigation and boggy conditions at the top. The path at the summit seemed relatively new so have probably addressed the bogginess issue. I’d say that the navigation is no tougher than similar mountains in the area so you’ll be fine with the usual preparation, clothing and skills for the hills.


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Mynydd Llangorse
View to Llangorse Lake from the western side of Mynydd Llangorse

View to Llangorse Lake from the western side of Mynydd Llangorse


Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Mynydd Troed
Elevation: 515m
Date climbed: 4th May 2021
Coordinates: 51° 55' 57'' N, 3° 13' 27'' W
Route Start & Finish: Parking outside Llangorse Multi Activity Centre, Gilfach Farm, Llangorse, Brecon, LD3 7UH
Distance: 6.5 km (4.0 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 285m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Beacons Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
OS Trig Pillar: TP5020 - Mynydd Llangorse
Map: OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern area
Links: Wikipedia / Peakbagger / Hillbagging / Llangorse Lake, Llangors


This was the first of three trig-bagging walks in the Black Mountains on a spring trip to the Brecon Beacons. With a short distance and relatively low elevation this made for a nice warm-up for the longer treks of the next couple of days.

The parking area just outside of the Llangorse Activity Centre is an obvious place to start. Just inside the activity centre you can find the start of a footpath heading in a south-easterly direction across a field towards the hill. The trig pillar at the summit is only 1.5km from the Activity Centre, giving you the option of a very short out-and-back. If you prefer a longer circular walk, there’s several options based on a few paths that intersect at the summit. We continued east for ~500 metres, then taking a well marked track south to the Beacons Way.

When you meet the Beacons Way, don’t follow it but take the westerly path that makes a steady descent from the hill. This path will curve round to the hill and reconnect with the path you followed at the start and back to the Activity Centre.

The cafe at Llangorse lake, a short drive from the Activity Centre, is a great place for a rest, a coffee and a cake after the walk.


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The Brecon Beacons Rivers

Here’s a Tube-style map of the rivers of the Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brycheiniog in Welsh). Let me know if you spot any mistakes and I’ll donate £1 per correction to one of my causes. If you would like a printable PDF version, please Buy Me a Coffee and send me your e-mail via the Contact page. All copies for personal, not commercial use.


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Note: the map shows rivers that start, end or pass through the Brecon Beacons National Park. There are some rivers such as the Rhondda, Ogmore and Ely that are not included as their source is south of the Park even though they flow into the Bristol Channel or join another river on this map.


Other Posts for the Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brycheiniog)


Tube-style Maps


Twmpa & Rhos Dirion Circular Walk
View to Pen y Fan from Rhos Dirion

View to Pen y Fan from Rhos Dirion


Start & Finish: Gospel Pass Car Park, Capel-y-ffin, Abergavenny, NP7 7NP
Distance: 13 km (8.1 miles)
Elevation change: + / - 376m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 42
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
Map: OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern area
Links: Gospel Pass, Vale of Ewyas

Rhos Dirion:

Member of: None
Parent Peak: Waun Fach
Elevation: 713m
Date climbed: 24th December 2020
Coordinates: 51° 59' 36'' N, 3° 8' 59'' W
OS Trig Pillar: TP5658 - Rhos Dirion
Links: Wikipedia / Peakbagger

Twmpa:

Member of: None
Parent Peak: Waun Fach
Elevation: 690m
Date climbed: 24th December 2020
Coordinates: 52° 2' 7'' N, 3° 6' 17'' W
OS Trig Pillar: None
Links: Wikipedia / Peakbagger


In the third of three winter walks in the Vale of Ewyas we did a circular trek to the summits of Twmpa and Rhos Dirion.

From the free parking at Gospel Pass take the westerly path up to the summit of Twmpa, also called Lord Hereford’s Knob. Trig Baggers will be disappointed as there’s no pillar at the top. By continuing west for another 1.8 km you’ll reach the patriotically painted pillar at the top of Rhos Dirion. We were there on a cold but clear winter’s day and had a great view of Pen y Fan in the distance. After bagging Rho Dirion, retrace your steps down to the col between the two summits. Rather than climb back up to Twmpa, take a right to head in a south-easterly direction down the valley. Navigation is easy following a well worn path tracing the course of Nant Bwch.

The valley path turns into a farm track then a single-track road to Capel-y-ffin. Rather than stick to the road follow the path that curves round the side of the nose of the mountain half way up its elevation. On the southern-most point you’ll get a great view over Capel-y-ffin and the southern part of the Vale of Ewas.

Continue on the mountain pass as it curves anti-clockwise around the mountain. You’ll now be heading north back towards the Gospel Pass. After ~2 km the path will join the valley road which you can follow back to the car park.


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Llanthony Priory and Rhiw Arw Trig Pillar Circular Walk
Misty descent to Llanthony Priory

Misty descent to Llanthony Priory


Start & Finish: Llanthony Priory Hotel, Llanthony, Abergavenny, NP7 7NN
Distance: 8.2 km (5.1 miles)
Elevation change: + / - 364m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Offa’s Dyke Path, Beacons Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None, although NCN 42 passes by the road entrance to Llanthony Priory
Pubs / Cafes on route: Coffee Shop at Llanthony Priory. The Half Moon Pub is near the Priory but not on the route
Trig Pillar: TP5648 - Rhiw Arw
Map: OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern area
Links: Llanthony, Llanthony Priory, River Honddu, Offa’s Dyke, Vale of Ewyas


In the second of three winter walks in the Vale of Ewyas we did a circular trek to the Rhiw Arw Trig Pillar.

From the free car parking at Llanthony Priory, take the Beacons way clockwise around the Priory. Leave the Beacons Way at the northern side of the Priory outer wall and follow the footpath signed to Hatterall Ridge as it curves round to the north-west. Keeping to this track you’ll reach the Offa’s Dyke National Trail approximately 2 km from the Priory. Take a right onto the National Trail, heading south-east. Follow Offa’s Dyke for ~2.5 km until you reach the Rhiw Arw Trig Pillar.

After the Trig Pillar continue south-east along Offa’s Dyke for just under 1 km and descend back to Llanthony Priory via The Beacons Way.


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North Daren Trig Pillar from Capel-y-ffin Out-and-Back Walk
View towards Llanthony

View towards Llanthony


Start & Finish: Church of St. Mary the Virgin, Capel-y-ffin, Abergavenny, NP7 7NP
Distance: 8.8 km (5.5 miles)
Elevation change: + / - 325m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Offa’s Dyke Path
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 42
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
Trig Pillar: TP5154 - North Daren
Map: OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern area
Links: Capel-y-ffin, River Honddu, Offa’s Dyke, Vale of Ewyas


In the first of three winter walks in the Vale of Ewyas we did an out-and-back trek to the North Daren Trig Pillar.

From Capel-y-ffin village centre, take the track to the right of St. Mary’s Chapel. Continue for ~1 km passing over the River Honddu, the Baptist church on the left and a farm on the right. When you reach the footpath sign for Offa’s Dyke, cross over the stile on the left of the track. From here follow the path at it climbs and zig zags up to to National Trail. The path uphill path was very obvious when we were there in winter but can be obscured by bracken in the summer.

A cairn and a stone sign marks the junction of the uphill path and Offa’s Dyke. Turn right (south-east) onto the National Trail and continue for ~1.6 km until you reach the Trig Pillar. For the return trip, retrace your steps back to the bottom of the hill where the path meets the track. Here you can take a right and follow the track back to Capel-y-ffin or take a left then a footpath shortly on the right. Here you can follow a path across a field, over a wooden bridge and onto the valley road. Take a right when you get to the road to return to Capel-y-ffin.


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