The idea for this trip came from a short walk that I did a few years ago in Surrey called Discover Downside. Half way through the walk we came across the Chatley Heath Semphore Tower, the best preserved of a series of towers that formed a line between London and Portsmouth in the 1800s. As I was reading the information board a new adventure started forming. I didn’t have to say anything I could almost hear my wife’s eyes rolling and wondering “what’s he up to now?”.
As described on the Chatley Heath information board: “In 1792, Frenchman Claude Chappe invented the Semaphore using moveable arms on a T-shaped mast. The British Initially stuck with their existing shutter or ball signalling systems even though they were less effective. In 1814 the Admiralty prematurely decommissioned their existing signalling stations. After Napoleon’s escape from Elba and the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, the governament decided to reinstate a signal line from London to Portsmouth Dockyard. They chose to use the semaphore system invested by Sir Home Riggs Popham, as the most advanced of the day.”
“The Chatley Heath Tower was the fifth station in the 75 mile long line, which started on the roof of the Admiraly in Whitehall. It was to have been the junction for a further line to Plymouth, but this was never completed. […] The invention of the electric telegraph in 1839 meant the end for the mechanical semaphore. New telegraph lines were laid alongside the railways and messages travelled instantly down the wires. In 1847 the semaphore line was decommissioned and the mast dismantled.”
Over the next year the back-of-my-mind potential trip became a fully-planned weekend cycle trip for spring 2023. It turned out to be a weekend adventure with a Friday evening drive down to Portsmouth, a long Saturday ride to Godalming and a shorter section on the Sunday before heading back home. The original plan was to take the bikes down to Portsmouth by train but some organizational faffing meant that we left it too late to book and there we no bike spaces available. Instead we did a one-way van rental which was slightly more expensive than the trains would have been but got us there more quickly with less hassle.
The choice of doing the trip from Portsmouth to London rather than the other way around was mostly based on getting in a new (for me) parkrun at Southsea on the Saturday morning. Arriving in London on Sunday afternoon also gave us a shorter journey home.
I need to credit the excellent account of walking the Semaphore Line in the Jont.org.uk blog. This blog was invaluable in the planning process and provides more detail on the stations and route between them than I have covered here. In my post below I’ve covered some key details of the semaphore stations it’s not intended to be a turn-by-turn route guide. I’ll be happy to share my GPX files for the 2 days in return for a virtual coffee.
